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ZZR250 - problem putting into N

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Rolkus, Jul 8, 2011.

  1. Heyo,

    I've been having a problem with my ZZR over the last week or so.

    I ride it to work every day, only about 35km to work but jump on the freeway to get there.

    Anyhow, I cross a few traffic light intersection with LONG light waits, so I generally put the bike into Neutral while waiting for the light to change.

    However, recently, its really, and I mean REALLY hard to flick it up to Neutral. I've tried increasing the rev's a bit but it still tough to flick it up. It seems when the engine is a bit colder, I can click it up easily, but when the engine is a bit warm, it doesn't like it at all.

    I'm curious if anyone has encountered a problem like this before? And/or what options are available to fix this up?
  2. my bike's a pig sometimes too, i found partly releasing the clutch, just til it pulls on the rear wheel, then disengaging again helps. also, given i often hurt my hands at work, i sometimes just kill the engine while stationary
  3. What you're describing is typically what happens if you don't shift down as you come to a stop Ie. have to shift down a few gears whilst stationary then try to go into N.

    Whether thats the cause or not, working the clutch as described above will usually let you shift into N.
  4. Make sure your clutch is properly adjusted, I had the same problem and a bit of clutch lever adjustment sorted it out.
  5. There are a couple of things that could be, but it sounds like the clutch is dragging a little bit. If you adjust it out - away from you a bit, that might help. Make sure you pull the clutch lever all the way back to the bar. If the bike starts well, you might just shut it off and sit up - then grab the clutch and thumb the button when the light goes green, leave it in 1st. I do that on the 14 all the time, but it's not something I'd do if the starting was a bit iffy.

    Some bikes are pigs of things to get into neutral. Some are all too easy, and seem to find neutral in the middle of the 1 -> 2 change at every opportunity. That's worse.
  6. Check what kneeddragon notes, but some bikes are just like that. Also I run thinner oil in winter to help this. The factory standard is usually the lightest I go.

    But you will likely find you just need to get used to slipping it into neutral as you roll to a stop
  7. Since I've had my ZZR, I always seem to have trouble getting it into first from N. I can only do this after I've released the clutch and squeezed again, then tapping into 1st. I also have trouble getting into 3rd from 2nd. I really have to kick it, which causes me to wobble- kinda dangerous huh?! Does anyone have the same problems with the ZZR250's?
  8. @ pommydave ...

    ... ummm ...

    Reading your post and thinking about it, I'm starting to wonder if ... Do you know an experienced rider? Perhaps one of us could pop over and go for a quick once around the block on your pride and joy to check, because I'm beginning to wonder whether we have a rider skills issue, or a slight adjustment issue, or something seriously wrong with the bike, ... and I'm not sure what questions I can ask over the internet to pin it down.

    Do you have a flesh and blood mentor / instructor?
  9. Pommydave, I think elsewhere you said you were coming to Saturday Pracice in StKilda tomorrow? If so ask me there and I can take a look.

    As has been said some bikes are just like this, but always check both your clutch adjustment and whether or not it's time for an oil change. If these aren't right it will make gear changes harder.
  10. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm heading down to the practice today so hopefully we can figure out if it's the bike or if it's my 'amazing' skills on the bike :)
  11. This reads like your gear lever is set too high (and experience).
  12. Thanks for the replies.

    I release the clutch a bit, and it still doesn't pop up, but it does almost stall... Tried giving the throttle a bit, and still no go -- I've resorted to turning it off when stopping, but that's a bit hard at the traffic lights.
  13. Sat on pommydave's bike yesterday.

    Cable adjustment seems OK, If anything a bit tight but no clutch slip and loosening off is only likely to make the selectin problem worse.

    It certainly goes from neutral to first with a resounding clunk. Tried holding the clutch in for a while before I selected but it still clunked. What I thought stranger was it would not go from N to 2nd at all while sitting stationary, even easing the clutch out a little. As we had been talking and I didn't have on helmet or gloves I didn't try a proper ride but getting it rolling in the car park, I could select all gears, up and down.

    Don't really know the bike so no idea if their gear boxes are normally like that. Bike only has 11000 on it so way to early to suspect a stuffed gear box and he believes it was only seerviced 1000 km ago so I would have thought oil will still be clean.

    I have suggested him keeping the pressure on the lever while he lets the clutch back out.

    To me it feels like he is not getting full clutch operation. Does anyone know if these bikes have a further clutch adjustment other than the cable adjustment?
  14. I noticed a similar problem on my R1 yesterday after not riding it for a couple of months.

    Hard to find neutral and a big clunk from neutral to first.

    My clutch is slipping a bit (on the rear stand in 1st, clutch fully in, the back wheel starts turning).

    I'll probably just take it in and get 60 Degrees to have a look.
  15. Probably just gunk gone a bit sticky on the plates from lack of use. Should improve with use and/or oil change

    This is common and provided it doesn't continue to spin when you try to stop it by either the lightest application of brake or even just holding the wheel, I don't see it as a problem
  16. should have more adjustment on the engine end of the cable
    my cbr does that too. never really thought about fixing it, doesn't cause any problems
  17. Neutral to 1st with a big clack is pretty normal, and the bigger the bike, the bigger the clack. A clutch which is sticking a little due to cold oil will make it worse, and so will a high idle speed.
    Some bikes allow N -> 2nd while stopped - some don't. It doesn't automatically mean something's wrong.
    Rear wheel up, neutral, or 1st with the clutch pulled, engine running, the back wheel will turn. It's normal. Pretty much all bikes do it.

    GreyBM - How was the position of his gear lever? Would it be better if it was down a fraction lower? Could be you have big feet and he doesn't. Does it have a linkage, or just a lever on a shaft?
  18. .... I had probs with my old 250 (especially with 1st going into into neutral instead of 2nd) until I got the gear lever altered. Was a bit of trial and error (moving the lever) but it eventually felt right and the gears came good.

    .. yep! the change now into 1st from neutral with the 600 is much more of a clack than from the 250 and when I ride with the other half, I can certainly hear his R1 or ZZR 1100 clunk even more!
  19. The engine end of the cable is still a cable adjustment. Some bikes have a further adjustment sometimes completely internal and sometimes internal but accessible via a plate. The cable adjustment seemed OK but if there is a further mechanism it may not be giving sufficient throw.

    Nope I have delicate little footsies. Lever position seemed OK to me. Didn't think to look whether the lever was straight on a spline or had extra linkages, Will check it out next Sat practice. Bottom line is that I was able to select gears when rolling slowly so probably all is good. Just never had a box where I couldn't select a gear before, even if you needed to coax it to select.
  20. ahhh sorry, i missed the cable adjustment part

    zzr250 teardown parts list i dunno what i'm looking for, maybe someone else will find it