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VTR250 electrical troubles

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Fletcher114, Jun 14, 2014.

  1. Hi all, I have very little understanding of motorcycle electrics, Ive been having a lot of trouble with my VTR250's battery and/or rectifier/regulator (R/R). I've looked at similar threads but have had no luck in finding a solution... :(
    Here's where I'm at:
    -After having not rode it for a while the bike was absolutely dead when the ignition was turned on (no lights, no nothing), found the main 30A fuse blown, every time I replaced the fuse it would blow.
    -Wiggled the wires to the R/R and it fixed the fuse blowing. Working again.
    -Bike died mid ride, had power, wouldn't start, flat battery.
    -Charged battery. Working but lights went super dim about 5 minutes into ride and bike died again, not enough charge to turn over.
    -Charged battery again, and just ran the bike in neutral to observe it. Smoke came from R/R. Turned off bike immediately.
    -Noticed ground wire from battery severed from the red/white wire leading to R/R. Went to put the ground wire back on but I don't know if i have to put it on the end of the red/white attached to the R/R or to the end of the wire leading away (its severed, and the ground wire has a splitter type device, could it possibly have to connect the severed red/white together?) That might not make much sense so I added a picture :)

    What could be causing the bike to die while in motion?

    *Note: The battery (1 year old) is not charging on the bike and is giving a reading of 12.5V bike not running (that's as high as I can charge it, which is enough to turn the bike over. The no-maintenance battery specifies it should contain a minimum charge of at least 12.8V). I don't want to buy a new battery and risk wrecking it if there's a possibility that my bike's electrics can do that to a new battery?


    Any help would be very, very much appreciated, this problem is making my hair fall out -_-
  2. Just ran a test on my R/R with the multimeter, and all of the diodes are still intact if that can shed any further light on things??
  3. Hi Fletcher, in case you haven't jump onto the welcome page and introduce yourself.
    It'll upset the locals if you haven't.

    On your bike issues. Is there any mods or aftermarket gear wired into your bike ?
    See if you can get an electrical diagram that identifies each of the wires that should be connected and their colour codes. I can't tell the colour of the main wire that you think the red & white one was connected to.
    It's not unusual for there to be links, but it is a bit unusual if the change colours. Fuses blowing would normally mean a major short. And the bike dying quickly with massive power drain would normally point to the same.
  4. Hey there Stever! Ahh no I haven't, but I'll be sure to do that :)

    The only aftermarket electrical components that it has are LED indicators integrated into the rear view mirrors. They were there when I bought the bike and I've been riding it for a year without any worries, so they weren't even a blip on my radar?
    I have the workshop manual, and I've been doing some reading just recently and I think I found a huge fault in the wiring.


    So as I indicated on the circuit diagram there, the wire is severed at the 'X', and I guess that one of the ends might be shorting on the frame or something? (I thought maybe it was meant to be cut or something :confused:) I'll be repairing severed wire tomorrow. I think maybe, since the R/R seems to be intact, that maybe the smoke I saw had something to do with the wire becoming severed (through heat?)?
    But I'm still confused as to what the white wire leading from the negative terminal of the battery (the white one with the blue clip in the pic) to the red/white wire of the R/R was there for? What do I do with it, it doesn't look right when you look at it on the circuit diagram? Isn't it meant to be earthed?
  5. Honestly, if that wire goes straight to the battery from the blue clip then I think you have some issues in the wiring loom, that blue connector doesn't look factory and more of a home made bodge job to fix another issues.

    Are you sure that the wire from the blue clip goes to the negative terminal of the battery?

    The red wire should be connected together. but if it goes to the positive and the wire from the blue clip to the negative then thats a dead short and you will blow the fuse. It shouldn't be wired that way.

    You need to go over the loom and have a good look for chafed/burnt wires.
  6. Hi Fletch, so looking at the diagram and your picture, the main wire goes to your battery/ chassis ground. The smaller red/white wire comes from the main fuse and must not connect to ground.
    Looking at the connector I'm guessing that there are two wires not connected.
    The 2nd wire that's broken may be a ground. What colour is it ?

    From the diagrams you found do they show the connector pin allocations ?
    That will help to ensure that you get them connected back in the correct spots.
    I'd be putting new terminals onto the 2 broken wires and locking them back into the plug. Extend them if you need to.
  7. mexiwi, I repaired the red/white cable. That blue clip is meant to be the ground for the negative terminal of the battery, who ever did the wiring previous to me buying this bike did something seriously wrong, I'm surprised a problem didn't result any sooner!

    Stever, I removed the blue clip from the circuit so it isn't connected to the red/white wire. There was only one broken wire, it was just severed. I did some reading, everything is connected properly now and it looks exactly like the circuit diagram (without the pencil writing)

    I'm just charging my battery now so that I can test the running voltage of my bike to make sure the regulator part of my R/R isn't dead.

    Where is the best place to connect the ground wire from the negative terminal of the battery to on the frame?
  8. So the bike runs fine, started no problem and didn't stall ( I just screwed the ground wire into a pre-existing hole on the frame?).
    When I check the voltage of the battery while the bike is running i get around 14V but when I turn the throttle the voltage goes down? Does that indicate a problem with the regulator and/or stator??
  9. Goes down? By how much?

    If it is dropping below 14v then it is not charging. It could be either stator or regulator. Disconnect the regilator and measure (AC Volts) between the three wires from the statir 1-2, 2-3, 3-1 while revving.

    The voltage should be much the same on all three measurements.
  10. I'll definitely run that test tomorrow thanks Chris :)
    Well its hard to say, it fluctuates like crazy, but it can drop as low as 12.5V :( My model doesn't have a tacho but I'm going to assume that the revs are irrelevant in this case?
    Could this lower voltage damage any of the other electrical components on my bike if I decide to be a lazy SOB and just keep my battery on the charger when I'm not riding, instead of buying a new regulator/rectifier unit?
  11. Yes shouldn't matter although most niles won't charge at idle they are designed to charge at running speeds.

    No, undervoltage is fairly safe, overvoltage will blow globes but the most sensitive part is the ECU and they tend to have a lot of self protection built in now days against voltage variation.

    You will reduce the life of your battery though if you start cycling it in charge too much.
  12. Oh good, that puts my mind at ease, I didn't want to be riding it around and causing more problems.
    Hmm yeah, I think my battery might be on the way out anyway, but it looks like I'll be needing a new regulator and/or stator regardless.
    Thanks for the help! :)
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