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yes, another "tell me what bike to get" thread

Discussion in 'Adventure/Enduro' started by Mallaby, Jul 3, 2009.

  1. I want trail/enduro/dirt bike for off road only with rec reg

    rode small dirties when I was a kid (some 15 to 20 years ago) and have been on the road for nearly two years, on second bike, yamy thundercat 600

    I am a big bloke, 110 kg, 6 foot 3, looong legs

    was thinking originally drz 400e but rode a mates on the road and it seemed to lack grunt cos wheelies weren't high or long enough and pick up was gay (having said that i'll be taking it out on the dirt in a cppl weeks to try, thanks barut!)

    have looked at yamy wr400, 426 etc

    budget is second hand around 4k give or take 1k depending on how it suits me

    maintenance level is a factor but i'm good in the shed and keen to get in deep (is this sounding like a lavalife profile yet?)

    wont be doing motox but loved the hard stuff when i had a fourby and like a bit of mountain biking so hill climbing, single tracks, fast dirt, jumps and a shitload of mud will be a goer

    would the drz have trouble with my weight?
    would the yamy be stupidly high strung?
    would the yamy be significantly less reliable or more high maintenance? (no need to split hairs)
    should i consider any other options?
    am I annoyingly asking too many questions? (ok that one was sarcasm. . . deal with it :)

    also, can anyone consisely and accurately state where a rec regged bike can and can't ride?

    thanks guys
  2. VTR250! :grin:
  3. you git nibs!

    yes the thundercat rides good dirt to but i think it'll struggle where i want to go
  4. mmm i hear ya dont worry. in that case, no idea what you'd want, other than something with knobbies :D
  5. I'd wait and see what happens when you take the DRZ off road, they are a good bike to start on and are low maintinance.
    Husabergs are good, strong and reliable if maintained correctly, id have a look at one of those also. All enduro bikes so far as ive been told are easier to maintain in hours oil every 10, air filter every ride, valve checks every 20-50 depending on the bike, rings and crank inspection when compression drops.
  6. Any formed road (not closed tracks, signed, barricaded or otherwise) as long as its not sealed Its not hard to find on the VicRoads site. Officially you need to transport the bike to your ride destination.

    As for your main question I'm thinking a good XR400 in your price range. You'll need to be a good rider to out ride one if you're honest.
  7. Hi, I'm also in the same boat. 6'8" tall, around 110kg.

    Currently riding an 82 DR 500. Hate kickstarting with a passion. Turning 40 this year. Wife says for my mid-life crisis I can buy a new bike.

    Don't want an enduro bike that I have to service every ride. So that almost rules out everyone but Suzuki. Been thinking about a DRZ400e or a DR650. Also thinking about a Yamaha XT660.

    At the moment my riding is bush with some road, but in the future will include a bit of Adventure touring. Mate of mine just bought an R1200 GS Adventure, but I don't have 30K for a toy.

    I know the two Suzukis put out similar power, but what about torque? I know the 650 is heavier, but I imagine that it'll be a bit steadier on-road. Whatever I get it'll have a bit spent on setting up the suspension, tyres etc.

    I'd appreciate comments / thoughts of anyone out there.
  8. If Suzuki's have a problem, it's the suspension :cry:

    Maybe a bit more European bias...see if you can find a BMW xChallenge, Husky TE610 or KTM 625/640

    Oh and welcome
  9. [/quote]

    If Suzuki's have a problem, it's the suspension :cry:

    Maybe a bit more European bias...see if you can find a BMW xChallenge, Husky TE610 or KTM 625/640

    Oh and welcome[/quote]

    Cheers, I can tell you now that those bikes you mention won't be on the shopping list. 10K would be more than I'd be allowed, so those bikes are way out of my league! Perhaps 2nd hand, but a new bike has that element of appeal too!
  10. yeah with my weight its the suspension that worries me.

    is it just that they're conventional forks or some other prob?
  11. and where the smeg on the net can i get full specs with perfomance details for the bikes? its the easiest way for me to judge a high strung race engine from a reliable, predictable one

    That's called "your technique sucks". The DRZe motor is a great one for a long day of riding. They are a tallish and heavy bike by modern standards though. :LOL:

    The WR426 motors were bonkers. The WR400s less so, but not by much. They both have a fairly violent side to them if ridden badly! In the hands of a good rider they were always very very fast, but would reduce beginners or tired riders to a trembling puddle of slop in hard terrain. I have ridden a couple and believe it or not, the later WR450 motor was far gentler to ride because it had less of a light-switch like power delivery. I never got the hang of kick starting them either because of my long legs, meaning I was pretty much folded up to swing the lever. They were also one of those bikes that had a starting routine that needed to be followed else they would not play.

