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What to do, What to ride

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' at netrider.net.au started by devisionz, Oct 5, 2008.

  1. Hey all,

    Well I have finally bought all my riding gear, have had my L's for a while now and really need to get on a bike so I can move onto P's and full license and just get out there riding and enjoying myself.

    I just don't know what to do, I have been looking at second hand bikes and that seems to be the best way to go but I just need to catch a deal before it goes, the other thing is I would need someone to come check out the bikes with me as besides going over a checklist that is on netrider here I wouldn't have a clue as to how to pick problems. I might have someone who rides that can help but have to double check that he is available.

    There is the option of a new bike but it seems people on here highly recommend that new riders don't go that route.

    In terms of riding, I will be riding to work (usually under 10 or 20 mins but can vary), to tafe in the city (40 mins away) and longer rides on the weekends around the place. I'd like to get out on the trails on weekends but not sure if that would happen for a while so realistically I would be just be riding the roads for sometime.

    VTR 250's seem to be recommended by a lot of people on here and is the main road bike I have been looking at, not sure what else I can look at on the road side of things.

    Trail bikes would be the suzuki dr-z 250/400e, yammy tt-r250.

    hopefully someone can lead me in the right direction, whether to go road/trail, 2nd hand/new or what other bikes to look at, as I'm really confused and just want to get riding.

    cheers guys
  2. i would suggest that you look at the GPX 250 as another possibility for a road bike. (I swear i'm not biased :grin: )

    they are cheaper than the VTR, both to buy and to repair, and there are many many net riders on here to give testament to how good they are to ride. there are plenty for sale, so a bargain is sure to come up sooner or later. I got mine, a 1998 model with 16000 on the clock, for $3500, and aside from a few niggly problems like clutch cable needing adjustment and the front wheel guard losing a bolt, it has been a great bike to ride.

    oh, and if you ride one, all the ladies will want to sleep with you... :bolt:

    :LOL: :LOL: Lobby
  3. I might change bikes! :)
  4. I like new bikes because of the warranty and you know its mechanical history. The recommendation to go second hand is often from people who are going to upgrade as soon as they can. If you plan to keep a bike for a while new could be better.
    I had to start with a 250 but now vic has LAMS I'd look at the KLE500, the DRZ's or the GS500.
  5. There's nothing wrong with buying new, if it's cheap or at least if you can afford it.. I'm mechanically hopeless myself, that's why I prefer to buy either new, or if second hand, at least new enough to be still covered by the warranty.

    While there is an argument that buying new you take the immediate hit on the resale value, if the whole thing only costs a couple of thousand, who cares? And another thing is, I strongly recommend to everyone the way to go is to have at least two bikes - one for fun and one for daily grind. If you decide to go that route you don't need to get rid of your first bike - just keep it as a commuter. This way you don't need to worry about resale values, because they only mean anything if you're actually selling.
  6. Now that the new LAMS system is in place, it means that you dont necesarily have to get a 250c bike. They are however a good strating place. I cant see what your age is on your profile, but if you are at the younger, less experienced end of the driving scene then perhaps aim for a 250cc. Some people who have been driving for 10 or 15 year try for a 500cc under the LAMS, so they will be less inclined to change bikes after just a year and lose money in the change over.

    The VTR 250's are in my opinion, nicest of the 250cc bikes (ducks for cover). You also couldn't go wrong with a gpx or zzr 250. The VTR's have no fairing which means if you drop it you probably wont have a couple of thousand dollar repair bill. These bikes are all very reliable, just try to buy one without a heap of km's on it and make sure you pay a reasonable price relative to what else is available (read haggle hard!!).

    If you need some assistance, see the 'pay it forward' thread for somone in your area who might be able to assist you assessing a bike.

