Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

What is this called?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by HunkyDory, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. Hey guys,

    Part of my mod idea was to put some LED's under the body. Anyway, my question was, is it possible to find (picture describes below) this.

    [​IMG]

    I'm trying to find that "On/off switch" box/mechanism that will let me plug in all 4 of the led strips (red/black) wires) and redirect this into 1 simple (either black/red) cable or some other cable to run to the battery, with, obviously the functionality of actually turning the 4 outbound LED strips on and off.



    Is there a name for it or is it even possible? My first thought was how can 1 red/black cable accommodate (power-wise) for the 4 red/black cables that it will need to be redirected out to?

    I have no electrical experience so please don't flame me if it's an easy solution. It would also be greatly appreciated if you were able to send me on my eBay way to the cheapest one I can purchase which would help me get the job done? :D

    Thank you all,
    Adam.
     
     Top
  2. i'm retarded when it comes to these thing's however i'm fairly sure you'd be able to find something at jaycar

    http://www.jaycar.com.au/printed.asp

    you can download the **** off sized catalogue there
     
     Top
    • Like Like x 1
  3. No worries, I'll give it a good browse! :D - P.S. : MY GOD IT'S 240MB, LOL! Give me a good day to sift through it all. :p

    If anyone knows the name though, would be handy for future reference. :)
     
     Top
  4.  Top
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Couldn't you just run them in one circuit/sequence whatever you call it, and use any normal switch? I used to be way into electronics but the years have not been kind to my memory, can't really remember much of what I used to know
     
     Top
    • Like Like x 1
  6. what you are looking for is this little item brought to you by RHOK - its a 5 way connector

    contact Ian - the contact details are here http://rhok.com.au/contact us.htm
     

    Attached Files:

     Top
  7. I shouldn't take you too long to find a connector block.

    Just a quick tip, once you have got it all wired correctly/tested and worked out where your going to mount the blocks and relay, dont forget the fuse between the main power and relay as well as a fuse from your switched power source [ as close to the power pickup point as possible ]
    Then water proof it all as best as you can, better to be safe than sorry :angel:
     
     Top
  8. Dawww, it looks soo much more complicated. :(

    Especially because I'll have to end up putting a negative line from the battery to the main distribution block anyway... :(
     
     Top
  9. The frame of the bike is negative so you can pick up a negative by attaching to the metal frame.

    SydMadAss125's method allows expansion, is fused for safety and switches off with the ignition so that heated grips etc don't drive the battery flat.

    Your situation is a little easier.
    1: You don't need to switch the negatives they can be combined together and connected to frame.
    2: The positives can all be connected together and then connected into the switch. If you can not fit all the wires into a switch then use a connector block as others have said.
    3: Any additional equipment should be fused, an in line fuse is cheap insurance against an electrical fire.
     
     Top
  10. I think I may have found a much cheaper and easier workaround to the problem! :D My mate had confirmed that this will work but I'm still sceptical.

    [​IMG]

    Using LED's like HERE and two switches from HERE, I can run a manual on/off switch system that'll be quick to install and remove if need be. The main thing I need to focus on is making sure that all connections from the switches are secured and waterproof.

    Does anyone have an doubts on this idea?

    Thanks,
    Adam.
     
     Top
  11. Did you really want two switches?
    Those switches are not waterproof and the Neon indicators inside them will not work at 12 volt.
    You need switches that are IP65 or above weather rated to prevent water getting in to the electrics.
    It is NOT a good idea to have an unfused circuit the circuit should be fused close to the battery to protect the wiring from a short causing melting and possible fires.

    Diagram1.
     
     Top
  12. I listed 2 switches because I didn't realise I could hook up potentially 10 wires (5red+5black) to 1 switch.

    I guess to compromise, I'll have to add in this inline fuse. Would this one work? :-O

    And I'm hoping that this switch is okay to connect all 10 wires to? :D

    Thank you!
    Adam.
     
     Top
  13. Yes that should be OK.

    Switch is OK, the wires for the LED strips are quite small so you may be able to get the ten of them on the one connector. If you can't then you need to use a terminal block as previously discussed. The terminal block is just a way of connecting wires together.

    The negatives, black wires, need to go back to the negative on the battery. This is the frame of the bike and engine as well so you only need to connect these to a significant metal part of the frame.

    The switch only needs to switch the positive.

    Good Luck.
     
     Top
  14. OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

    I get it now! Sorta. ^^ So the switch and inline fuse only deals with the positive side of things.

    With the negative though, (sorry I didn't quite understand), do I HAVE to connect to the battery or can I just make contact with a close-by negative component on the bike, e.g. like you said, the frame?

    Thanks for all the help. :)
    Adam.
     
     Top
  15. Yes just to the frame is fine Adam. All the frame of the bike is tied to the negative of the battery. Make sure you get a good connection though. If the frame has a coating may not be conductive so generally where a bolt screws in to the frame is best.
     
     Top
    • Like Like x 1
  16. Negative only needs to go to the frame/major metal part of the bike.. (dont go attaching it to a licence plate bolt expecting it to work) also you will want to make sure there is no paint in between the negative wire and metal frame.. this will also cause sadness.

    my 2c.. bringing all 5 positives back to one or two switches will be messy and a cause for loose wires and intermittent problems.. a distribution block will help to keep things neat and tidy and also trace any problems down the track or on install.
     
     Top
  17. go with cjv or watever his name is advice mate,
    i would use a household 240 type type screw joiner, only because i trust them.
    led power has very low power draw so just bung them all together as many as you want.
    also solder would make it sweet "and less sadness".
     
     Top
  18. also the negative to frame is only an option , so if you happen to have twin
    core cable and your running direct from the battery there is no need to - whatever is neatest, simplest ,easiest ...
    fuse size is important - do you need help with that?
     
     Top
  19. Seems like I will. :p I'm guessing I have to find the appropriate fuse size, according to how many extra LED's I'm going to run? D:
     
     Top
  20. Yes, each LED strip will have a rating, usually this will be in milliwatts, add them together to get total power and then divide by the voltage (12) to get total current. Then pick a fuse next highest in range.
     
     Top