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ZX6RR chain and sprockets brands

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' at netrider.net.au started by sparz, Jan 2, 2011.

  1. Hello,

    I have a 2005 zx636. Im looking at changing the gearing to -1 front +2 back. I've been checking out some american sites and im not quite sure which brands i should be looking at.

    I'm looking at this combo of AFAM/D.I.D
    http://tinyurl.com/zx6rrchain




    Would they be of better quality than say some Driven sprockets/EK chain? Like these...
    http://tinyurl.com/zx6rrchain2


    EDIT: Just read that the Driven sprockets are aluminium. Im guessing i'd be better off going for steel for more durability?

    Gotta say I'd really love a coloured chain and rear sprocket, but if i can buy better quality for the same price, i will.

    Any other recommendations for websites or other brands i could be looking at will be appreciated
     
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  2. I have a supersprox stealth (IIRC) rear sprocket on mine. Aluminium centre with steel teeth. Best of both worlds.

    I haven't had any problems with my RK chain. I vaguely remember hearing that the top of the range DID chain is lighter than the competitors, but this sacrifices some durability.
     
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  3. I've always used JT sprockets and never had a problem. They're a reputable company, have good products, and don't charge the earth. I wouldn't go aluminum unless you're very set on the coloured trick options or are competing with said bike in a race.

    By the way, why go one less on the front and 2 up on the back? I understand if you just want a bit more 'go' out of the bike, but that combo will bump up your 6th gear cruising revs by 800rpm or so. Anyway, it'll be a hoot to ride with the combo so I figure that why you're doing it.

    I'd go steel JT sprockets and a DID o-ring chain. I've used both extensively on numerous bikes and never had a problem with either. Get a chain oiler as well if you don't have one already, it'll make your investment last a lot longer.

    Cheers - boingk
     
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  4. Well i figure i dont even use 5th or 6th gear when riding around town, so why not? :D Doing 100km/hr in 6th gear my bike is sitting at about 5500 rpm. an extra 800-1000rpm is nothin!
     
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  5. Fair enough, but you do realise its normal to not use 5th and 6th around town, right? What are your normal riding habits like? If theres much freeway I'd avoid it to be honest.

    Anyway its up to you, but personally I reckon theres not a lot of point in it as the 636's are reasonably short (for a sportsbike) with their gearing - they'll top out at 230 or so at redline. The revised sprocket combo will give you around 210 and a bit more poke through each gear.

    Cheers - boingk
     
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  6. I basically ride very aggressively :p Take off at the lights with every chance i get. Almost all of my riding is around town or up to the mountains. The only time would be 15 mins on the highway to get to uni.

    The 636 will do 270km/hr indicated on the tacho.

    Hmmm... my sprockets and chain are fine atm (bike has only done 17,000kms)... but i kinda wanna buy this combo now! haha
     
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  7. I say if you want to do it & have the funds go for it.

    By the way where is the best prices found online to order jt sprockets and did chains from?
     
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  8. The EK chain is a bit stronger than the DID.
    Both those kits are for alluminium sprockets.
    I've fitted a 520 chain with an Afam alluminium sprocket (CBR1000rr)and I'm pretty happy with the wear. It's done 10,000km and still looks pretty good. Should go at least another 10,000 km.
    If you are after longer wear, Driven make a steel sprocket called a superlight. It's said to be just a bit heavier than an alluminium one. When you see it you will understand why it can be so light.
    Superbike Supply had a special on the MVZX chain with Driven superlight sprockets for $US145, don't know if it's still going. Think it was $20 more for colours other than gold.
    I usually get 40,000+ km out of my chains. If I hadn't just put this on on 10,000 km ago I would have gone for that deal.
     
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  9. in what gear? mine does 299 indicated, then the revs keep rising. on a private road of course.

    im thinking of adding a few teeth to the rear aswell. let me know how you go
     
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  10. Thanks for the advice....So, this combo looks the goods?

    http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/101...ored-chain-steel-sprocket-kit---kawasaki.html

    Edit: Also, what specific tool do i need to install the chain?
     
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  11. Thats pretty much the same kit I brought for mine. Just a note on the coloured EK chains, they come with a clip link only, and the rivet link is extra. I brought a EK screw link because I broke my chain rivet tool trying to rivet the rivet link. ( write up on the screw link http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/..._p__33__hl__+ek++chain__fromsearch__1#entry33 there is also a write up on the klr650 forums. I've PDF'ed it because you need to log in to see it, PM if you want a copy )

    With tools if you go for a rivet link, I would go for a good quality chain breaker/rivet tool. I brought a M.C.S ( or something ) tool and it couldn't rivet the link i got. I also had to buy a large nut for the rear axle, and I decided to use a torque wrench for the axle nut as well.
     
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  12. Yeah, I think that would be a good combo. I think the sprocket is AFAM, branded Drive Systems in USA.

    If you don't think you will be installing a lot of chains, the cheapest way to go would be to cut the old ckain off with a grinder and go with the screw on rivits. They are an EK thing and are around $25.

    Another alternative is cut the chain off with a grinder. press the new rivet plate on with a set of vice grips, may need a spacer to press them on to the right depth and then flare the end of the solid EK pin with a punch.

    If you read up on the screw type of master link you will see the screws are only to press the plate on. They are then removed, the exess pin snaped off with a pair of pliers and an o ring fitted.
    Not sure how the o ring is supposed to hold anything, maybe it's just and interferance fit and the o ring is for ?????
     
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  13. Always grind the head of the rivet you intend to push out - most tools will not be able to break the hardened steel.

    Clip links aren't a problem - I've done tens of thousands of kilometers on bikes with clip links and have never had a problem. Make sure the closed end of the clip is facing the direction of chain travel and you'll be fine.

    Cheers - boingk

    EDIT: Buy a breaker that looks like this one. This is me working on my XR600R and that tool is a bloody great item - solid as hell and very usable. You can also replace the pushing pin if you break it for some reason.

    chain2.
     
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