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VTR250 and Castrol GTX3 Suitable?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Haggismaen, Apr 18, 2006.

  1. Just picked up some Castrol GTX3 oil for my first oil change on the VTR250. I know it isn't a motorcycle specific oil, but after reading the opinions expressed on these forums as well as various pages dotted round the web I thought it would still be suitable.

    I'm just double checking before I do the oil change that it is indeed suitable for the bike. Its a 15W-40 mineral oil with no friction modifiers (as determined by no claims of decreased engine wear or similar).

    My only real concern is that in the owner's manual it recommends API SE or SF grade oil, while the GTX3 is API SM/CF.

    Anyhow, let me know your thoughts and recommendations.

    I've still got the receipt and the bottle is unopened so I can get a refund if it is not suitable.

    Also while we are on the topic of oil, where is the best place to pick up an oil filter for the VTR250 round Sydney? Looked in K-Mart but only found one filter suitable for Honda bikes, but it was only for the V4s.
  2. I thought normal car engine oil isn't suitable for bikes with wet clutches? I'm not sure though.
  3. why are you "experimenting"? follow the bike manual specs, if it recommends 15w40 api se/sf grade oil use the same specs.

    is there a huge savings in using castrol gtx3 "automobile" engine oil instead of a motorex, motul or shell "motorcycle" engine oil?
  4. Go to a bike shop for the filter, a Honda place will almost certainly have one in stock; they'll usually have both the genuine filters as well as aftermarket ones. Do a bit of searching and you'll come across many reviews of the different brands. I just use the genuine ones as from what I've read, and logically, they're the safest to use and I'm not convinced that using any aftermarket filter is going to make any noticeable difference in power on a little 250. However what they might do is let more crap through. But it's up to you, they're probably all much of a muchness.

    While you're there you can check the prices of comparable oils if you wanted to make sure you had the same grade. I'm no engineer but as long as it specifies 15W-40 oil and it doesn't have any friction modifiers (what demuire is referring to I assume) I'd go ahead and use it. I, and it seems many others, vary the oils they use from time to time. I use a slightly thicker oil (20W-50) than the all round standard the user manual recommends. However the shop manual recognises that as long as you're using the bike in the right temperature range (10W-40 goes down to -10 degrees or something like that) you'll be fine.

    Give it a go and run it carefully, checking any leaks, excess oil consumption, and any other noises out of the ordinary and you should be fine.
  5. Castrol makes both a mineral based and full-synthetic motorcycle specific engine oil which would be far more suitable than GTX3 and isn't really that much more expensive (can usually get it at Supercheap Auto).
  6. The API (American Pteroleum Institute) standards SE and SF are now obselete, SM is their latest standard for petrol engines and CF is one of the new diesel standards the GTX3 meets both, which means it exceeds both SE and SF standards. What you make of that info is up to you, I'd go with JD's suggestion and get bike stuff, the engine will probly be fine unless you put olive oil in it, but best be on the safe side. Broken down bike or slippy/burny/wierd clutch is no fun.
  7. The newer oil standards do supercede the older standards. However, the newer standards are also specified for engines with roller cams and various other low friction components so teh latest and greatest may not in fact suit your engine.
    As said before get an oil which meets the standard your bike manufacturer specifies.
    Oh yeah, bike oils are basically the same as other engine oils. All oils get crushed up in an internal combustion engine, just don't use an oil with friction modifiers if you have a wet clutch. Most people claim that the motorcycle gearbox "mashes" the oil faster, but seeing as most modern auto and truck engines use a gear type oil pump, this seems like marketing hype swallowed by the masses to me. There's far more stress put on an oil in the cylinder bores/cam lobes as far as shear goes than in a set of gears, and all engines have that sort of problem.
    What is important is regular oil AND filter changes.

    Regards, Andrew.
  8. any wide viscosity range oil will not come with enough friction modifiers to give a wet clutch a problem. You realy only have those problems with the 0-20, 5-30 type oils and those that have "energy conserving" or similar claims and stamps on them.

    any of the 5-40, 10-40/50, 20-50, 25-60 etc are more than fine to use with wet clutches.