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Year of manufacture/year of sale?

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by Timmy32, Jan 5, 2013.

  1. If a bike was manufactured in July(07) 2010, would it be a 2010 model or 2011?

  2. Ah just a guess but I'll say 2010. (Is this a trick question?)
  3. It would depend on the make.
    Kawasaki release new models in October, Suzuki in September....
    When it comes to selling it will get the lowest years...ie 2010.
    Model type and improvements come into it as well, as if it changed a lot ... is it a new model or an update
  4. My understanding is, if two different models of the same bike were sold in the same year, then the newer model gets the later model year designation. For instance, one bike was built in 6/2010, but the same bike was replaced by an updated model built in, say 7/2010, the updated model would be referred to as 2011 model while the one being replaced 2010.

    However, if the bike didn't change, then it's all marketing. Doesn't matter which month it was built, it would either be late 2010 or early 2010, but not 2011 (unless there's a facelift or major update, in which case they would be referred to as either 2010 or 2011, just to differentiate the two).
  5. Check the owners manual.
  6. If its a learners bike they dont reeally change anyway so it doesnt matter.
  7. Its a brand new yamaha, the dealer is saying it is a 2011 model. But to me if it was made in July of 2010 it is a 2010 model. Ok thanks for your help everyone.
  8. My bike was built 10/05, it was sold as an 06, but the rego label says it's an 07.. :bored:
  9. Look at the VIN. The model year, different to anything any other piece of paper says, will be the 8 digit back in most manufactures. So a VIN of SALLAAA139A415567, would be a 2009 model car (bonus points if you can tell me more info on this car).

    2001 to 2009 are easy to pick. Other than that it is a letter thing. 2010 is A, 2011 is B and so on. And 1999 is a pain, up to Q's or something (not bringing out the reference sheets now).
  10. Made in Solihull. (I was silly enough to own multiple LR's at one stage)
    • Like Like x 1
  11. i know there has been several threads on this old chestnut.....compliance plate V first registered date

    it just hurts to know that i let my guard down for a moment, and got caught out.

    fri night, my son and i got a date with 2 'close to idental' 250 ninja to check out. one blue aqua, one red.....both imaculate.

    he is hinting towards the blue one. i left work work early and saw both of them briefly with my wife. told danny both worth checking out. he still wants the blue one.

    body - check (tiny blemish)
    purchase and service records - check
    oil - check (the amount of so called 'recently serviced' bikes with pitch black oil!!!)
    tyres - check
    brakes - check
    test ride - check

    busted our balls with the price but for a 2010 (rego papers state 2010) it was worth it. while my son and he were siging documents and money exchanging......i forgot to check the compliance plate!!!

    sept 2009. i was owned.......

    the bike is great to ride, but what is it with the bloody revs. it screams at only 100kph. anyway the boy hasnt stopped grinning, he loves it, so its all good.

    watch out people. check compliance plates before you hand over your cash.
  12. That's not a fail. The date on the compliance plate is not the year model, it's the compliance date. The bike you bought has 2009 compliance and most likely IS a 2010 model.
    If you really want to know what the bike is, put the VIM though a decoder online.

    I'd expect a 250 Ninja to be doing 7000-7250 at 100Kph. That's normal.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. My Strom is one of those confusing items. It's compliance plated as 2006, but it's a 2007 model K7. The '06 model had single plug heads while the '07 (mine) and later has twin plug heads (and other changes).
  14. On 250 Ninja date wouldn't make a difference anyway. Maybe a very small amount on resale, but the spec should be the same.

    Still it's a good reminder for some, particularly if your model had a significant upgrade that year.

    Check your front and rear sprocket sizes. But keep in mind a 250 is never going to be relaxed at 100 and these small twins spin up quite readily.
  15. I think my 12 ninja sat on around 9k revs at just over 100, apparently I must miss the noise because other half comes out all bleary eyed when I get home on the striple saying I'm too noisy.
  16. If I remember rightly these things red line at 18000 or more RPM, which kind of suggests they're a high revving beast.

    A more important thing for you to be sure of, when buying a new car or bike, is the warranty starts from when the vehicle is registered not picked up. I've known a couple of people who bought a new car at the end of the month but weren't going to pick it up until the middle of the next month, but to make their quota the dealer registered it at the end of the month. It wasn't a problem until 3 years later when they tried to make a warranty claim and were denied. I won't mention which brand or dealer.
  17. My bike is a 00 and 01 compliant . I dunno which to use for insurance.
  18. don't think so about the 18k rpm
  19. yeah, he's probably thinking of on of the 250/4s, not the 250 twin.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  20. That would be it. So what is the red line of the 250 twin