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What type of battery should i get?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Meyerhoff, May 29, 2016.

  1. Replacing the mg12a bsc that came with my used triumph 600. Its allegedly a gel but i suspect its an AGM. Im wondering what type of battery i should get that has the best heat and impact resistance, but i dont want to spend any more money than i need to because i may not keep this bike for long. My bike gets really hot, I saw that at least one type of li-on i looked at was rated to 60c but that seems kind of low.

    Im also not sure if its a good idea to get well above the CCAs required. I cant actually figure out how many CCas my bike requires. The battery has conked out on me twice now but i cant tell if thats just because the battery is dying or if more CCAs would allow more attempts to crank in the future.

    Fast recharge would be ideal too since i dont ride long distance so theres not much time for the battery to recharge during the rides so thats one tick in the li-on box.

    So to reiterate what battery type has the best heat and impact resistance and does it matter if my bike is getting well over the CCAs required to start?
  2. Heat and impact resistance.....none!
    Bikes seem to function better the least times you throw them down the road

    Lithium seems to be the fastest charging and give the most consistent output however be prepared to pay and do have fire insurance incase the bike does decide to run flaming hot.
    I'd check your bikes charging system is working and if your going on lots of small trips invest in a trickle charger to keep it in top health.

    Not really, just that the battery can potentially generate higher currents which can be beneficial when cranking on larger bikes.
    Cons would be size (make sure it fits), heavier, potentially less durable (more thinner lead plates for more amps)
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  3. Many short trips = trickle charger
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  4. #4 Meyerhoff, May 29, 2016
    Last edited: May 29, 2016
    i should also mention i let id idle for 3-4 mins before riding. I worry that might also be causing an abnormally large drain. but im pretty sure either the battery or charging system is going because sometimes when the bike is running my instruments reset on the road. its rather dangerous.
  5. I would replace it with the stated one for the bike. AGM's are fine and have been doing the jog quite well for some time. If you are having electrical problems when the bike is running then I think you may have bigger problems other than battery.
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  6. Your instruments/ecu resets while riding and you haven't had the charging system checked????
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  7. #7 Meyerhoff, May 29, 2016
    Last edited: May 29, 2016
    Batteries at 12.44 dcv off Goes to 11.8 dcv on at idle and gradually drops.
    Amps are at 0.7 on and rises to .8 or above when bike is revved. So that means my charging system is good right? However the manual says that charging current should be 10% of capacity. Im not clear on the specs for this battery. Ive seen it listed as 10amps on some sites and 8 amps on others.
  8. when you rev to a couple thousand rpm, you should be around 13.5-14.5V
    if it is not, then your charging system is likely kaput.

    as for current, the current draw of the engine and headlight.. I'm nto sure.
    headlight is around 5A, fuel pump, coils and ECU, have to be a couple of amps also.

    any extra current capacity goes to charge battery IF required.
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  9. at 4k revs dc V was around 13.5, and those are the revs i usually put about the streets on. I only mentioned the amps because i thought that was how the charging system was measured. I should also mention i measured that through the battery harness pins, not directly on the battery. I noticed that when i read the off voltage through the harness plugs it was .2 less. I just put that harness on today since i was expecting it to have to live off a trickle charger from now on until i get a new battery.

    I wrote off the problems with the instruments because i assumed it was the result of a bad battery or the fiddly electrics of triumphs in general that i was warned about by my dad before i bought the bike.
  10. nah, charging is measured in volts. amps changes depending on how much current is needed. fully charged battery needs no amps.
    13.5 at 4K is still a bit low, could be marginal. 13.7 better but you'd hope for 14+. owners manual/service manual should say? (will check)

    workshop manual says 13.5-15V at 2000rpm, so check there

    trickle charger will at least give battery the best chance of getting you home each day :)

    instruments or ECU resetting is usually due to either ignition switch or relay dodgy and intermittent, OR voltage temporarily going below a threshold voltage.
    I'd be monitoring voltage while riding, but also check all plugs for corrosion or water,.
    just pulling plugs apart and refitting will clean the terminals a bit and may help.

