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VTR250 30amp fuse battery issue

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by dweezle, Nov 28, 2013.

  1. HI Guys,

    I have a 06 VTR250.

    I have not been able to ride my bike for the past few weeks due to work.

    I went out to ride last weekend and when i turned the key there was no power.

    I checked the fuses and found the 30amp was blown.
    I thought this was odd, but maybe just a one of issue so i changed over to the spare.
    It then all worked and started up fine and off i went for my short ride.

    I then went to start it again on Tuesday and found that it again had no Power.
    I checked the fuse and it appeared fine.
    I then tried a LED on the battery and had NOTHING!

    I am now trying to bring back my AGM battery from the dead away from the bike.

    Could anyone help me out?
    Could it be a Short somewhere that could have tripped the 30amp and then maybe just drained the battery over the week or so between rides?

    Just not sure where to even start?

    Any help much appreciated!!!
  2. Ok, so i charged the battery for a while and once it got to 12.3v i threw it back on the Bike and the Bike started.

    With a Mulitmeter on the battery while at idle it reads about 12.3v then with revs it stabilizes at 13.5v.

    I have now left the bike to sit for a few hours so i can see if the Voltage is dropping.
    There must be a reason the 30amp Fuse first blew and then once replaced the battery on its own just ran down to nothing.
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  4. Thankyou for your help mate.
    Much appreciated.

    I have now read up on that issue and i think you are right.
    I have had a look in my dark garage but can not seem to find the R/R.

    Could i sheepishly ask you to point me in the right direction to locate it?
  5.  Top
  6. I finally got a chance to buy a new battery as my old battery (which was only 12 month old) would no longer hold a charge.

    I do not have a charger with a low enough output so with the new battery i just put the fluid in and after an hour it registered 13.1V.

    I took it down to my bike today and once connected it dropped to 12.9V.

    I then checked the AMPs being drawn with nothing turned on.
    It was registering 02.2 at that setting on the Multimeter.
    Does this mean it id drawing 0.2 Amps with nothing turned on?

    With the Ignition turned on it was drawing this amount.

    After 3 hours connected the battery had dropped .2V.

    So i have now disconnected the battery as i do not want it to go below 12V.

    I am assuming that something is drawing current which is what killed my last battery.
    Could someone please confirm this?

    I am having a hard time trying to find the Reg/Rectifier to test the resistance across the DC connections.
    Could it be this that is drawing current?
    If i can disconnect it and the Current being drawn disappears would i be right in isolating that as the issue?

    Any Help much appreciated!!

    Thanks in advance as always!!
  7. Those current readings are in milliAmps (thousands of an Amp).
    2.2 mA is a very low drain, possibly a clock, immobiliser, alarm or similar is creating that minimal current flow with everything off.
  8. Thanks for the quick reply! :)

    My VTR250 does not have a clock/Immobiliser or anything that i am aware off connected?
    But if that is tiny then i am not really worried.

    I assume it is not normal for a battery to lose .2V in 3 hours?
    I am worried if i leave it over night it will be flat and i will have ruined another Battery.

    Should i connect it and go for a ride for 30 mins or so and see what happens when i get back?
  9. So did you do anything about the likely faulty regulator/rectifier?
    If you haven't you are quite likely going to run down your new battery.
  10. I have not :(

    I really needed the bike to get to work so i just threw a new battery in it.
    Got me there and back today.

    I have tried to find the Regulator/Rectifier without any luck.

    Do i need to remove the Fuel Tank to get to it?

    Here is a picture of the seat removed.
    Could anyone please point me in the right direction?

    I feel really stupid.

  11. Ignore what this instructable is about, but look at the photos of the typical regulator/rectifier and understand what it is you are looking for.
    Probably around 50mm x 75mm and 25mm thick, mounted where it will get some airflow.
    As far as I'm aware on a VTR250 it is mounted at the side of the bike above the rear shock and ear the coolant reservoir/overflow tank.
  12. #12 cjvfr, Dec 16, 2013
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2013
    Left hand side under the seat from this VTR workshop manual I found.