  7. Welcome to the forum mate!!

    +1 to what Lobsta said, including the biased part. :LOL:

    The new 2008 GPX250 has put some downwards pressure on second hand prices of 2007 and before GPX250s. You will be able to get a good bargain if you haggle hard. The bike is bullet-proof, idiot-proof, slurps at 4l/100km and has a 400km range. A $20 sprocket change will see the bike happily sit on 110kph all day. Parts are abundant, so drops need not be that expensive (relative to a larger bike).

    I am also rather partial to the all-purpose KLE500, although the second-hand market is quite illiquid (i.e. less to choose from, harder to sell privately when the time comes). Having said that though, the bike has the same bullet-proof engine as the GPX, just twice in size. About 330km range and with knobblies instead of road tyres. Learner friendly.

    Only buy new if you plan on keeping it for 5-7 years. Otherwise the depreciation will be unjustifiable. I bought a second-hand bike with 5000kms on it for 60% of the ride-away price. You’re doing the right thing taking your time – wait for a bike that takes your fancy, at a price you can’t ignore.

    Good luck mate!

  8. in the current market it seems to be more than a couple of thousand you can lose.

    I just bought a 2 yr old z750 with very low km's and an aftermarket pipe - I paid almost exactly 5K less than he paid for it new.
  9. As one of the loudest proponents of the 'buy secondhand' school I thought I'd stick my oar in. It's true that the LAMS bikes do help a bit, especially the ones that can be derestricted. But unless one of those perfectly fits your needs and desires, you're going to be champing at the bit to upgrade when you can anyway. Given that, and given how much there is to lose buying new and selling in a couple of years, I'd advise only doing it if (a) you're pretty sure you will want to keep your first bike for more like 4-5 than 1-2 years and (b) you have money to burn (and not borrowed money either).

    The flipside of the advice to buy sceondhand is definitely the advice to always get a mechanic's check of a bike including a compression test before handing over the dough. Do that and maintain it well and it pretty much deals with the 'buy new to avoid problems' argument.
  10. I used a company called inspectabike or something like that.

    Actually the seller i bought off included let me have an independant inspection as part of the sale. :)

    The guy who runs the business is based in Sydney and he charges about $100 for the inspection.

    However there are a numebr of options for getting bike inspections out there. Although at this time of the year you may need to book like 2 weeks in adv.

    oh and
    +2 to what Lobsta and speed_demon said, including the biased part. :grin:

    From what you have said i say just get a second hand 250 learner road bike for now. Even if you want to go trail riding later as it is only a maybe. 250's are easy to sell and if you get a second hand one you should sell it to a similar price to which you bought it for. ...on the premise that you don't total stuff it up.
  11. 250 VTR, secondhand. :)
  12. I totally agree....except I would go further and say the perfect combo (IMHO) is a big bike (750cc+)and a 100cc+ scooter.
  13. The boogaloo, and hot chicks.
  14. Wow thank you all for the replies.

    I had a look at the GPX 250's that were suggested but I'm not too keen on them although they do look pretty good value, id prefer something naked.

    I was offered a drz 250 for 7k on road new and a few people I have talked to said that its pretty good value and should go for it. I have the money for it but as others said in here I loose so much on it that if i sell it in under 12-24 months it wouldn't be worth it. Most VTR 250s I have seen in relatively good condition are around the higher 6000-7000 mark which is close to a new drz.

    Just out of interest, how much would a second hand vtr (06/07 model say with 4 to 6k km) loose value in 12 months and as opposed to a new drz if anyone has an idea.

    Is someone able to quickly explain how you would go about organising a mechanic to run tests on a bike, whether you would have to put a deposit down most likely first or what the general way of doing it is.

    Cheers everyone for taking the time to reply.
  15. On the last question, I've typically asked the seller to organise it and said I'll pay for them. I give them a deposit on the bike that covers the cost of the test. They retain control of the bike and take it in to be tested, pass on the written report to me (or I can go in and talk to the bike shop), and if all is satisfactory I'll go ahead with the purchase. If a seller refuses a check or tries to dissuade you, that would ring alarm bells for me in itself.