    That's pretty much DRZ or WR $. Or an older KTM if you are a masochist.

    Perhaps you should wear a KTM tshirt for this lavalife profile photo.

    Admittedly there are some who can ride them well in snotty conditions, but for most people that eliminates one of the bigger 600+ dual sports as the ideal bike. The 600s are either big, old and heavy with a road bias, or light, expensive and MENTAL.


    They can be. They are not very nice at all on the bitumen, but you are looking at rec-reg so that matters not.

    No. They are actually VERY reliable. Even these days the Yamahas are one of the few bikes that can be relied upon to make it to 10,000km without having to rebuild the top end. People complained about shim and bucket complexity etc when they were new, but they so seldom need valve adjustments that it's a non issue. Compare that to a modern CRF250 that needs non-genuine valves to make it run much more than 1,000km between rebuilds, or the KTM 250 four strokes that often need a new non-genuine piston within 40hrs of use.

    That's a hard one. The older KTMs are starting to fall into that price bracket. However, the suspension can be hard to set up properly because of the PDS shock, and the handling is nervous with the stock triple clamps. Being a bigger person I found them hard to get along with because of the headshake and the lack of anything to hang on to! They are one of the bikes most likely to just sheet themselves spontaneously. There were dodgy cam bearings in a particular age range. Lots of delicate alloy fasteners. Because the earlier RFS models can be getting on to 8-9 years old, there's no way to know how they have been treated and they respond to neglect far less favourably than an XR, DRZ or WR. I would just say no... :LOL:

    I would ABSOLUTELY say no to an older Husky TE or Husaberg. They were race bikes, engineered to be thrashed and rebuilt often.

    Dunno if you want a smoker?

    Am I giving too many answers?

    also, can anyone consisely and accurately state where a rec regged bike can and can't ride?

    As a rule, anything with bitumen is out. Highways out. Built up areas out. Have a look at the Vicroads site.
  13. #13 MacManMike, Jul 5, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    BTW - I have a few older dirt bike mags that might be of interest, with reviews of most of the 400 enduro bikes from 1999 to about 2003.

    I agree with most of what is said here:


    Fush 'n chups. :LOL:

    I'm told the carby DOES make a difference too between the DRZ400S and the E models too.
  14. re mac man:

    thanks smeg head! you gonna get out on the trails with me if i get one?
  15. DING-DING? . . . No.

    and your answers are great dude thanks for the vid too
  16. I'll be there.

    My mind is dirtier than it has been for the entirety of the last 5 years.
  17. It's pretty much down to the two Suzukis. The Yamaha is a bit heavier and a bit gruntier than the DR650, but is also heaps more.

    I've found sites in the US where I can get DR650 parts, such as heavier springs, for about half the cost of local. Big DR with springs sorted for under $8.5K is tempting. Then a Staintune system, touring tank, Corbin seat....where do you stop??

    The DRZ is obviously lighter, a bit less HP and torque, but perhaps not as much 'all purpose' as the venerable DR.

    I'm now getting prices from dealers. And anxiously waiting for the tax refund...
  18. Have ridden two DRZ's - IMHO, not great 100+kmh bikes - they have their supporters, but agree the DR would make a better "dual sport" unless more tight trail riding than open road
  19. definitely more trail riding, I'm only gonna rec reg it cos i got my road bike for tours/daytrips etc, plus the cars reg, two rego's is enough for me so the dirty is for dirt fun only so prob wont bother with the 650.

    anyone know what has changed on the drz400e since it started in 2000? (budget rules out new bike) did it still have elec start and that sweet dash back then? are the performance specs the same? what would more than likely be completely munted by now?