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Which 2000 to 2004, 600 cc supersports?

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by Matt GO!!!!!!!, May 18, 2010.

  1. Hey everyone long time user and lurker here, Incoming wall of text.


    I have finally outgrown my 1989 Honda CBR250R and have been keen to upgrade to a 600. I do not want to spend more then $7000 tops being a uni student.
    So far I have rode a 2002 Yamaha R6 enjoyed it very much, the bike sounded amazing, it was very compact / the fairing didnt bulge out much, it felt slightly twichty but in a way I like that. Brakes were very nice also and gear change very smooth. Seat position was high up comared to my 250, I felt like half a metre taller. Power was very nice.

    I also test rode a 2003 Suzuki GSXR600. It was a bit bulky felt very solid more stable then the R6. The gearbox clunked through gears, (like made a clunk sound) the dealer guy told me it was normal. I like the looks of the R6 alot more though looked alot sexyier, the Suzuki seemed like a fat woman. Bars are curved funny and really low got sore wrists from a 10 min test ride. Seemed like a very safe bike and still rewarding in its own way. Didnt get to try the 3 ride selector? Wet weather, normal and sport I think it is.

    So I'm left with the Ninja ZX6R and the Honda CBR600RR to go. Im not sure about Ninja, they often seem to cost more then the others. I've heard the feedback / rider feel from road to tyres from the Ninja is a bit off. You don't know what the bike is doing sometimes? The Honda I can't say anything till I have rode it. I was at one point contemplating about Suzuki DRZ? motard 400and even Aprilia RS250 2 stroke roadbike but after test riding a 600 I need one.

    Few questions

    1- Some of the models from 2000 to 2002 are still carby and not fuel injected, this should be nothing to worry about ?
    2- Do any of the 2000 - 2004 supersports have had any factory recalls or any big problems to look out for ? (I've heard Suzuki had a frame recall)
    3- I will look myself and find out quotes, but there is any reason makes and models will insure for more or less? Eg The yamaha R6 insurance won't be $150 more then a Honda 600 to insure?
    4- How many KM's is too much. Im trying to find people who "selling to buy house" " going overseas" "im pregant" excuses with only 30 000Km's done on the clock. Is 80 000km? 60 000km? even too much?


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  2. Why don't you just find a motorbike riding chick and get her pregnant then take her bike?

    In all seriousness...

    Heaps of people (including myself) have asked a similar question recently, and probably since the dawn of netrider and even the internet.

    1) Carby bikes are cool too. I've heard lots of people that I have high regard for their motorbike knowledge tell me when I get my upgrade bike to go carby. Some of them even prefer the big carby'd bikes like CBR900 or earlier ZX-10's.
    2) No idea, but probably.
    3) Certain models are more likely to be stolen or crashed. Also certain bikes blow up when you crash them such as earlier R6's due to the shape of the fuel tank protruding over the body. The insurance company knows they won't be getting off lightly.
    4) Don't know really. I'd want no more than 50,000km's, but that's because I'll put 20,000+ on in a year.
  3. If you are looking at an R6 try to get onto an 03 One.
    That is when they introduced the Fuel injection as well as other goodies.
    Also take the Honda for a spin, they are a fundamentally different feel and each bike works differently for different people.
  4. R6 is where its at :)
  5. im wondering the same questions ;)

    In qld there are quite a few 2005 cbrs going for 7k or less, and a couple of 2004 r6 for the same pricing.

    So im going to start at them.
  6. The 636 Kwaka that falls inside your specifics rates well with owners.

    The CBR is always good, with the sportiness level changing over that period.
  7. 636 always spoken well of. Sounds like you are taken by the R6, which is as good a reason as any when you're talking about picking one of the Japs. I can recommend the handling and stability of early K-series (2000 on) GSXRs, and they have always had the best gearboxes going around, so a clunk is not normal. They are a little bulkier than the others, but not by much and you get used to it.

    On that note, don't believe a single word that comes out of a salesperson's mouth.

    Don't worry about carbied bikes too much. EFI tends to be smoother and more consistent, but it's not the be-all and end-all.

    Mileage is a constant question - my 2000 GSXR750 had 85,000 on it before it showed signs of needing a rebuild. It all comes down to how a bike is treated and maintained, which doesn't show up on the Odo!

    Happy hunting.
  8. I went from 96 ZX7R to 2005 ZX6R ( which is 636 ).

    I really enjoyed the ZX7R however the upgrade to the 05 ZX6R was amazing.

    The bike only cost me $7,500. It does have more power than the other 600s and all the reviews of that particular year model gave it full credit for power and handling.

    I found the fuel injection to be awesome, just for easy starts if nothing else.

    I also found that my ZX7R was extremely strong and reliable with over 50,000kms. I am certain you just need to look at each bike and judge case by case. Sometimes high kms have been highway kms and haven't really hurt the bike. Compression test is always a good idea if you're that worried.

    I don't see how you'll have a problem with ANY of the 600s though.
  9. If you've ben honed on a CBR250R then a DRZ400 won't really cut it for you. Roughly equal power, huge torque - its a midrange bike. The RS250's could only be better than the RS125 I had, and it was a blast! Only thing is that you do need to do atop end service (piston/rings/bearings/gasket) every 10,000km...which would be irritating if you do a lot of km's.

