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ZX2R won't start. Help needed!

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by jm, Oct 22, 2009.

  1. After about 2 weeks off it, my '88 zx2r doesn't want to start. I've already tried charging the battery, I also checked the spark plugs (they were fine). Kill switch is not on, and there is plenty of fuel.

    When I try to start it it does one of two things:



    It won't crank at all, but there is a buzzing sound coming from near the battery, this happens about 50% of the time, and has been doing so for about a month. The rest of the time it cranks but won't start.

    If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear from you!
     
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  2. If the sound coming from near the battery sounds a bit like a "dat,dat,dat" clicking sound I'm betting your battery is stuffed.

    If you have someone to help you try push starting the thing and it should start. Then try and charge your battery again whack a multimeter over it to check voltage should be about 13volts. If your bike starts with the battery let it run for a bit then measure the voltage again whilst running to see if the bike is charging the battery. Turn it off and measure the battery voltage yet again to see if it has dropped from initial reading.

    Just my 2 cents & good luck
     
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  3. sorry to hijack or anything,

    but are you able to select 2nd gear while the engine is off?
    cause i can't on my zxr250c :S
     
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  4. Could be the regulator rectifier.
     
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  5. I can't on mine either which is a 250A, tried push starting in 1st but had no luck. Think I'll just load it up on to a trailer and take it to a mechanic.
     
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  6. yeah it's weird huh, engine has to be running, and bike HAS to be moving to engage 2nd :S

    i've push started in 1st though, have to sprint.

    check your plugs? if it cranks and doesn't start, i'd check of carbon'ed up plugs.
    ( had that before )
    it makes a buzzing noise and won't crank, when the battery to flat on mine.

    after you start it, check the charging voltage on the batter, make sure it's above 13v at 4k rpm+

    if the plugs look dirty - replace them
    else - test for spark: take a plug out, earth it, crank engine
    check each plug for spark
    if there is spark move to fuel.
    if there is no spark, check leads, and coil packs.

    on my carbs i found there to be heaps of crap within the fuel bowl filters, after clearing this out, it made the bike run better,
    i also cured my 'dead spot' from 6k to 8k rpm.
    i diagnosed it to be a lean spot, and turned out my idle screws 1/2 turn on each. ( after playing with needle heights and stuff to no avail )
     
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  7. +1

    The exact same thing happened to me. Get a multimeter, and put it on the battery. Mine was reading ~13 volts when it was just sitting there, push the starter and it dropped to ~4 and clicked.

    But I think thats not the problem. It sounds completley broken. You'll never get more than $100 for it. So you should sell it to me...:deal:


    Oh, and the not being able to get 2nd thing is normal for alot of Kawas. its just the positive neutral finder in the gearbox. Perfectly normal.
     
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  8. Thanks for the advice!

    How much do multimeters cost? I assume you can get them from autobahn/super cheap auto etc?

    As for selling it to you, jirf88 - all yours once I get off my restrictions next August:p
     
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  9. I had to push start my bike in 1st yesterday - I got it on a slight hill and started it rolling in nuetral, then quickly clicked into 1st and let go of the clutch and she fired up easy. My bike (Kawa ZZR250) doesnt like 2nd gear when its not moving and in 1st there is a lot of 'friction' from the engine
     
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  10. Multimeters you can pay from $10s of dollars to thousands of dollars. It is a useful thing to have in your tool kit, a cheapy special will cost you less than $20. **** Smith carry them, (Clicky Linky) Supercheap Auto has similar for similar price (Clicky Linky)
     
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