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Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by Scuzzlebutt, Feb 24, 2012.
I've found a vt1100 quite cheap.
Is there any issues with this bike I should be on the look out for?
Well, it's not a Yamaha for a start.
Haha! Yup fair enough!](*,)
Too much shit going around in my head today. Okay Honda vt1100 then. It's the american classic edition (ACE). I've read about vibration issues. Is there ways to remedy this or should I steer clear if this?
buy the yamaha version xvs1100 or vstar1100
The Honda VT1100 Shadow came in several configurations and engine variants.
The ACE was a retro styled bike with a single pin crankshaft that made it fire like a Harley... Potato...Potato... Potato... goes the exhaust tune, if you get rid of the stock exhaust system. These engines vibrate as a result.
Some of the other variants used a two pin crankshaft that results in an even firing pattern... Put.Put.Put.Put.Put. These engines run smoother.
The VT1100C2 ACE that was released in Australia was the same as the model in Germany and a few other places... it was restricted from the factory to only be 34HP, whereas the US model ran at 50HP. If you remove the restriction from the air intake and re-jet the carbies you will get the lost HP back... and it makes a World of difference! The engines can be worked to get 80HP without bottom end work, but 60HP is a more reasonable target with just bolt-ons, tweaks, and a good tuning.
There's a lot of after-market bits available, but not from most shops in Oz! Shop online for these bikes and it's possible to build up a custom ride for not a a lot of outlay. Usual rule applies, do it yourself and save.
eg V&H pipes US$450, Kurakyn grips US$50, levers US$20, control cables US$15, speedo cable US$15.
These bikes are getting on in age now so a few things will often need attention and, once done, will greatly improve the bike and ride.
* Front brake line: change it to a braided line (about $75-90 to have one made in Oz), it makes braking a 2 finger motion.
* Fork oil: replace it with clean 15W, it will stop the dive on braking and smooth out the ride on hard corners.
* Rear shocks: might be OK but they can be replaced with ones intended/from a HD.
* Suspension lowering: if you beef up the springs you can easily lower these bike an inch without clearance issues... and it'll corner like a sports bike ( which is a buzz with your arse so close to the ground).
Definitely an under rated bike, probably because of the 34HP vs 50HP issue, but they can be picked up cheaply enough and they do lend well to a bit of customising.
Azz, why on earth did they restrict them to 34HP?
A bike that weighs that much restricted... phoar. It'd be like sailing on the road.
Blowed if I know QuarterWit, probably some PC mumbo-jumbo about safer less powerful bikes, or to get under an emissions restriction.
Get rid of the restriction and and it's a completely different beast; a 47% increase in HP and gawd knows how much torque is no small jump!
1st gear used to run out of puff by 40kms, now ~60 and a bit... and there's no incredibly dramatic engine braking like before, so even low speed manoeuvring is better. By 2nd gear you licence is looking dodgy and by third you're a hoon, and there's still 4th and 5th to go... thankfully they're so tall that cruising is where they're best used.
It's no wonder they sat in showrooms for years; they took a good bike and neutered it!
Stitching the balls back on is relatively easy and any half decent handyman with an idea of what he's doing can. The hardest part is getting the carbies out; they're tucked in nice and tight between the cylinders and two frame members, but there are some decent how-to's on the Internet... I even discovered a new use for occy-strap hooks.
If you were to add a full set of V&H pipes, a K&N filter, and a jet kit (you'll need pilots and mains with needles) to the build and your bill will be about $600 for ~50+% more HP with oodles of torque... so you'll really need the new braided front brake line!