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Would you consider a bike that has gone for a "slide"?

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' started by Samboss260, Feb 15, 2013.

  1. As the title states, would you consider purchasing a bike that has gone for a slide?

    From the pics, most of the cosmetic damage has been fixed, except one, which attracted my attention and the seller has admitted the slide upon questioning. Apparently it only went for a slide and didn't hit anything.

    Walk away or bargain like mad?
  2. Get a capable mechanic to inspect the frame. If it is out of shape at all the bike is rooted. But otherwise you may just pick up a nice bargain.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Walk away or bargain like mad?

    You do have a couple of other oprtions- 1) pay full asking price, 2) Pay double the asking price, 3) run away, 4) dance around a little first.

    I have no idea what you are asking for.
  4. If the frame geometry is fine, there should be no problems with the bike. Ask for a test ride anyway.
  5. Ok sorry, I thought it was a silly question. Since it does not clarify the extent of slide, the asking price, the type of bike, what you plan to do with the bike after purchase etc.

    What would happen if we said walk away, others would say bargain like crazy, but if you wanted to use it as a project bike, or you wanted to put it in your garden as a feature, or you wanted to race it and not reg it etc.

    So you have come up with two possibilities both of which could be done. Bargain like crazy and then walk away. But these are the same options for a non dropped bike etc. So the slide does not impact on if you would walk away or bargain. I have walked away from many non dropped bikes but also have made offers on totally mangeled bikes.
  6. ive got no problem with buying a bike that has gone down. i recently was after a cbr600f4i and looked at 10 of them and every one of them had been for some sort of slide. i know a cheap spray painter so i figured i would buy the one with the lowest klms and get the damage fixed myself. the one i got rode straight and im loving it
  7. Yeh if you can get it for a good price. Most important thing is that it hasn't slid the front wheel into a gutter hard.

    I bought a cbr600rr for stupid money (around half the going price at the time), every single piece of fairing and auxillerty was damaged. Owner admitted to repeated lowsides. I turned it into a track bike, after stripping it down there was zero damage to the chassis, forks, subframe, swingarm. And it was a low km bike (had 10,000 on it when I picked it up). Best buy I ever made.

    Also I had a cbr900rr that had been down a few times but was mechanically perfect. Got that for a bargain too.
  8. A friend of mine found himself with a bike that had a twisted frame. He found a mob in Melbourne (Victoria, Australia) that could straighten it with a computerized hydraulic jig of some kind. He rode it down to them from memory (it wasn't horrifically out of shape) and they did the job over a couple of days. When he got it back it was plain brilliant to ride! It had always had sensitive steering (GPz600R) but afterwards it felt telepathic, all you had to do was think where you wanted to go and it went EXACTLY there.
    Pity he dropped it when he hit a nasty pot hole (pot hole was in a shadow on the road and the 16" front didn't help) and wrote it off. It was a HOOT to ride when it was going.
  9. Unless you observed it unfold then I'd be very cautious and inclined to say crashed is crashed and assume the worst (unless its a blatant sidestand whoopsie away), or put your faith in the owners credibility and their version of events. You can't detect a whole lot without getting the bike in a jig, and a few mm will make a difference. I remember one of the guys went to an auction and typically they measured the wheel base, but it was significantly shorter, like 30mm. Bike still looked perfect and nothing visually out of place. It can all be corrected, but factor in 6-800 of basic straightening + any cosmetic repairs to make it go away. Then see if it's still a bargain, whilst also considering it will be worth less than an equivalent uncrashed bike upon resale so you'll take a haircut then as well.
  10. How does measuring the wheelbase on a bike give you an even vague idea of anything.

    My R1 has never been in an acco but if you measured the wheel base you'd find it's 3/4" over, can you tell me why?
  11. hmmm how can i say what i think here without getting this post deleted and then this thread shutdown -lol.
    in a word no. in two: no never... regardless if the bike has been fixed- and ''looks fine'' you cant really tell... and if the seller has not been honest you may just end up paying way too much for a bike that is not what it seems.
  12. Most of the bikes I've ever owned have, at the very least, been dropped at a standstill. It's one of the prices you pay for existing at the bottom of biking's food chain. My R1100 was bought as a repairable write off and was the best bike I've ever owned, bar none.

    So no, I don't automatically walk away from crashed machines. I do expect them to be significantly cheaper than pristine examples, though. By how much depends on the individual bike, the nature of the damage and the legal status.

    As far as detecting frame damage is concerned, I've always relied on a good visual inspection and whether it tracks straight hands-off and haven't yet been caught out. But then, I cut my biking teeth on machines of the 1970s and early 80s, some of which were so shoddily constructed that even perfect, uncrashed examples were significantly out of line when subjected to some pretty crude measurements so I'm not that fussy really.
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Sometimes crash damage is imperceptible to the naked eye, whether his test was valid or not I wont comment - I might have the figure wrong but he was adamant the bike was shorter than it should have been and I don't have reason to doubt him, he's in that line of work.

    Probably can't tell you anything you dont already know, where are you measuring from? Fr axle to fixed point or axle to axle or other measurement? As you'd know there can be variations to spec in new bikes, and therefore between bikes.
  14. Different strokes for different folks.

    When looking at VTR250s, there was one priced very nicely because it went for a slide, and there was absolutely nothing wrong with it mechanically. There was another with a lot more KMs on the odo and cost more, but was immac and he had full servicing history, manual, etc.

    I decided to pay a little more because looking at scrapes down one side of the bike would bug the hell out of me...but that's just me. It doesn't always come down to money. Just came down to personal preference.
  15. There are certain types of bike that I'd ONLY consider if they had had a wee bit of a slide down the road.

    A Suzi GSXR1000, or a BMW 1000RR rocketship, I could only be interested in a gravel rashed one, since I'd want to peel off the fairings, fit proper handlebars and make it into a Street Fighter (as in crashed sports bike, cheaply repaired). ;)

    But it would have to be cheap!
    • Like Like x 1
  16. streetfighter bmw - sounds like way too much fun.
  17. Yeah! :)

  18. The wheelbase gets longer as you adjust the chain, for one.

    Or you rest your foot the rear brake...

    OP- too little info, but unless you're competent to examine the thing fairly throughly, or are willing to pay to get it done, you're taking a gamble.

    If they weren't up front about a drop and are asking a bargain price for what is being passed off as a tidy bike, I'd be especially wary.

    The used market is chockers with bikes that are slow to sell, so it pays to look around.
  19. You have altered the final drive gearing by going down in sprocket size causing the rear wheel to be located further back when the chain is adjusted . Standard mod on a zx10r.....-1 on the front sprocket ;) ;)
  20. My VFR literally does not have a single panel that isnt completely ruined, it was in a high speed lowside at EC before i bought it, which ground 3 holes in the fairing and took loads of paint off, the side panels are barely held together, the pillion seat is held on with steel cable ties and is missing the back plastic (luckly my p plate fills the void and hides what would otherwise be a gaping hole), and on one side of the fairing it cracked in half when i dropped it and its all plastic welded (diy) and epoxyed back together.

    anyone who has seen my bike would call it written off.

    But everything inside the fairings is awesome, as the mechanics said today, luckily for you, it rides a hell of a lot better than it looks.

    anyway yeah, buy a pre crashed bike, def, as long as you make sure the frame is good and the bike was not compromised besides cosmetics in the crash, then its fine.

    heres a picture if you want to see what im talking about. A fair bit of colour coded duct taping hides a lot of the damage aswell.


    fcuk cosmetics.
    • Like Like x 2