Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Which engine oil for YZF-R125?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by InvalidUser, Dec 15, 2014.

  1. Hi All,
    I'm just wanting to complete some general maintenance on my machine and have a few questions;
    1. What is the difference between fully synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral engine oils?
    2. What should I put in my bike? - its a Yamaha YZF-R125
    The only thing I can find on my manual is to use 10w40 and "API Service SG Type or higher, JASO standard MA"
    I ride maybe 2-4 times a week max, and usually only casual rides around town, I usually give it a bit but don't thrash the guts out of it.
    I'm currently looking at - Motul 7100 10W40 and Motul 5100 10W40 but can't figure out the difference.
    Also, does anyone know what oil filter I need for this bike - I can't find anything on my manual - it just says "Paper type".

  2. Each bike will take a different oil filter so you need one for your make and model. You can either get one from Yamaha or you might be able to find one from a generic supplier like Ryco.

    No idea on the diff between the Motuls but if you go to their website I am sure the info is there.

    Synthetic is generally regarded as better than mineral but costs more. Semi-synthetic is a blend of both so possibly a bit better than mineral.

    Generally don't use synthetics until your bike is well run in, It may interfere with the running in process. After that your call.

    In theory the best oil is best for your bike but it would be better to put in a lesser quality oil and change frequently than spend a shitload on synthetics and not change often enough.

    There is an oil Controversy thread here (thousands of pages long in case you decide to read) in which some people advocate using cheap diesel oil and changing frequently and have done so with good results, What this probably means is that if you service your bike with a half way decent oil and change at the presecribed intervals then the motor should last.

    However, riding infrequently and then only short rides around town is perhaps a high engine wear scenario. You really should get out more and give the motor a decent run now and then.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Thanks for the reply!
    I've just settled on some oil (Motul 5100 10w40)
    Still can't figure out whether it's fully synthetic or semi but it's got all the right specs as per the manual. I settled on the middle option deciding it wasn't too high or low on each end. Using the manual and a bit of advice from forums here and there. Although some there seems to be some debate on every little thing all other the net.
    Got an oil filter for $13 from bikebiz parra today so I guess that will do (genuine yammy).
    This is the first change since I've got the bike.
    The last being back in April and about 800kms ago - I figure this way I know exactly what's in my bike and know when would be about time to change again.
    I was thinking every 1000kms, would this be too much or too little?
    The manual has every 3000km (currently at 70xxkm)
    I usually commute about 30-40 minutes to work once or twice a week and might take it out on my days off once or twice for between 1-2 hours. There's usually some slow speed practice thrown in there for at least 30 minutes, usually before my actual ride.
  4. Every 3000km is fine. The only reason you'd change more often would be if the bike sat idle for long periods, like months.
  5. Motul 5100 10W40 is full synthetic.
    At $20.00/litre, $70.00/4litre I consider it fairly expensive.

    For what it's worth, the recommendations for oil for my bike are exactly the same as yours, ie SG 10w40 JASO MA, and what I use is Penrite HPR Gas 10 semi-synth;
    At $43.00/5litre I change the oil more frequently than the handbook calls for, and don't whinge about the cost of the oil. YMMV
  6. Cool, I'll probably do every 3000km after this service
    gunissan - The link you've got is the 7100 which is fully synthetic.
    I bought the 5100 and I can't find anything on whether it's synthetic as far as I can see
    It cost $19.90 for 1L and bikebiz had it on sale at $54.99 for 4 litres.
    Cost a bit more but as long as I don't have any problems I'll be happy.
    The 7100 cost around $24.90 I think it was.
  7. Sorry, something went wrong there, how I don't know, my apologies for the disinformation. Nevertheless at $70.00+ per four litres (via Ebay) still an expensive oil, at the $55.00/4litre you paid it's better, but IMO still expensive.



    Hard to tell from the info available online, But when I read the terminology used "Technosynthese lubricant reinforced by Ester base stock" I would guess that probably means a semi-synth, if it was full-synth it would probably say so. All of which leads me back towards the Penrite oil I referred to earlier.

    Not trying to badger or lecture you by any means, your bike your decisions entirely. You won't go wrong putting Motul 5100 in the bike.

    Have fun, ride safe.

    • Like Like x 1
  8. Thanks nevertheless, being a new rider sometimes you suffer from information overload and when groups start to debate what to use for what things only get worse.
    Your help is very much appreciated but I'll likely look at that oil you mentioned perhaps sometime in the future.
    Thanks again!
    Will do, you too =]
  9. Massive overkill, the cheapest nastiest oil matching your bikes requirements would have been fine in your bike.

    it's a semi-synthetic blend.
  10. #10 mike8863, Dec 17, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2014
    I have to disagree with Clint here because @ 150cc of rippling tuning fork muscle, the poor little thing is going to be working fairly hard just to keep up with traffic...

    I would use a reasonable quality oil, but not necessarily the way overpriced bike specific brands, and change it reasonably often.
    Like most single cylinder engines, the oil capacity is limited and as a result the oil will degrade fairly quickly.
    +1 for the earlier suggestion re Penrite....Aussie company with a good range of synthetic and semi synthetic oils with specific mention of being suitable for wet clutches and at a reasonable price ( especially when supercrap have then on special...which most quality bike specific oils never are - available at reasonable prices )

    btw, motul5100 is us$9.95 per Ltr and 7100 us$13.99 @ jakewilson.com.....as usual ripped off in Aus
  11. Regardless whether overkill or not I've already bought it so will try it out and see how it goes. Not a big deal as it's still the recommended 10w40 I figure.

    Thanks mike8863, but it looks like a different type on jakewilson.com but its named the same (maybe its an old photo). It looks like I'd have to buy more to make my purchase from them worthwhile though as its got $50 postage to Australia? and there's also the conversion rate (1:1.22 at the moment I believe)
    Something to look into in the future possibly, if/when I need new gear perhaps.
    The oil however is showing the following message so... =/
    Important message:
    Please correct the information below:
    • There are chemicals that are classified as ORM-D items in your cart that cannot be shipped to your desired destination. You must remove these items before placing your order.
  12. I use Jakewilson as an example only to illustrate the more than 30%+ extra we pay in Australia.
    I know that it would be difficult to ship oils, US > Aus.
    A look at their corporate history suggests that Motul oils are possibly blended in Vietnam for the Asia-Pacific market..IBB, makes the 'cost of freight' argument even less valid
    so we are left with the usual question of WHY is it so much more expensive here...( insert sigh of resignation here )
  13. Oh I see, true, but then again prices are pretty high across the board compared to overseas so its no real surprise.
    I've read that Australians are however amongst the highest paid, couple that with smaller population relative to other countries and the companies that are here are able to monopolize and drive prices higher.
  14. I use Penrite HPR10 gas just like gunissan and found it better than the other oils I have used, smoother shifting just one of the benefits for me as well as the price.
    learned about this oil from some club racers.
    • Like Like x 1
  15. Delo 400 diesel oil is suitable for motorcycle engines/wet clutches. You can buy a barrel of the stuff if you want. Soon as I get up to the old man's place in Tamworth I'll stick it in both my FZR's
  16. silkonene is the best i reckon
  17. I'd agree that regular changing if you go cheap is wise as these little suckers don't have a lot to start with. Gotta make sure the bike is good and level when checking or changing.