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Workshop manuals need more realism

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by azi, May 31, 2008.

  1. I think the manufacturers need to start making their workshop manual texts more realistic.

    For example, your average Honda manual might say...

    "After turning off the fuel tap and disconnecting the fuel line from the tap, gently remove the fuel tank and...." etc etc.

    You'd think that the first two steps would take about 10 seconds.

    The real life manual would read something like this:

    • Turn off the fuel tap.
      Locate the fuel line from the left hand side.
      Using a torch, locate the fuel line from the left hand side.
      Insert fresh batteries in your torch, then using the torch, locate the fuel line from the left hand side.
      Pinch open the retaining fuel line circlip.
      Suck the blood off your fingers, then loosen the retaining circlip with pliers.
      Using torch and pliers, retrieve the fuel line circlip from between the carburettors, cam chain tensioner, fuel tank breather pipe, and wiring loom.
      Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tap.
      Suck blood off your fingertips, then disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tap with pliers.
      Holding the torch in your mouth, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel tap whilst holding the plier handles with your right hand and the plier jaws with your left hand.
      Using your torch, check the garage floor for dislodged carburettor balance pipe plug from slipped pliers.
      Apply first aid to redback spider bites.
      Replace carburettor balance pipe plug.
      Gently and patiently wiggle the fuel line from the fuel tap.
      Turn off the fuel tap. Move your bike outside and hose off petrol from the engine; this may present a fire hazard if not attended to.
      Now you are ready to remove the fuel tank.
  2. Yeah some of the manuals are pretty ordinary...but,
    I have an old manual from the mid 80's for the 750 gpz i used to own , 420 odd pages of well detailed info with clear pictures, bloody top manual.
    I also have a factory manual for my current bike 2000 mod sportsbike that is bloody useless !!
  3. I spin out just watching the assembly lines, most bikes are thrown together in 30mins. How does that work??

    From my experience of working on bikes & their manuals, I use the manual as the guide. The first time always takes the longest & usually involves a few wrong steps (in the process).

    Maybe they're designed to encourage going back to the shop for the next bit of maintance.
  4. Where do I put my order in for a VTR? :grin:
  5. I've always liked lines such as "A few taps with a copper hammer will remove the cotter pins". Repeated as a mantra whilst whaling away with a 10 pound sledgehammer without shifting the damn things :grin: .

    Although the Haynes I had for my Land-Rover did have a paragraph doing all it could to dissuade readers from contemplating a gearbox rebuild, concluding with the classic line "The decision to rebuild the gearbox will be dependent upon the degree of noise and malfunction that the driver is prepared to tolerate".

    My tolerance was obviously quite high, as I drove the thing for several months with only first and top fully operational, no third, a second gear that went CLACKCLACKCLACKCLACK when engaged, and an output shaft oil seal which didn't, filling the handbrake drum with EP90 and rendering hill starts an exciting exercise in physical dexterity :grin: .
  6. I think that whoever wrote the manual for my bike really outdid themselves.

    From page 72: "Place the motorcycle on its centre stand."

    From page 80: "This motorcycle is equipped with a side stand only."
  7. Brilliant! :LOL:
  8. classic, el damo :LOL:.
  9. :rofl: @ LAM's link.

    I'd seen the tool stuff (many times) but the Haynes translations and the smoke Q & A were all new to me.
  10. and
  11. Riigghhttt...

    Decided to give a full service to my 'new' 2nd-hand ER5.

    "...remove thermostat housing...remove rocker cover, push forward and slightly twist to ease out of frame..."

    1. Didn't mention the removal of the thermostat housing included the two down-pipes that pass into the cylinder block next to the spark plugs - welded in place after years of not moving.

    2. "..ease forward.." - right, after removing the radiator retention bolts as the b!**^&% thing hits the fan if you dont.

    3. "..twist to ease out.." My a@$e! Remove the engine mounting bolts to drop the engine to get the cover out - it hits the frame however you 'twist and ease' and as far as I know when a metal thing is prevented from moving by another metal thing, no amount of 'easing' and straining will work without changing the shape - which I was very tempted to do in this instance...

    As usual, the 2 hour budget time turned into a 6 hour marathon.....

    ...but it all works out in the end and the memory is tinted in rose for the next time I contemplate "..wonder if I should check the xx this afternoon as I have a couple of hours free....."
  12. Boing!!!!

    I'll offer this classic from a Yamaha 2 stroke trail bike manual circa 1978. My brother had decided to convert the 250 to a 360. This involved changing the barrel and piston, and the drive gear on the oil pump (to get more oil into the bigger motor).
    He had dismantled the oil pump, which had burst apart in a shower of little springs and small parts. He asked me for help, and I looked up the manual. The index said "Chapter 7: Oil Pump".

    I opened the book at Chapter 7. It was a very short chapter.

    "The oil pump is a precision machined assembly, make no attempt to disassemble it".

  13. So true

  14. yea some motorbike manuals are a bit dicky, but they pale in comparison to aircraft maintenance manuals, now they are real bastards!