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What leather conditioner, and where to buy? Dubbin?

Discussion in 'Riding Gear and Bike Accessories/Parts' started by jekyll, Jul 18, 2007.

  1. Hi,

    been looking for a good leather conditioner for my gear, and having difficulty locating it.

    Two questions:

    1) What should I use? I found some "Dubbin" at the local AGL and applied that, only to read conflicting advice about whether it's harmful ...

    Note that conditioning + some waterproofing would be preferred.

    2) Where should I get it? The manufacturer of my jacket recommends this range: http://www.foxcreekleather.com/leathercare.phtml but I don't wanna pay through the ass for shipping ...


    oh, and does the Dubbin i just applied do bad things to my jacket?

  2. I used Dubbin a few times on my leathers. Turned out I was allergic to it, but my leathers are fine. It's fine on my skin, but the vapours get to my eyes, even doing it outside.

    I've now gone back to what I started on: WikWax. It's like Dubbin, but a bit harder, so you might want to have a heatpack/wheatbag under it to make applying it easier. WikWax is available at hiking stores.

    I found both cleaned the leather at the same time, unless there was a heap of crap - I'd use plain water first.

    I was also recommended to use Renapur by my bike shop. I haven't tried it yet.
  3. Sno-seal will help make leather more waterproof, but it is not really a conditioner as such. You would probably need to get some leather conditioner from a furniture seller or upholsterer or suchlike. Maybe saddlery? Conditioner first, then Sno-seal.
  4. Renapur works really well.

    Apply it in mid summer when the temp is 40 or so. Goes on easy and soaks right in.
  5. Any leather treatment product based on beeswax should be good (I think Renapur is). Dubbin is based on animal fat which is why it can cause stitching to rot (which is bad for leathers obviously).
  6. I have used sno seal on hiking boots for years and it is the absolute best stuff in the world. I have had my boots since I was 17 and besides 4 resoles the leaher is still waterproof. [I am 41 now].

    I have also used the stuff I got for my leather couch to clean and protect my jacket and that seems to be quite OK, cleaned it up a beauty. Gotta look good! :cool: :cool:
  7. According to the unscientific research I've been doing, this is really only an issue for non-synthetic stitching, and pretty much all modern jackets use nylon or similar - so shouldn't be an issue generally.

    That's it for me answering my own questions. Now where can you buy this Renapur stuff?
  8. You could try a saddlery. Lots of leather care required if you run horses and a horse is almost as hostile and corrosive an environment as a bike.
  9. thanks, good idea. Not sure where to find a saddlery in the Sydney CBD though ... tried a furniture shop and all they had was bad polyurethane spray shit.
  10. It's just bad urban myth that dubbin rots stitching. Read about it here -> http://www.johan-potgieter.com/dubbin.shtml

    There's plenty of forum inches around stating that dubbin does rot stitching, but you'll be hard pressed to find anyone who has actually had it happen.

    I've also got renapur - it's more expensive - but I can't see any difference in what it does for leather.

    Sno seal and nikwax are also recommended by many.
  11. I think snakegal sells renapur.... send her a PM :)
  12. hmmm, where can 1 find this Sno Seal?

    and dont say @ a Snow shop :p

    ok so im bloody tired after a long day workin, is this stuff from ur general hiking shop, aussie disposals or something?

  13. try here

  14. I'v e heard Lanoguard is good - not just for leather but vynil, tools etc. Its waterproofs, rustproofs and conditions apparently. Apparently its produced naturaly by shep to waterproof and condtion their wool???
  15. Sno_seal is the bomb babeeeeeeeee

    Get it from Rays outdoors.

    Grab a hairdryer......yes there is one in our house and no it doesnt belong to me :p

    Heat a portion of the leather that you are going to treat and then work the snoseal into that bit. Then move onto the next bit till its all covered.

    Then grab an old tea towel and buff your leathers till they are no longer "tacky"

    Run your leathers under a tap just coz its cool to watch the water bead off :)

    Seriously, when I did my pants before they SHRUNK ;) I only ever had to treat them every 12 months and they remained waterproof.

    That was back when I was younger, leaner, fitter, sexier...........ok ok, when I was new to riding and riding everyday ;)
  16. Ahem. Yes, you've got a point. Forgot to check your location. Living on the Eastern fringes of Perth where keeping horses is one of the compulsory post-retirement activities (the others being golf and fishing, so I'm gonna be stuffed in twenty years, not being interested in any of them), it's hard to go anywhere without stumbling across such an establishment so I tend to take them for granted.
  17. I found renapur in the BMW / Triumph dealership on the Pacific Hwy, for $25. Seems like good stuff so far ... thanks all
  18. Oh, so it's "dust" rots the stitching, not the animal fat in the Dubbin. Yeah right :roll:.
    The advantage of beeswax is that it contains antibiotics that prevent the growth of bacteria - animal fat encourages bacterial growth. Dubbin's probably fine if the leather's looked after, but if you're the sort of person that just chucks wet or sweaty leathers in a pile somewhere using something that'll stop stuff growing on them would certainly make sense ;).
  19. Is there any type of leather conditioner that will soften the leather and loosen it a bit? Or do you just have to wear it in and stretch it by using it? Mine is a bit uncomfortable because it is a bit tight in some places as I move my body around the bike when cornering.