    Carbies are fine, they're just the mechanical way of getting fuel ratioed into your engine with air. You do need to do occasional maintenance like idle adjustment (turn screw to suit) but its all within the scope of your average joe - besides, your CBR250R's got carbies. Four of them. Any trouble there? No? Exactly. You can also tune for modifications quite easily with carbies by installing new jets, as opposed to trying to find an ECU tuner or chip upgrade for EFI systems.

    All the 600's will be roughly the same in terms of insurance. At the end of the day, they're a 600cc SuperSport bike, and are sold on performance with marketing aimed primarily at guys aged 21 to 40. Not a great recipe for low insurance.

    KM's will be a case by case basis, and is really why you need to go test riding. Try get an idea of what problems you are likely to encounter, and look for them. Tyre wear, chain tension and sprocket condition are indicators you can check while not even riding. Feathery, flogged tyres and a slack chain with hooked sprockets? This bike has been flogged. Gearchanges should be smooth, clutch shouldn't slip with hard throttle application, smoke and rattles should be minimal or non-evident. If there is a thermostat then it should rise within 5min to the midrange 'norma' zone and not head towards the red after that. Throttle should be crisp and response good etc etc.

    Hope that helps some, and good luck with finding your new ride.

    Cheers - boingk
  10. if you go a r6, go a 2003+ as they were the first of the efi models

  11. agreed, but the carb models are easier to work on
  12. get a 2001-2002 CBR600 F4i, they are cheap, have the power to keep with most newish 600s, and are very reliable.
    i have had one for over 12 months now and its been a really easy bike to ride while still giving thrills. the economy is a little high.. 200kms for about $20..

    either way just make sure that the bike you buy has a pipe on it..

    why would that be? with FI bikes you dont need to play with any settings, its all automatic.
    if anything they are less of a hassle to work on. because all you need to do to the parts is keep em clean.
  13. Hi

    My 2 cents just briefly:

    1. Kawasaki are (or were) selling the 08 ZX-6R for $10k flat ride-away. You should be able to get on a lowish km ZX-6R for the $7k mark in light of this. 05 and 06 were the 636cc models (good for the road I hear, never ridden one), there are some low km models on bikesales that have been on there for literally approaching a year (I was looking this time last year). Be polite about it but let them know they are dreaming with respect to their asking prices if they actually intend to ever sell the bike. Maybe mention what Kwaka were selling the 08 for and go from there. You should be able to get on one of those with anywhere between 10,000 and 30,000 kms depending on how desperate the seller is.

    The 07 and 08 ZX-6R are the 599 or 600cc models. In light of the recent sale prices of the 08 models, you should be able to get on some of these for around the $7K mark, though they seem to be in short supply on bikesales.

    2. There are some 05 R6s on bikesales around your price range with low kms. I'm not sure how fixed you are on your price range but if you can move up towards $8k, there are even some 06 and 07 models. The R6 got a lot more focussed in 06 (totally different bike to 05).

    3. Factor transfer duty into your price (say $200 to $300 on bikes in and around $7-$10K). You can get an exact figure from the QT site.

    4. Factor in comprehensive insurance (assuming you want it). I was paying well over $1K a year for my 07 GSX-R600, and I'm the crap side of 25. I had some recent interaction with the Police which didn't help me, but otherwise I have 10 years driving experience with 1 accident, 8 years ago (which I don't need to disclose). Either way, it is expensive if you want to insure a sports bike, so don't forget about that part.

    5. In terms of which model you go for (and I say this without intending to be patronizing and with the utmost respect, because I applied this theory for myself when I was buying a super sport), no matter what 600 you get, when you take it to the track and open up the throttle it will make you crap yourself. Don't get too hung up on the dry weights and horsepower figures. If you are a mortal like most of us, they are all plenty of bike :beer:. I ended up going with the Suzuki (even though less ponies on paper than the R6) because I got a bike with 4,xxxkms, still under warranty for a steal. Looking back I'm embarrassed that I even looked at those paper statistics.

    6. Keep an eye out for signs of abuse. Look for how the tyres are worn (right to the edge or just the midde? just the middle they probably have never ridden it hard, except maybe in a straight line, though out to the edge suggests a more competent rider, who is more likely to look after his bike), bits of rubber on the rear hugger suggest burn outs (I've had sellers openly admit to me that they've done numerous burn outs on their bikes - walk away slowly and don't turn your back), cotton reels may suggest its been tracked (not neceessarily a bad thing, provided they maintained it accordingly), check service history, look to see if they've run fully synthetic oil etc. You should be able to spot an enthusiast from a bogan. Buy accordingly.

    7. Please let me 'test' ride it post purchase :biker: .
  14. There is only one true answer to your question :p

    2003 Kawasaki ZX-6R

    Extra grunt, loves wheelies, first 600 with radial brakes, massive ground clearance, stock can sounds like an aftermarket job, loves wheelies, corners like a house fly, looks mental, and it should even stick with modern 600s. Did I mention the wheelies?

    You can't go wrong, I've almost ruined a friendship by stealing a mates 636 one to many a time without asking.