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Featured xvs650 3rd gear selection problem

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Darrin Hodges, May 10, 2015.

  1. Noticed today a couple of times I couldn't select 3rd gear, pull in the clutch and move the lever up but it just didn't want to go into 3rd. Only seems to have started today. The clutch lever looks like it could use a small adjustment, the gap is just on 10MM as apposed to 10~15MM specifed in the manual. It only has 3.3K on the clock. Anybody noticed anything like this?

  2. Check your oil level.
    I'm guessing it was changed at 1K km. What was used ?
    Is the clutch operating fully and properly ?

    If everything looks OK, apart from the slightly reduced freeplay, then I'd take it for a test ride.
    Nice, slow & deliberate gear changes.
    If 3rd still feels different to the others then I'd be taking to your dealer for a check up.
  3. I have found that if I actuate the clutch then change gears I often get a clunk and sometimes it doesn't select properly. If I preload the shifter lightly then actuate the clutch it changes smoothly and no problems.
  4. #5 Darrin Hodges, May 11, 2015
    Last edited: May 11, 2015
    I brought it 2nd hand with 2047k on the clock. The oil looks & smells ok but i don't know if the 1k service was done or what was used. Its a 2011 model the the previous owner apparently didnt use much. I cant tell for sure what the oil level is; either its been overfilled or the sight glass is dirty/foggy. I was going riding this w/e but now might be doing an oil change. Is there a way of cleaning the sight glass?
  5. This sounds like it might be a shift segment or shift fork problem. The shift segment determines how far the shift shaft rotates with a press of the gear lever and the forks determine how far the gears are moved. BUT a clutch which drags can make it seem like there is a problem in this area. Oil containing an JASO MA classification should be used in motorbikes with wet clutches. Any oil containing friction modifiers needs to be avoided like the plague. Oils can often make a startling difference to the way a gearbox works.

    Do the oil change after warming the engine Look at the sight glass when the engine is empty of oil to see whether it is actually cloudy/dirty.

    Dealer attention is not so silly. See what the right oil does first.

    For a bike of that age and kays, one would not expect a cloudy sight glass. Possibly overfilled. Have someone tilt the bike way over and see if you can see a level emerge. Overfilling with oil is to be avoided. To clean, (and I don't know how yours is put together), often involves removing the case so the glass can be cleaned from the inside. This is often an expensive and/or time consuming mission, depending on the bike. I've never seen a sight glass that can be removed from the outside.

    There is a known defect (and a recall) affecting the shift segment, but your model is not named in the models affected.
    • Like Like x 2
  6. Will adjust the clutch and test tonight. I brought some Belray v-twin mineral motor oil to try as well. Thanks.
  7. Watch the sight glass as you drain the oil. You should see a definite change, and I wouldn't expect that the sight glass would be cloudy after only 3K.
    It should be nice and clear to see through. It's possible that it's never had an oil change though.
    Did you get the warranty book with the bike ? Was the first service stamped ?
  8. Ok, leaned it right over the other side and the sight glass is clean and clear, it appears the oil is a tad overfilled and definitely needs a change. There was no service history, it seems it just sat in somebody's garage a long time between uses. It's still under manufacturers warranty, so if it still plays up after changing oil and adjust clutch lever, its a trip back to the dealer. Thanks for all your replies, cheers.
  9. Ok, changed the oil:


    As you can see, the old oil was pretty putrid. Adjusted the clutch slightly and went for a 40K ride around the 'burbs and the issue did not reoccur. Changes did feel a bit more notchy, might have re-adjust the clutch but it could just be sandpapered-arse syndrome as well. I'll run it with the new oil for a bit then do another change including a new filter.
  10. If those kilos are correct and not tampered with the bike should look and work like new. Might be that the guy never did the first oil change if he had that little interest in it. Even then I'm surprised at the mileage that the oil was that filthy you couldn't see through the site glass.
  11. The oil burnt and degraded during the first 1k will always be much worse than you will see after any other normal oil change.
    The oil window on the XVS650's is very low and it's really easy to put an extra 50ml in which means that you can't see any change on the glass until you're leaned over 10 or 15 degrees. It almost makes checking the oil a 2 person job.
    One to lean the bike, and one to watch the oil window.
    I used to check mine regularly and if you couldn't see anything in the window (except black) then all was well.

    Darrin HodgesDarrin Hodges
    Good to hear that changing the oil might have fixed the issue. Certainly improved it anyway.
    Did you put a new filter in ?

    Give it another 1000 then change it all again. Some swear by changes every 3000, but IMO every 5000 is enough.
  12. I didn't do the filter this time, I figure I'd let this change clean up the system a bit then do another change with the filter after a little while. I put it up on a stand to I can easily see the level in the sight glass, its a bit of a pest but makes it easy to get the level right.
  13. It would have been a good idea. Now you have whatever contaminated oil residue in the filter as a portion of the oil in your engine. Make the next oil change early. Its a good practice to change the oil filter at each oil change.

    You really want to get rid of any particulates which might be in the oil which didn't drain from the engine. (a filter won't capture them all) You want your filter to be as free flowing as it can be. Changing the filter with each oil change facilitates this.

    A first oil change in a motorbike, in a new engine or after a rebuild, usually sees a larger quantity of tiny particulates - visible as glistening in the dark oil as is is drained or poured into a storage container and the filter will carry a heavy load from what it has trapped. You really don't want to be circulating oil through your bike which contains this fine metal dust. A magnetic plug is a good idea. It can give you an idea if something is amiss, if the number of filings on it increases from change to change. These make it very clear that your filter does not capture all of the metal out of the oil.
  14. The notchy changes could be due to the viscosity of the new oil being too thick. If it is a 20w-50 you put in, try a 10w-40 and it may help the notchiness.

    I think the "V-twin oils" are mainly designed for big American v-twins which benefit from a higher viscosity, not the jap v-twins.

    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. I did put in 20/50, will try the 10/40 on the next change, cheers