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What to service in a bike sitting for 1 year+ ?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by d e d, Apr 8, 2013.

  1. Hi NR's,
    Probably going to buy an old zxr 250 (really good nic with low km's) which has been sitting around for at least 1 year without being ridden (no rego).

    My rough idea of what will need to be done to it?:
    - New tires
    - New chain, maybe sprockets?
    - All fluids replaced (engine oil+filter, brake fluid, fork fluid, coolant)
    - New battery

    I do however suspect I will need to get a professional to service it for things I either don't know how to do, or simply haven't even considered/know about:
    - Carburettor servicing / fork fluid for example?

    Can anyone give me a rough idea of what additional things might need to be done and rough cost if I take it somewhere? just roughly for budgetting info at this stage.

    Of course any info or tips/advice is more than welcome!

    Thanks in advance
  2. #2 Nickers330, Apr 8, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
    I'm sure others may give you more specific ideas/suggestions, but.....

    Mate, any bike that has been sitting around for 1yr plus will need some work done to it..
    You're going to sit YOUR ass on that bike, so it comes to this :

    How much do you value your life? Would paying more to get a thorough service give you more confidence when saddling up ?

    This is my personal opinion, and by no means what anyone else would possibly do...but I DO value my life, and I WOULD spend money in getting a FULL service (akin to a Major) for your ZXR250, which shouldn't cost all that much but worth every cent.

    Lots of guys to try out for this service and/or advice as to what they would suggest also, in addition to what Netriders recommend - well done for checking in here.

    Dynoverks, 60 Degrees, E2W (though you'll have to be quick for AWESOME service with the latter - Peter is selling up)...

    I suspect a Major service for your bike should be in an area of ~ $500-600 plus parts...this will most probably include tyres (especially if the bike was on its side stand the whole time), air filter, fluids, brakes...etc...

    Good luck mate.
  3. Thanks for the quick reply Nickers.
    Yeah my plan was to just take it somewhere (somehow) and get them to do a full service so I know it'll be safe once it is back on the road.
    But I thought if I can do the basics (I am somewhat mechanically minded - service my own car etc) I might be able to save some $$$ and get them to do the more serious stuff and checkout the bike as a whole (will need a RWC anyways).

    However, having said that, would it be better for the mechanic to see the current state of the fluids in the bike to get some idea of the condition it might be in?
  4. Mate, if you're mechanically minded, then get some mates over who work on bikes regularly, throw some wrenches/spanners and screwdrivers around..and later on (or concurrent ;) ) smash through a carton of your favourites...

    If you have time, it probably wouldn't hurt to try this out.
    If you're like me, and work interferes with your social life regularly, I'd get ideas by calling around a few service centres first for an idea as to what they recommend..then discuss these thoughts/suggestions with mates...
    It'll be hard for them to give you an exact idea over the phone, as they'll need to see the bike in person.

    But most fundamental of all, if your tyres are not roadworthy, you'll need to either tow/trailer your bike mate...or get Bruce, a Netrider member (someone help out here with his handle, thanks) who can come to you !
    Lots of help within the forum mate.
  5. Get a hold of the owners/service manual for your bike and go through the periodic maintenance and service interval parts if you want a thorough list. Other things I can think of would be:
    • Drain the fuel and if there's none in the tank, check for rust.
    • Check fuel, coolant and brake lines for cracks or damage.
    • Check/replace/repack wheel and head stem bearings.
    • Check/replace spark plugs.
    • Lube throttle and clutch cables.
  6. Many thanks Nickers, I am keen to do basics where no safety issues are involved as it'll help me learn the bike if nothing else, then get the professionals to check out my handy work when it goes to them.

    I'd be keen to hear more about this Bruce fella...mobile mechanic or bike transport for hire?
  7. @MMMTS (Bruce) does tyre removal/fittings and also supplies them, can also come to you for fittings if you can't get to him, highly recommend if you need a new set of boots for the bike.

    Relevant thread here.

  8. Ahh forgot about fuel tank...that'll be fun...how would one clean rust in a fuel tank?
    (I also plan to put an in-line fuel filter on the bike if it doesn't have one already as a general precaution regardless).

    Thanks for the info Strife
  9. Ahh awesome, I'll be sure to give him a ring once the bike is at the stage to go in to the mechanics, thanks!
  10. What has been said.

    Dump all oil, fuel and replace sparkplugs.

    Remove spark plugs and add a couple of drops of oil into the head then turn the crank (Put in gear and turn the rear wheel, leaving sparkplugs out whilst you do this) to lube the piston and ensure there is no fuel/oil build up.

    Why: a mate has just had the same situation, bike had been sitting for around 9 months, fuel had filled one cylinder, tried starting bike and suffered a hydraulic lock in cylinder, resulted in bent valves.
  11. I'd been wondering if it would be bad to try and start a bike that had been sitting for so long which would have literally no oil film whatsoever at the top of the engine...If I go that far myself, I'll definitely put a few drops of oil in each cylinder!

    Anything else I can do to make it as easy on the engine internals when starting it for the first time in so long?
  12. https://www.box.com/s/rhsb2lq07ukh9e8gnijw/3/599910098/5715677872/1

    download button at the top to memory.....been awhile since i uploaded that so i forget....Your welcome...enjoy the bike - having just gone through it myself if you use a radiator flush solution make sure you flush the cooling system out good and proper before you refill with coolant again.
  13. Only problem is that will only lube the cylinder bores, there's still the issue of the head/cams etc being a bit on the dry side.

    Chances are there is still a film of oil anyway, but if you wind it over for 30 seconds to a minute or so with the plugs out (using the starter), it should get some oil flowing to the top end. No compression with the plugs out so the starter should spin it over very easily and pretty quick.

    It might drain the battery a bit so be prepared to trickle charge the battery afterwards, or jump it from a car battery.
  14. Awesome thanks guys, has given me plenty to get thinking