    below is voltage table from Triumph manual. assume measured from battery posts
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  11. #11 Meyerhoff, May 29, 2016
    Last edited: May 29, 2016
    What workshop manual do you have? Mine doesnt seem to go into that much detail. Anyway, at the posts its around 12.4 V at 2k revs. It falls to around 12.2 and then rises, etc.I cant promise my hand was perfectly steady but it was fairly steady so that dropping doesnt seem comensurate with the revs. however the bike wasnt warmed up either
  12. #12 oldcorollas, May 29, 2016
    Last edited: May 29, 2016
    Triumph 675 service manual (Daytona and Street) should be similar to the 660
    140 meg PDF here (right click n save?) ( I think it was this link)

    in the electrical section toward the end, it shows how to check alt, stator etc.
    section 17, page 468 of PDF onwards

    opps, I thought Triple 660... will look for 600 manual
    still, should be pretty similar specs
  13. #14 Meyerhoff, May 29, 2016
    Last edited: May 29, 2016
    cool. Anyway. the only error the odb throws up is p1500 which is vehicle speed output circuit malfunction. Now i think about it that might have something to do with the instrumentation problems. judging by the manual the odb unit i have wont be useful for troubleshooting that error.

    according to the reciepts i have the stator connection was cut and resoldered last year. It seems to have had 2 batteries in the past 6 months. Its also later got a new stator and either or regulator and rectifyer.
  14. sounds like something is "not right", and has been not right for some time.

    I'd suggest:
    1- check that the stator is ok. resistance in spec and not overheated/damaged. check voltage it puts out etc etc all the usual checks.
    2- check the wiring and plugs all the way from stator to battery. could be something dodgy along the way, and given the issues I'd be tempted to renew/enlarge all those wires, just to be sure :p
    also check and clean all the grounds, the battery terminals/connectors, and if anything dodgy, new wire and ends.
    3- check rec/reg, and see if it's output is correct. if not, go for a better unit and just replace. lots of options (in one of the linked threads above), keeping in mind the stator is rated at 33.5A.
    4- relocate rec/reg to somewhere with better cooling.

    basically, top to tail rebuild of charging system, because it's something you want to not fail.
    with a new bike of unknown/possibly dodgy history, always a good idea to go through it thoroughly at the start of your relationship :)
  15. Yep. I found this video
    Im a bit unclear on how to check the stator without cutting wires though but ill have a look tomorrow. Thanks for all your help.
  16. +1 for manufacturer stated battery type, the charging system and associated equipment is designed for that type....... also trickle charger for the win, if it sits, just plug it in, always good to go
  17. I like AGM and Lithium Ion Batteries. Not that there are any real issues with plain lead acid, so long as you keep them charged.

    Lithium Ion - expensive, but provide a lot of power for their weight. They have the lowest "self discharge rate" - that is they will take longer to go flat if they are not being used. The downside is that if they go completely flat, they often cannot be recharged. Popular among trail bike riders who want to save some weight. They also need to "warm up" to deliver max cranking power. - a trial start, a short rest of a minute or so, then the second go will have the battery producing its maximum power.

    AGM - seem to have the best life of the batteries I've used, and don't seem to self discharge as much as plain lead acid. I recently replaced one that was 16 years old.

    Both of these types of battery seem to weather deep cycles well. No battery should be completely discharged and most will die if left in a completely discharged condition for any length of time.

    Both of these require a charger that will charge this type of battery. They have a different requirement for charging and maintenance charging than plain lead acid batteries. Any charger which will charge them will also do the plain lead acid types.
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  18. most batteries will only stand a certain number of heavy charges- use a battery tender or trickle charger when not riding and you should never
    have problems as deep discharge and recharges won't be needed. I use Lithium batteries and have never had issues.
    My two cents worth