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xvs 650 v star classic friction point

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Raid, Feb 2, 2012.

  1. Is it normal for this bike to have the clutch almost all the way out to hit friction point? Can this be adjusted so the clutch is not so far out before it bites?

  2. Hey Raid,

    If you peel back the rubber seal that covers the end of the cable that joins to the clutch lever, you will be able to adjust it there by turning the fitting.

    There isn't much adjustment, but I was able to get enough out of it to make it release sooner.

  3. when I had mine I found the same 'issue' and it comes down to preference of what feels comfy for you, so easy to adjust [when you know how] enjoy :)
  4. I think it will stop the stalling and will be a much safer ride, and im able to control the bike more....last night i kept stalling it, as the friction point had the clutch almost all the way out....with the end result of when i finally let go of the clutch and the extra throttle so i didnt stall......the freaking thing lurching forward straight into the rubbish bins.....being a newbie didnt ****ing help my cause.....
  5. I prefer it closer to the grip....that's the thing, i don't know how to adjust it....will just get a mechanic to do it me thinks....
  6. nah do it yourself, theres a 'sleeve' at the handke ebd that has a thread [where the cable comes up to the handle' just unsxrew that till you get the desired effect. mechanic wont charge you for it though..takes seconds to do
  7. It's a common issue with these bikes and I agree, the friction point on mine needed to be moved in closer for my preference.
    I have put both the Seritec mod and the Clevver on my bike and am happy.

    The problem with just adjusting it yourself on the XVS650 is that to get it to the right spot, the clutch lever flops a bit with the lack of tension. The Seritec mod is just a spring and a metal tube that goes on the engine end of the clutch cable, and puts pressure on to stop the flopping around. The Clevver is a replacement clutch lever, with the hole that the end of the clutch cable sits in relocated to a better spot for pivoting, with moves the friction point, makes it a little bigger (or seems to) and makes it easier to control. Maybe the easier bit makes it seem bigger.

    Neither takes a mechanical genius and both come with instructions. The Seritec mod was more fiddly to put on, and it would be quicker with a second set of hands - a kitchen fork is the best bit of gear to help pull the cable back, but getting the bit on the end into the right spot is hard when you have one hand on the cable and one pulling a fork. I'd say the Clevver was the better mod, but I find I still do a manual adjustment every now and then. When I was doing a lot of slow speed/friction point work to get my Ps, I found the friction point moved when the engine heated up a lot, so I'd do a quick adjust on the run, so to speak.
  8. I have the same issue with my 07 Custom. The bite point is pretty crap. You do get used to it, but I'd still rather have better control but doing one or both of the mods. I'm also not mechanically minded at all, but after going through the instructions on the respective sites, it seems like anyone could do it.

    I'm also considering upgrading to aftermarket clutch springs which I've been told may help. A quick watch of some how to's on YouTube has boosted my confidence in this also being a DIY job.
  9. I had the friction point adjusted by a mechanic....but it changed back to where it was, and i don't want to have to keep adjusting that shit all the time....might have to install that Clevver shit....but i iwll have get someone to do it....
  10. The clevver increases the size of the bite point, or at least seems to through the lever config. The Seritec allows you to adjust the bite point closer to your grip and pulls up the slack so the clutch is not flapping around. Doing both will leave you with a larger bite point which is closer to the grip.
  11. So i can do both?.....might just do that...will leave it to the mechanic to put them in though.....did you do it yourself?....im pretty much retarded with all things mechanical!
  12. #14 Tone2, Feb 7, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
    I did both. It isn't hard. The Clevver is the easiest - 10 or 15 mins, they provide pictures step-by-step.
  13. #15 Raid, Feb 8, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 24, 2015
    Oh ok, i will do both then....what tools do i need?
  14. The Seritec - a shifter or 12mm spanner (to undo the nuts at the engine end of the clutch cable), maybe some long nosed pliers to help get the cable out of the housing, and a kitchen fork to help pull the cable when you're putting it back together. A second person would make this quicker too. Have a look at instuctions here from Seritec or somewhere like here (better pictures) from someone who did it.

    The Clevver - a shifter/spanner/socket to undo the nut at the clutch end. Have a look here.