    In any case if you measure the voltage across the battery and rev the engine the voltage should come up to 14.5 volts. If it is under 14 then it is not charging and you can be sure it is the Reg/Rec, most likely or the alternator.

    If that is the Reg/Rec in the middle left of your picture then where have the connectors to it gone?
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  13. I've had this exact same issue myself over the past fortnight with the old VTR 250 (2005). Like you, I also bought a new battery, and blew the fuse within about a minute - even with the ignition off. For the third fuse, I watched the bike carefully and saw smoke curling out of the right hand side of the rear under-tank area. Pop goes the fuse and with probing fingers I could feel the plug into the R/R was hot.

    It's screwed to the inside wall of the right hand sideplate of the bike, underneath the rear of the tank. The plug goes into the bottom of it, but it has a lock-in catch that I couldn't release in situ. I had to unfasten the tank screws and lift the tank to the side. It doesn't go far, but far enough to get better access to the R/R's mounting screws from above. A fiddly job.

    I've got a new R/R on order. Not a great time of year for speedy shipping, but I'll let you know if it fixes the blowing fuses.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  14. Thank you so much guys!!
    Seriously appreciate it.

    I will try and have a look tonight after work.

    Those diagrams help a lot.

    My fuse is no longer blowing.
    I appear to have 14 odd volts in some rev spots and only 13 in others.

    My biggest issue is I lose about 1 Volt in 12 hours of the bike sitting there.

    When I turn the bike off with a multimeter across I can visually watch the voltage drop.
    Every 10 seconds approx I can see it drop .01 volts.
  15. Beware that diagram - it's misleading. Although it looks like its on the LHS under the seat, it's an X-ray diagram, so it's actually RHS under the tank. If you poke your hand in the RHS gap under the tank, and feel backwards and upwards on the inside of the outer sideplate, you'll get there.
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  16. New R/R arrived this week, installed this morning, fixed this issue. It was quite a relief when I put in a new fuse and it didn't pop!

    Of course, I've only got a vague idea of what the little gizmo actually does. I might take apart the old one to have a look at the gubbins, just coz.
    • Like Like x 1
  17. It rectifies (converts to DC) the AC (Alternating Current) output of the alternator, and regulates it to the correct voltage to charge the battery and run the electrical accessories (nominally 13.8 V).
    Well done on persisting with it and sorting it out yourself.
  18. Well update on the issue.

    I have had to drive my car to work as i need to carry audio gear.

    I decided to take the bike last Tuesday.
    So i took the battery of the Charger and threw it in the bike and rode to work.
    Got half way and "SPlat" No Power, Main Fuse blew.
    Pulled over and swapped to the spare fuse and again "Splat" it blew after about 3 mins.

    Dumped the bike, jumped in a taxi and got to work.

    Came back that evening with some 30amp Fuses and straight away i could still smell an electrical burnt smell.
    I disconnected the R/R, put in a new Fuse and rode her home without a hiccup.

    That is how "special" i am!!! :banghead:
    The bike basically has been letting me know this was the case for a few months now along with you guys.

    I am now on the lookout for a good R/R so if anyone has a lead on one i would be much appreciative !!!

    Thanks again for all your help.
    You basically spelt it out to me that it was the R/R.

  19. See my post up earlier. Regulatorrectifier.com are generally quality at a reasonable price. It will be cheaper than an OEM version.
  20. I got hold of a Used supposedly good R/R from a online Motorcycle Wrecker.

    I got a chance today to quickly test it out.
    I just plugged it in as i have not removed the old R/R it was just loose in the air.
    The bike started all fine and this video is a quick look at the voltage being output to the battery.

    Is this more like were it should be?

    The R/R got really hot within a minute or 2 of the engine running. Almost too hold to touch without burning me.
    Is this normal or if i mount it correctly, bolted to the frame, will that act as a heat sink in itself and cool it down?

    Could it be my Stator output it bad if it getting this hot is not a good thing?

    Just really looking forward to being able to ride it again!!! :)