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wannabe rider with few questions

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by abvc, Dec 15, 2006.

  1. hi guys, i found this forum by accident which surprised me that it is what i am looking for. However I have few questions that I cant find the answers:

    1. what are the real process to get a learner license?
    2. how to switch the gear to neutral?

    as a background, i'm an experienced manual car driver.

    Thanks heaps!.

  2. Let's start by asking what state you are in, because the process is diferent for each state.

    As for nutral there is a nutral spot in the gearbox as apposed to a car that is nutral between gears. there is a light that comes on to say when you are innutral.
  3. OK, well first of all welcome to Netrider; we don't care if you find the forum by accident or not, but it's good that you did.

    Now, in order to answer you question about L plates we need to know the state in which you reside; laws are different in each state.

    Neutral is always found one 'click' below 2nd, or one above 1st in a standard '1-down 5-up' gearbox.
  4. oh my state is VIC.

    so for example, can I jump to neutral from 4?

  5. Are you trying to find the neutral in a cb250???

    Almost impossible. What I do is get it down to first and after I stopped give it a bit of throttle while moving the gear level gently.

    The only way I can do it.

  6. No you can't; a motorcycle gearbox is what's called a constant-mesh gearbox and gears must be changed in sequence, up and down. You can, for example, change down twice or three times heading down to a set of lights, but it would be down to 5th, then 4th then 3rd, not straight from 6th to second, for example.....
  7. yeah usually when i drive, i put the gear to neutral and control the brake... can the same approach be done in motorcycle?

    and with 1 down 5 up gear, does it mean after gear 1, i need to pull up twice to get to gear 2?

  8. Nope, firts to neutral and second to neutral is sort of half a click

    you shouldnt be doing this in a (manual) car or bike, very bad habit and wears the brake pads faster. also if you have to accelerate quickly to get out of trouble it takes that second longer to click in to gear.
  9. yeah i kinda imagine it's kinda hard to quickly jump from n to 3 in a bike, while in car it's pretty easy.

    the good thing in car. imo, is it eliminate gear switching, therefore the car moves smoother and less work on left foot/clutch
  10. Unless you've got a new FJR1100, whereas neutral is below first... :roll:
  11. Abvc, to get your Ls, do the two day Ls course. There's a few places around in Melbourne. There's a cople here https://netrider.net.au/?page=partners&BusinessType=Training. The VicRoads website all the info you need to know (http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/Licensing/GettingYourLs/MotorcycleLearnerPermit.htm). I went to HART (Honda Australia Rider Training) because I had it recommended to me. I found the entire process to be really good with them. I'm sure the others aren't much different. Its about $240 for the two day course during the week. You cover theory then they ease you into riding (slowly). You practice riding, changing gears, changing direction, braking, some road craft (more theoretical but you try and apply it to the closed circuit you practice on) then you do the written and practical tests on the second day.
  12. It is not really good form to do this in a car, but it really can't be done on a bike. You cna only force the box to push a little further than your curent gear, the meshing is very diferent.

    As for getting your L's (And learning about all of this) if you contact your nearest rider training center (HART, Stay Upright, DECA,...) they will have an introductory day that leads into the L plate course day. All of this will get covered in the intro day. first learn the basics and then the context for these sort of questions will become apparent. then you'll be more focused on the practicle how to get the best/safest from your bike and not the theory of what can you do.
  13. i meant that for example, on speed 60 km/h, i switch to neutral, then if the traffic speed pick up, i switch to the appropriate gear again. or approaching to red light, i switch to n from 3 or 4. is it possible?
    yeah i got better understanding of the process of getting an L. thanks!
  14. Its a sequential gearbox so you can't skip gears. The only way to neutral from 4th is to pull in the clutch lever, tap down to second then lightly tap to neutral. I said lightly because if you tap harder/normally, you'll put it in first.

    I'd never recommend coasting along in neutral / with no power though.
  15. And if you're lazy like me you could get a kawasaki, they have positive neutral finders so once you click down to first, clicking up in any amount (half, 1, 5, 10), you'll always be in neutral. Then clicking down is back into first, no matter how many times you clicked up. Handy, but the sacrifice is you can't take off from 2nd unless you only shift down to second as you stop.
  16. I sometimes just pull the clutch in and coast on the bike, then either just let the clutch back out or downshift depending on how fast I'm going... I suppose that's similar to what you're talking about abvc. So yes it can be done, but not using neutral, just by pulling in the clutch...

    It's actually quite fun going down a big hill then pulling in the clutch and havin gthe pillion freak out because the engine noise has died away suddenly even though we're speeding up...
  17. wow sounds great. my dream bike is also a kawasaki zzr250, but got nocash atm lol. thinking of saving for a brand new and rolll! probably in 5-10 mth :(

    pete: yeah that is very similar
  18. Thats what I have, its a sweet ride but I urge you to consider second hand as well as a gpx. A gpx is mechanically identical, its only aesthetically different (gpx is a bit smaller). But you can pick up a spanking new gpx for 6300, 6150 if you push them. A zzr new can be 7000-8000 and sometimes more with ORC.

    I bought my 02 for 5000 with 18000 clocked, cant complain. But after 2 months of Ls I'm already salivating at 600cc bikes and planning my upgrade. But if you are of the ilk that doesn't feel the need for speed and thus would feel comfortable on a zzr250 for 2 years or more, in that case new would be good.

    Just good to avoid the steepest part of the depreciation curve. I intend to get a 600 as soon as I'm off restrictions. PM me or add me to msn for a chat if you like.
  19. Ok, my 2c.

    I had a ZZR250 for 18 months. It's a great bike, comfortable, reliable, stable, and looks a treat. Not a bad choice indeed.

    However, do not buy a new bike as your first. Especially if you have little/no real riding experience. Due to the stupidity and general ignorance/arrogance of other road users, it will more than likely end up on it's side. A fully faired bike like the zzr can cop a fair bit of damage even from a minor spill, like I found out myself, and fairings are not cheap.

    I wouldn't spent more than about 3.5k on a 250. That will get you a reasonable bike. You will most likely want to upgrade after you get your open license anyway. As you may well know, you would lose a fair bit of money on a new bike if you sold it a year or two later, even if you hadn't dropped it. It may be a good idea to seriously consider a naked bike. If you have your heart set on a zzr, then for your sake, get a secondhand one. The money you save will be much better spent on riding gear.

    The most important thing to remember when buying your first bike, is to budget for riding gear. An extra grand (or even two) would be ideal. That should let you buy some decent gear. I cannot stress the importance of good protective gear. It can mean the difference between walking away, and going to hospital to get all your skin put back on and bones set back in place. Not to mention a whole world of hurt, or even death.

    Another thing is bike security and insurance. A bike is a fairly easy thing to steal, so a good bike chain or cable lock is essential. I personally don't like disk locks, as they run the risk of damage. A disk lock will not stop a few guys from throwing you bike in the back of a ute or van either. If you don't want to get full comprehensive insurance, then at least get third party fire and theft. That way if you hit a porche or ferrari, you'll be covered. When it comes time to upgrade, just torch the sucker and blame it on punk teenagers. Collect the insurance money and boom, you're back on easy street. :p :LOL:

    Again, don't be too fussy on your first bike. In the long run you will be far better off.

    hmmmm... maybe that was more than just 2c. :grin:
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