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Whats the point of running in a new bike?

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by krisbell, Sep 4, 2008.

  1. Hi Guys,

    I am taking delivery of a brand spanking new '08 Triumph Street Triple next week :grin: (hopefully) and just wanted to know what the purpose of the engine run in times are?

    I just enjoy riding and know very little about the mechanical side of things so please humour me if this is a really dumb question!

    I think the run in for the Striple is something like nothing above 7,000rpm for the first 800km. Also I'm told it is important to modulate the throttle on a new bike - again what is the reason for this and is it strictly necessary? What will happen if I dont follow the guidelines? I just dont see how I will be able to contain myself to beneath 7,000rpm for very long!!!

    Cheers, Kris
  2. With the first post I agree, agree whole heartedly, and infact it is so well writted I will have to keep a copy of the link to refer others to.
  3. Its the same thing with cars, so many different theorys on how to break in an engine.

    Food for thought, Ferrari thrashes the tits off every brand new engine before putting it in the car they sell. I have heard many people say you should break it in like you plan to use it, ie drive/ride it like you stole it.

    But then again you will find many others who disagree with that.
  4. Congrats on the purchase. I've just run in my Daytona 675 :)

    Like has been posted, theres so many schools of thought.

    Firstly, ignore the sticker on the tank!!! The manual is more correct.

    Secondally, I don't know myself...but here goes.

    In short, your bike has lots of metal things rubbing against each other, they're precision machined, to a point. The need to wear against each other so that they're happy and have a nice fit. More to the point, your piston rings form the seal against the piston and bore. The seal isn't fantastic to begin with, but as they rub against each other (taking off metal in the process) they bed in to each others grooves. This is why your first service is at 800km, theres a lot of metal in the oil, so its best to get rid of it rather than ride on that oil for 10,000km (some even change it at the first 50-100km).

    You'll notice the bike is a bit hesitant to begin with, then after about 200km it feels better as all gets lubed and rubbed in. Also you'll notice it smoke a bit on startup as things haven't really bedded in and sealed up.

    The key to run in is heat cycles. Metallurgy 101....metals are a crystaline structure that can be altered by heating and cooling. Getting heat through the metal gets rid of some of the impurities. Heat cycling alters the crystaline structure of the metals, and also with the expansion/contraction of the metal parts, aids in bedding everything in. The key is to get things up to temperature, for a period, then let them down again...and repeat. Don't cruise for an hr or so at the same speed as the same heat is going through the metal with no cycling (as such varying the revs).

    I babied mine for the first 50km or so, staying under 7000. Then every 50km I'd push a bit harder. By about 400km I was having short spurts into 10,000 territory. Really, I was feeling what the bike wanted to do...it felt tight to begin with and as it losend up, so did my throttle hand.
  5. I think that Manufactures put that in there to protect their machinery for the first bit of it life.
    But at the end of the day it's covered under warranty any way. Unless you have a dirty of course and then there is no such thing as warranty.
    But another consideration will be that if this is your first bike what are the chances that you are going to have the tacho go past 7K any way.
    When I first got my Blade I was told not to take it over 8K, even after now months over ownership I think I have barely had it over 8K that many times any way.
    You will probably find when you first get on the Street Triple you will be putting around think how cool you look on your brand spanking new toy to be to worried about ringing its neck anyway.
    Sorry if I was bit all over the place with that post,
  6. Thanks for your all your input guys - from reading all the stuff I think I am going to take it nice and easy for the first 500k's before gradually letting go a little more and get the first service done no later than 800km before properly opening up.

    Its amazing the variation in opinion. Saw this article as well which is kind of contrary to most recommendations http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

    I think half the problem is theres no real way of knowing that if a bike performs well or badly 30,000k's down the line whether that was a result of poor treatment at the start or whether it was going to do that anyway. Its a pretty difficult thing to work out.
  7. Depends on the engine and its components, but generally a run in uses a thinner viscosity oil, so thrashing it generally is not a good idea because it doesn't tend to protect components as much as the thicker stuff. But what it does is help wear them in, harden components and in particular helps with O-Ring seals. Thrash the hell out of it and you risk things going bang. Some engines have already been pre-run in before they hit the shelves, just depends on the manufacturer and the type of engine.

    As said before there are many theories about running in engines, thrash it and it'll go harder for it's life etc etc. But stick to the manufacturer rules, they tend to know their products the best. By no means should you baby it, just be consistent in your throttle usage and don't go beyond the stated RPM.
  8. But stick to the manufacturer rules, they tend to know their products the best.

    However, the big question is, how much of that is covering their own arse, and how much is bona-fide... Having in the manual "Treat it like you stole it" would not make for a good PR exercise....
  9. So how many do 500,000km?

    OP it depends on how long you'll be riding this bike for. Dont baby it but dont flog it either. I'd lean towards what Trumpy say and not Ferrari :)
  10. Or they could simply not mention a run in period, and avoid the whole topic. If a manufacturer says you should do a run in, follow it. It wouldn't be there for no reason and it'll chances are it'll give you a more reliable/predictable engine.
  11. There was a great discussion about this on the Aprilia forums. A guy got a new Tuono, thrashed it mercilessly and it blew up. His local dealer opined that as the v-max indicator read 150mph, it must have been to the track and/or thrashed and therefore the warranty claim would be rejected.

    The rider was from Canada and in the Canadian owners manual there was no explicit instruction on the running in period or how to do it. The US, UK and Australian manuals do have guidance.

    I believe he succeeded in his claim. So, do whatever the manual states, after all, 1000km is only a weekend.
  12. i totally agree with the method outlined by the above mentioned link. but it's a very touchy matter, and many "old school" engine builders, still to this day, refuse to accept technology has allowed for shorter run in periods.
  13. Yes and Ferarris are known for being ridiculously unreliable, tempramental and onstantly broken down.
    Poor choice of example.

    Regards, Andrew.
  14. Rubbish. That is a RACE ENGINE break in procedure.
    Go do the factory break in on a bike, then that one on an identical bike and get back to us.
    Until then, and you have actual proof that the mototune procedure does not significantly reduce engine lfes span, I will continue to believe the time homoured and PROVEN procedures followed by mechanical engineers, not the procedure that rewards instant gratification of new bike owners.
    Here's a little hint, metallurgy and machining haven't really changed much, it has refined slightly but not much. A Nikasil bore is still the same Nikasil bore of 35 years ago.

    Regards, Andrew.