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VTR250 clutch plates replacement, now or later?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by smidge, May 18, 2008.

  1. hey all,



    i've got a spada workshop manual, and i'm assuming the process will be the same or similar so i won't ask a million questions, what i was hoping to find out was...

    i've got a vtr with 40,000k on it, dunno how old the clutch is, but it doesn't feel to crash hot. I've got replacement clutch plates, is it worth just putting them in anyway as they cost me next to nothing? anything wrong with this approach?
     
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  2. If it ain't broke, don't muck with it. Try adjusting your current clutch properly. There will probably be an adjustment on the gearbox and on the lever.

    If it's still suspect, then change the pates. It may be however the spring plates need changing too So you could go to the hassle for nothing.

    though it's not too hard a job. . . . .
     
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  3. mate there is absolutely bugger all point in replacing the plates unless you do the friction discs aswell. you can bet that you'll need new springs too.

    at 40000kms my clutch was well on the way out, i sqeezed it out to 43500, and it was totally farked by then. so yeah yours is probably near the point of needing replacing.

    its an easy enough job to do, but you will need special tools. a clutch holder to remove the center nut (these can be brought from ballards) or a rattle gun will do the same thing. i was a lazy and cheap bastard when i did it, i held the counter shaft in place by sticking a wrench through the spokes of the rear wheel and the swing arm, not the reccomended procedure, but hey it got the job done, and the bike was still running well when i sold it 30000kms later.

    i actually had the clutch apart, with the new plates in, in under 45 minutes, replacing the gasket, or scraping the old gasket one off took 3 hours. buy a gasket scraper tool, and i hear there is some special gasket solvent you can buy too.

    other things to note: soak the friction discs (the fibrous discs on the outer clutch basket) in engine oil over night before you do the job. and also make sure you use sealent when you replace the gasket, and use it sparingly, nothing worse than gumming up an engine with too much friggen gasket cement (yes i managed to do that on my car)

    and if i were you, dont frig about with the spada manual, get the vtr manual, im pretty sure external wire routing is different. its only a 70 meg download off the web and there was a big thread about it here in 2006, do a search and you will find.

    cheers
     
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  4. More detail needed.

    How exactly does it feel - is it slipping under load, or in a high gear?

    All the best

    TG
     
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