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VTR250 2006 Clutch replacement

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by AnthonyVTR250, Apr 16, 2014.

  1. Hi everyone:)

    I'm new to the forum so let me start by apologising if I've put this in the wrong place or if this thread already exists (I did do a search).

    Basically I'm having some clutch issues with the VTR, releasing the clutch in first (when going from a standing start) causes the bike to lerch forward. Also changing gears; when releasing the clutch the bike rev's hard but does not increase in speed, the revs then slowly back off until the clutch stops.. slipping? (I imagine the clutch is slipping anyway) and will then build speed and revs like normal. I have little motorcycle experience but am more than happy to get my hands dirty. Spoke to a friend who has a lot of riding under his belt and he too believes its the clutch plates slipping. The bike is only 13000km's, does do a lot of heavy traffic/bumper to bumper stuff though so it is possible I or the previous owner have burnt the clutch out.

    Anyways, I am now reading up / watching videos etc on clutch replacement & thought there are probably a load of riders here who have replaced clutches, maybe even on a VTR250.

    What I’m really wanting to know is, what should I replace?

    I see people saying replace the clutch plates, springs, slipper plates etc.. is this necessary?



    Also where would be best to buy these parts? I have looked on the web and the parts I’m finding are in Japan and I’m not confident I’d be buying the correct stuff.

    Now before anyone asks I am happy to take it to a workshop (probably bikesplus in Essendon) but I want to use my VTR to learn as much as I can about bikes so why not give repairing it myself a bash.


    Thanks in advance for any help:)
     
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  2. First make sure the bike doesn't have car engine oil in it. Car oil has friction modifiers that cause bike wet clutches to slip.

    Also check clutch cable tension. You can adjust it at the clutch lever. Maybe it's too tight so the clutch never closes.

    Failing that I have a scanned PDF of a 2003 service manual for VTR250 if you want it I can upload to dropbox or something.

    I think (not sure) that if you replace clutches you'd need a bearing puller type tool too.
     
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  3. Sounds like clutch slipping.
    Easy method to be certain, is place bike on centre stand, and start it.
    Pull clutch in and click it into 1st gear, with the clutch pulled in, the rear wheel should not be turning, if it is, you should be able to stop it with a little friction (your foot) against it, and when you remove the friction the wheel should remain still (other than vibration), this is all done with the clutch lever pulled in.

    As mentioned, beware of friction modifiers if using car engine oil.

    You should not need a clutch holding tool, just replace all the friction plates (usually the inner one goes first - looks and smells burnt); remember to soak the friction (fibre) plates in engine oil (not car type) for 24 hours prior to installing.
    I would upgrade the clutch springs also, while you have it open.
    Remember, to get a new clutch cover gasket.
     
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  4. #4 AnthonyVTR250, Apr 16, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
    Thanks heaps!

    I changed the Oil in it recently, Used Bel Ray 10w - 40 i believe (will confirm tonight). From memory I believe the clutch problem was there before the oil change though.

    I have checked the cable at the clucth lever, it was over tight when I first checked it. Now has about a cm of slack play when let all the way out. Maybe the fact that it was over tight to begin with has caused the issue.

    Have heard this about the requirement of specific tool, have you swapped the clucth out before?


    Thanks for the offer of the manual, i'll let you know if i need it mate.

    Great idea Dobbo, sounds logical. I dont have a centre stand that will get the back wheel off the ground but I'm sure the local shop will be able to help there.

    Keep you all posted.
     
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  5. Adjust the cable motor end first before clutch lever, surprisingly it makes a difference.
     
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  6. Really? I haven't adjusted the engine end of the cable at all! So should I Loosen of the cable at the engine end and then tighten at lever end?
     
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  7. You are going to have to check the procedure in the manual ( Or online somewhere ) There is a procedure to follow with every bike. But it is nearly always motor side first. It does make a big difference.
     
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  8. I am in the middle of doing some work on my bike, so have the clutch out at the moment.
    To remove the clutch plates, no 'special tool' is required, if things start to move when you undo the 'spring' bolts, just gently wedge the basket and it will undo.
    Remember, the most inner friction plate usually has a wire retainer holding it in. (I do not intend to reinstall this wire, as l have been told it is not necessary and presents a risk of snapping at sometime and causing problems).

    The 'special tool' is a clutch basket holder, for removing the basket; but it is easy to make something to do the job. Even a large car oil filter wrench can be used.

    Your workshop manual, will have all the specs for checking the plates.
     
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  9. Thanks for all the tips guys. I have adjusted the clutch cable at the engine and then picked up the slack at the clutch lever, this did seem to improve things. I've also noticed thick gunk in the cable housing. I'll give it a clean and then see how it goes from there. If I do swap the clutch out I'll upload a step by step guide.

    Thanks
     
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  10. Try a new cable before replacing the clutch, they can break up a little inside the cable sheath, if they catch even a little bit it can cause slip.
    Anyway, cant hurt.
     
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