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ZXR-250 Lost keys - How to bypass ignition barrel?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Gonadman2, Jun 21, 2008.

  1. Hey guys, my keys fell out of my ignition on the bike the other night (don't ask!) and I don't have a spare as I haven't had it that long. I was able to wheel it to a caravan park of all places, where we knew some people staying there. Unfortunately due to poor series of events I was unable to secure a trailer or ute to transport it back to my place, so I took my trusty service manual and a bag of tools over there today to try and nut out how to bypass the ignition barrel wiring.

    Long story short, I succeeded and managed to start the bike. I turned it off after I successfully started it so that I could organise the trip home. After I tried to restart it, it wouldn't fire.

    What I have done so far:
    Wired the White +ve wire to the Br (Junction box supplies) and Gy (igniter) wires. This worked first time around and the bike started. My question to you all is, does the igniter have a resistor or some kind of voltage reduction in the ignition barrel, or does it use the full 12V? It seems that the igniter has had it, or something along those lines...



    Any help much appreciated.
     
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  2. I dont know anything about bypassing the wiring sorry but get a locksmith to come out and make new keys for it, as you will need keys wont you? It took the locksmith about 15mins to make 3 sets of keys for my bike without a set to copy from. Cost about $160, but i didn't have to pay as it was covered in my RACQ package.
     
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  3. if you've connected the master +ve with the master ign, then you've drained your battery by leaving the headlight on. was the headlight on? Try push staring it?


    Or you could return the bike to it's rightful owner... :p
     
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  4. Definately an option, I am researching it now. Only problem is, we only have the one locksmith up here and he's quite busy from what I understand. Cheer's for the tip though, I wasn't aware that this was even possible.

    Hilarious.

    I've organised a trailer so I can get it back to my place this arvo. I went back yesterday just to check that I hadn't flooded it, and it seems to kick over and just not firing!

    I really am starting to think that the Ignitor didn't like the 12V I was feeding it for some reason.

    And no, I didn't leave the wires connected, obviously that would flatten the battery. But if I give power to the J-Box and Ignitor then I see no reason why it shouldn't start.

    Meh, the fun and games start tonight when I strip it down.
     
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  5. In most cases, any resisors would be contained within the ignitor unit- saves accidental fryings and build cost. In the schematics, is there an additional +IGN line to the control unit? What is the situation leading up to the first starting? Extended crank times?
    If it was an extended crank and you killed the engine immediately, the plugs may not have had a chance to purge excess fuel.
    If the connection between BAT+ and IGN is poor, then you will get a weak or no spark ignitor side (depending if IGN is a relay driver or the ignitor current runs direct through the ignition barrel)

    And cheer up. :wink:
     
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  6. Apologies if I came across as a sourpuss, my sarcastic response was aimed at your amusing little diddy. Don't worry I got a giggle out of it. :grin:

    There are 2 x BAT+ at the Ignition switch, but only one wire down to the ignitor module from that switch. I will post up the electrical drawings tonight. Cheer's for the tips - much appreciated!
     
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  7. Did you get anywhere with it last night? May be best to check if the coils are getting 12V spikes where the low-voltage wires plug in as you are trying to start it. I'm going to assume that it is a two-coiled wasted spark ignition system?
     
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  8. Unfortunately not - I left my tools at work.

    I did ring the local locksmith today and they said that they won't do vehicles... So I rang another locksmith in Karratha and they said that they could track down a key based on the numbers stamped on the barrel apparently. So tomorrow if I remember to bring my damn tools home, will be the day that I might be able to start this.
     
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  9. Further investigation last night revealed a distinct lack of spark.

    What would be causing this? I have put Bat+ on the ignitor supply from the key, what else does it need?

    Does the ignitor have protection?
     
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  10. check to see you are recieving pulses of +12v at the coils. From the spark plugs, the HT leads end at a step-up transformer, or the "coils". Measure the low voltage side of the transformer. If it doesn't register a voltage (I'd be assuming about 6-7Volts [Approximated voltage] on a DC multimeter) , work up the line to the ignitor/CDI Unit. If the leads do not register, check the other side (upstream side) of the CDI. Did you end up getting those schematics?

    If there is sufficient voltage coil-side, then I'd assume the plugs are properly fouled, so scrubbing with a toothbrush in a solvent solution may be in order. To check the spark plugs, pull the cap off a mower or chainsaw etc, plug the suspect plug in, ground and crank. if no spark, test the HT leads. Pull any old (known working) sparkplug out, hook it up (nipple type can (generally) be unscrewed to get a stud connection), and see if it works.
     
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  11. And it should be hard to kill the ignitor - if the headlight and running lights are attached to the same circuit, then I would lead to believe that the relatively low initial resistances would serve to dissapate any significant current spike from shorting the bat+ and ign (would you agree?)

    PPS - without seeing a schematic for the model it'd be pretty hard to tell if there is an additional IGN line you need to short.
     
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