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VTR250 Mods - Indicators

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by Arik, Jun 13, 2006.

  1. Hey guys,
    My "easy to put back to stock when you sell it" modding project on the baby storm continues...

    So far I've done
    Staintune Pipe & refinished header pipe
    Added winscreen

    Now I've swapped the stock indicators for some groovy mini clear indicators. Makes a huge difference IMO, as the old blinkers were huge bahgwahn basement 'parts bin' jobbies. Made the rearset in particular look nasty.

    WARNING non VTR owners may find this really, really dull.

    So - I got some rubber stalk clear turn signals (the rubber stalk means they will fit nicely over the not-quite-right stock holes. I got mine at Redwing, about 55 bucks for front and rear (despite vowing to never return to redwing actually the new expanded shop is pretty cool).

    here's a walkthru - didn't think to take piccies as I was doing it, but will post the results soon. (free image server, anyone?).

    Indicator Mod.

    1. remove stock indicators (rear)
    - a phillips head screw on the underside of the stock indicators holds them onto a short metal pin. On the rearset these metal pins are themselves bolted onto the plastic housing and are easily removed to give you a nice clean hole. On the front the metal pins are fixed to the headlight mount and don't come off - more on these later.
    Use a large phillips head to remove the indicators as the locking screws are soft and burr easily, and you may want to re-install the stock indicators at some point.

    - unwiring means threading the stock cables back through the base of the rearset. Open the cavernous VTR 'cargo bay'. fossick around in the cable-tidy and you can easily unplug the indicator connectors and thread the cable back out of the base of the rearset bingo - off come the rear indicators.
    - you should be left with two holes on either side ready for the aftermarket indicators. If you bought aftermarket indicators with rubber stalks they will 'give' a little and cover up the fact that the mating surface on the rearset is not absolutely flat. Don't worry, once you tighten the rubber against the plastic rearset the rubber will give and mount flush.

    Remove stock indicators (front)
    you will need to remove the headlight housing to access the wiring. Three phillips head screws around the edge of the headlight allow you to remove the glass/chrome surround - it should hang down onto the front mudguard and be out of your way. There are some cable tidys inside the headlight housing that you can pull out of the way.
    Follow the indicator cables in thru the back of the headlight housing and remove one at a time (makes it easier to plug the new ones in to the right cables).
    Pull cables back though the rear of the headlight housing and off come the old indicators.

    2 Install new indicators (rear)
    Rear install is a cinch, except for getting the cable back through the small holes in the bottom of the rearset/cargo bay.
    I recommend poking some string thru the holes first as a guide wire, then sticky-taping the cables to the string and pulling them thru that way.
    The aftermarket indicators have a hollow stem with the cables routed through. The connectors are identical to the stock ones so once you have routed the cables though the access holes plug, it's easy to connect them to the wiring loom - test, then tighten the nut holding the indicator to the rearset.
    You may want to have the bike level and squat down to make sure the indicators are level and even (bit of wiggle room there because of the rubber mating surface on the indicator stalks). test again, tighten then tidy the cables back into the plastic cable tidy. re-attach seat, rear indicators done.

    You may wish to have a beer/ciggie at this point, stare at the bike, congratulate yourself for being handy, etc.

    Install Front indicators
    These are a bit trickier as the stock mounting pins will run close to where the new indicators will sit and prevent them from mounting square. I would reccommend against just knocking this mounting pin off as without it the stock indicators won't go back on again.

    Instead of hacking into the bike I used a craft knife to plane the bottom of the aftermarket indicator stalk (you only need to remove like 2-4 mm of rubber for the length of the pin). This allows the indicator to rest on the stock mounting pin whilst it's bolt fits neatly through the stock mounting hole. Bonza.
    Run the aftermarket indicator wires through the back of the headlight housing, connect, test, tighten, test, tighten again.
    Re-fit the headlight - there are alignment marks on either side of the headlight so you can tell it's in the right position.
    Getting the front ones on is easy once you have flattened the bottom of the indicator stalks, the cables looked like they were going to be too short (they were about 150mm long but this was plenty in the end. If you wanted to be really anal you could run some heatshrink over the indicator cables as they are a separate pair rather than one sealed cable.

    These aftermarket indicators are no way near as bulky as the stock ones and don't sit out anywhere near as far, plus they're not that poxy "Captain Saftey" orange color. Still very noticeable and bright. Front and rear of the bike look quite different. Horn.

    Lowered drag coefficient has upped my top speed no considerably, as a wind-tunnel test with a 1:25 scale model confirmed.

    HIghly recommended cosmetic mod.


  2. exhaust

    how do you find the staintune?

    i've been quoted $650 which seems like an awful lot?

    Have you / did you look at drilling the stock exhaust OR removing the baffle? From what I can tell its a messy job as its not removable so you'd need to attack it with a grinder etc.

    - also sound may be dodgy / backfiring! STILL $650...... ?
  3. I drilled the std muffler on my old vtr, it made it louder, but it doesn't quite have the same note as an aftermarket pipe.

    Get a madaz pipe if you're chasing a great noise.
  4. Would love to see pics of this mod, and also some more details on the indicators you bought - a brand name or something.
  5. can u get those Madaz pipes here in SYdney?
    any idea if they're cheaper than the staintune? - i reckon thats too expensive, I'm into modified cars etc too and $650 for a can is crazy talk in my book - value for money wize/