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VTR250 no power!

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by tongnk, Mar 17, 2016.

  1. Hey guys,

    Bike was working on Wednesday fine when I was riding it. I did get hit with downpour for a short while on the way to work but still worked fine. Tried to start it today and it literally had no power at all - no headlights or the small red light that lights up normally when I turn the key to on.

    I've taken the battery out and recharged it but no luck. Was going to look at fuses next and if not may have to get someone to have a look at it. Was wondering if there was any suggestions of what I should try?

  2. put a multimeter across the battery after charging.. if it is below 12.xV, it's rooted.

    if it7s 12.5V or so, then battery is probably ok.
    install battery, turn key to on and check voltage across battery again. if it didn't go down, then it's wiring/fuses
    • Agree Agree x 2
  3. Agree with oldcorollas, charge the battery and check its holding a charge and all the cells are working (ie 12-13v).

    If nothing lights up then check your fuses, the bike should have a ~30A main fuse before any other smaller minor system fuses.
    After that I would be focussing on any grounds or connectors which may have come loose.
  4. if stored outside, has someone tried to nick it, and stuffed your ignition key wiring?
  5. Kill switch on?

    Then Oldcorolla's test battery voltage. Then check main fuse which is separate to the other fuses, usually in the starter solenoid casing.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. So I just checked the battery, 12V. Installed + turned on switch, no drop. Checked the fuse box and pulled each one out to check (why are they so hard to remove?) and they all look good according to the manual. Going to have a look at the main fuse but can't figure out for the life of me how I take the box apart without breaking the plastic?
  7. Kill switch - was the first thing I tested to make sure

    Ignition wiring - didn't see any signs of someone fiddling around?
  8. Corrosion of the main earth - first and easiest thing to check. Fuses - you've done. Power TO the ignition switch (checking that THAT wire hasn't had a failure along its length). If you have power that far and you get no lights at all, it points to the switch). Older bikes can be hot-wired to confirm whether it is the switch. Some newer bikes with "smart" ECUs preclude this possibility. (You've already eliminated the possibility of a flat battery)

    It is unlikely that all of the earth connections involved in lights, indicators, would have given up at the same time. If you are thinking kill switch failure. I've yet to see a kill switch that kills more than the engine.

    A wiring diagram is useful to identify the function of wires.

    I've had this problem a couple of times. Once found it was corrosion at the main earth (where the battery attaches to the frame) another time, bridged the light circuit at the switch from the power wire that goes to the switch. The lights worked with the bridge (short bit of wire with a couple of alligator clips or probes at the ends) I could in turn make various things work, pulled the switch apart to find it had corrosion in it, cleaned it, put a bit of "grease" on the contacts and it all worked again) I think another time a wire had corroded off a connector.

    BUT don't let me convince you it is the switch. It only could be. Do your own homework.
    • Informative Informative x 1

  9. Hey Nick,

    I have a similar problem, did you find a solution ?

    I just found my Vtr250 completely out of power. I left the key on and the battery was dead. So I charged the battery two days ago. The battery holds the charge easy. I've checked the voltage of the battery when switching it on, it has no effect on the voltage. So it could be wiring or fuse... I'll go and check that but i haven't done anything to the bike for a week, there are no reasonable reason for a problem in the wiring or fuse...

    Any suggestion ?

    Thank you,

  10. No power at all when you turn on your ignition? I'm assuming your bike has a light that comes on when you turn on the ignition (lots of modern bikes do - the headlight is hard wired (via a relay) to the ignition switch. Turn on the ignition, the light comes on. Bikes don't generally blow fuses when sitting, ignition off, and untended. However, if you have a wiring fault causing a short circuit, it is possible to blow a main fuse while charging. Rust never sleeps. Connections can corrode when it is wet and humid. minor electrical issues can become large ones going into the wetter time of the year.

    I would look at, in this order:

    Main earth - where the negative connects to the frame. If this connection is corroded, a fully charged battery will not provide power to the electrics, as the frame of the bike provides the return circuit.

    If your main fuse is OK and the earth is OK, I'd identify the "live" wire that goes to the ignition. A wiring diagram is handy - it will identify the wires by colour. See if power is reaching the switch. if it is, then the problem might be the ignition switch itself. If it isn't, then the wire may be damaged along its length - more usually it will be a problem at a connector - wires are often in a bundled "loom" and this is usually routed so as to avoid pinches and rubs - something to look for, particularly if you have in the past disturbed anything, like by removing the tank for servicing.

    Ignition switches are complicated things, but are exposed to the weather. Water gets into them. Contacts become dirty, can corrode. Much simpler switches can prevent a bike from starting (though might not kill ALL power) Your Kill switch is easily accessible, as is your clutch lock out switch and side stand switch (neutral safety switch) . These can usually be fairly easily unplugged and tested to see whether they are breaking and making circuit as they should. Worth a try before you do anything to your ignition switch to see whether you have a contact corrosion there, but as I mentioned before, these other switches might not be capable of killing all bike power.

    You will find a multimeter and wiring diagram helpful. No multimeter? Even a 12 volt globe in a fitting with a couple of leads with alligator clips on (or an alligator clip on one, and a probe on another, so that you can see where power is getting will often do the job, by connecting the clip end to the frame (the earth) and probing the wire which is expected to be live at the connection end.

    NB. Don't use this rig on the connections of the ECU, and don't connect it to a live wire, or you may feed power to something that doesn't like it. To test this primitive continuity tester, connect the alligator clip to the negative of the battery, probe the positive. The globe should light. then move the alligator clip to the frame of the bike, probe the positive terminal of the battery. It should light. If it doesn't, then suspect your main earth connection - where the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the frame.

    As a general principle, test the easy things first, even if they seem unlikely. Do WAY more testing and research than ripping things apart looking for faults within things. It is easy to cause new problems if you just leap to conclusions about where the fault might be and start taking things apart looking for the source of the problem.

    I'm no expert. If there is a problem with the ECU, then that is way beyond the scope of what I can tell you.

    I hope this helps.
    • Agree Agree x 1