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[VIC] Anyone got a ball race remover I can borrow?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Loz, Aug 2, 2006.

  1. Ha ha, ball race.

    Moving right along.

    I've completely dismembered Cheng's Across, it's sitting in the garage looking like a skinned rhino. I'm replacing the steering head bearings. It's been a lot of fun thus far, very educational.

    However, I can't get the lower bearing race out of the headstem tube. The bearing is recessed into the tube in such a way that I can't get purchase by a screwdriver or anything onto it to bang it out from the other side.

    The manual mentions a special tool for this. Anyone got one I can borrow - or something that might work instead?

    Also, I can't get the inner bottom bearing race off the headstem, I think there's a tool for that too... Anyone have any suggestions there? This one's not so urgent, I can take that in to a workshop and get somebody to remove it. But I can't move the bike, it's jacked up with no front wheel.

  2. Loz, to get the inner race off the headstem, just grab a 4 inch grinder & grind down one side of the race till it gets real thin. Give it a good crack with a hammer & cold chisel, & it should split & fall off.
    Are you sure there is no where you can get a purhase on the lower outer race? Is there a small gap between the race & the shoulder it seats against? You may be able to bend a screwdriver enough to catch on that.
    If you have a welder handy you can run a bead of weld around the inside of the race & let it cool. The race will then just fall out.
  3. Thanks Andrew

    I don't have a grinder or a welder, but my dad does, so the poor bugger might come over later tonight and we'll try the weld thing.

    How does it work? Shrinking upon cooling? I thought of that and I've got a bag of frozen peas stuffed up inside the race at the moment in the hope that they might help :LOL:
  4. Got it in one dude :)
    Unfortunately, the frozen peas will not pull the temperature down enough -or fast enough. The race will just transfer the cooling to the housing. You need a bigger temp differential for that to work.
    I am surprised there is no where to get a drift on to drive the race out though. The bearing puller has to get a purchase somewhere on the race to be able to work :?
  5. Yes, I knew the "McCain Technique" was a long shot.

    There's a lip, but it's recessed in from the inner diameter of the tube. A screwdriver, as it tapers in, can't get any purchase on that lip.

    I've got a pinch bar that can get enough purchase for a hammer tap or two, but I can't budge it using that, and I've already bent the tip of one pinch bar trying(!)

    Tough job this bit!
  6. A word of warning -before welding on the outer bearing race, grab some masking tape & apply at least 4 or 5 layers of tape on the exposed machined area of the steering head housing under the race. It would really rip your undies if you inadvertantly arced on the housing instead of the bearing race. Try getting it out then :wink:
    Also, disconnect your battery before doing any welding. Stray current can do nasty things to your electronic ignition. And keep the earth lead as close as possible to where you are welding.
    Don't say I didn't warn you. Oh -& have fun :LOL: :LOL:
  7. Righto, cheers.
  8. Update: With the help of my very clever dad, I've got the old bearing races out, and the inner race off the headstem. Didn't need to use the welder, he had a better chisel and that eventually did the trick.

    The headstem's now super greasy and back on the bike with the new bearings on, torqued to "well sorta" and I'm in the process of reassembling the bike.

    I did forget the dust cover from the bottom of the bottom head bearing, but I figure it's better to have that bearing die a bit early than to kill it immediately by trying to bash it off the headstem again, which completely buggered the old one.

    Now, to see how many bolts are left over when the bike goes back together... :grin: