Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

ZZR250 noob

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by tonee, Apr 11, 2009.

  1. I just got a ZZR250 and love it!
    Its got car il in at the moment and i have no idea which nut to unscew.
    Also i dnt have the manual so is it possible to get it anywhere online? Ive searched the forum but couldnt find a ZZR250 one.
    What tire pressure should i pump? I dont want it to be too hard and slide off, or too soft and cause fuel consuming drag.

    What are the dials 1-4 on the brakes and clutch levers?


  2. There's two 17mm bolts on the bottom of the engine for draining the oil, there's one in the middle of the engine that holds the oil filter in and another slightly forward and off to the side to drain the oil.

    The dials on your levers are most likely reach adjusters. give 'em a twist and see what happens :LOL: If you can't work out what they do just reset them where they were

    Can't help you with the manual for a zzr but the gpx manual will get you by for engine work
  3. huh?

    edit: oh! car oil... 1040w car oil should be ok

    congrats on the new bike ride safe
  4. Regular car will not do!!

    If the clutch drives at all it hasn't got car oil in it. It may have 10W 40 in it but fingers crossed its not car oil.

    Be careful removing the oil filter plate as its easy to damage the O ring inside and the last one I bought with the filter was the wrong size but was able to use the old one.

  5. Odd because the aftermarket oil filter that I can still find for my bike has a Honda type o-ring that fits like shit on the kawasaki :|

    Yer, car oil isn't what you want. Many bikes use a wet clutch and therefore the oils are suited for that function as well. Bike motors are a nasty place for oil to live.
  6. the indicator was empty from th previous owner, so i had to fill it up with car oil to get it home(this was on easter friday and no shops were open to buy motorbike oil).

    this is why i can still shift gears without using the clutch?

    Is there a picture of the nuts? because theres on thats in the centre of a circular radius which is kind of near the centre, and the other is more to the left.
  7. #7 Seany, Apr 12, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
  8. sweet thanks guys!
    il change the oil tomorow but i need to go back to the shop to swap it, i purchased 15W-40 and it wasnt in the manual.

    i bought a rego holder today but i had trouble looking for a place to put it. where are you suppose to display it anyway? do you have to? I've got it under the seat at the moment
  9. You must display them. A lot of people attach them to the bolt the pillion pegs are on etc? Just find a bolt somewhere a little inconspicuous and stick it on... Swingarm, under your number plate etc. Make sure it won't impede movement etc though of course.
  10. 15w-40 should be fine as long as its semi synth and proper motorcycle oil.

    Where the chainguard screws to the swingarm is where I used to put it on my zzr.
  11. im not sure if its synthetic or not but its the Castrol Active 4T 15w-40.

    By reading the manual and watching the youtube clip, i am now confused which nut. Theres only 2 nuts down there to choose, and both the clip and manual says opposite to each other...=/
    So which one is it?
  12. OK really testing my memory, it was 2 bikes ago..

    On the left side of the bike, looking under the bike it'll be the front left one(left of the oil filter circle).. yeh I think soo.. If you put it on the centrestand and get some light under there you'll be able to see the right one, this is for the oil drain hole.

    Then there is the nut in the middle of the circle, let that one out too and the oil filter will drop down.

    edit: oh and the numbers on the brake/clutch lever, thats the small silver disc on the handlebars, I tend to have mine on max settings so there is as little moosh in the feel as possible.
  13. The drain bolt is the 17mm bolt that's NOT in the middle of the star/circle thing. This guide should get you through your first change, although you don't have to remove the filter if your just putting fresh oil in it's recommended since a decent bit of oil wil drain out of it.

    What you want to do is warm the bike up with a good ride so that the oil and any crud in it will flow easily. When you get back put the bike on its center stand while you get everything ready (wrench/ratchet, oil and drip-tray is all you really need). When your ready chuck your drip-tray under your bike, remove the filler cap and pull the DRAIN bolt, being carefull not to rock the bike off of it's stand (I find a foot jammed against the passenger peg works well), then let the oil drain for 10ish minutes. If you've decided to drop the filter out I find the easiest way is undo the bolt about half way to let the oil drain from the chamber before removing the filter completly to tip the oil out of it/replace it. Leave everything to drain long enough to down a beverage of your choice before you bolt it back up. Fill 'er up with oil to the top mark on the sight glass, remove the drip-tray (it's a bad idea to ride over it, ask me how I know :shock: ), make sure all the bolts/caps/etc are back in place and then ride off into the sunset :grin:

    It's a good idea with a second hand bike to do a couple of oil changes about 500km apart and put a new filter in to help clean the engine of a nastys the PO left in there, it's an extra good idea to do a couple a short changes if your also putting a different oil in. The oil you have will run fine BTW

    Good luck with it and remember that an oil change is only the first step on a slippery slope to chain lubing and brake pad changing :p
  14. Do you really need a torque whench to do the bugger back up? I used to do my car without one... never had a problem.
  15. Not really, if you've swung a wrench before and have good idea what 'tight, but not too tight' feels like. I suspect alot of torque values are more for public liability, etc than for an engineering reason
  16. Thanks guys,

    Ive successfully changed my oil today. =]

    Ive just got a good pair of 2nd hand gloves but im having trouble figuring out how to clean the inside.

    I cannot invert it due to hard knuckle protectors.
    How do you guys do it?
  17. i went riding today as ive got my license :D

    I kept on getting blown at 70km/hr+ and it freaks me out!

    Is it possible to fall? or will the bike just move to the side and thats it.
  18. Welcome to riding 250's :) grip the tank with your knees and let the bike move. if you're to stiff in the arms you'll be all over the road but its worse on smaller bikes.

    I have never cleaned the inside of a glove. What's in it that needs to come out?
  19. Ive been gripping and leaning low to decrease the surface area.

    well i bought 2nd hand gloves, i just want to clean out the other guy's sweat.