Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Using a Kincrome torque wrench

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by blue, Apr 10, 2007.

  1. A salesman at one the tool stores said that the cheap torque wrenches are only accurate at the middle of their range and could be wayy off everywhere else. Dont normally listen to salesreps but this was a tool store and I have always trusted people working at toolstores for some reason.

    Well I found a kincrome 1/2 torque wrench with a range of 30-190nm for about 120$ at autobarn.

    Since its a lot cheaper than the warren-brown and sidchrome wrenches which are plain unaffordable for me at the moment, just need to know if any of you have used these and are they accurate through the whole range.
  2. Kinchrome are a reliable brand. I would trust the wrench.
    Things to consider for motorcycle use, is it 3/8 or 1/2" drive?
    Also, I'd be inclined to buy a smaller one rather than a larger one, purely for ease of use in the confines of a bike.
    Besides, you'll rarely need anything over 50-60 ft/lbs on a bike.

    Regards, Andrew.
  3. None of them are 100% acurate completely across the range due to the way they operate, i've got a couple of norbar ones with overlaping ranges.
  4. Check the owners manual and see what torque required

    KLR front sprocket 70ft/lbs and 27mm socket - bought the big Super Cheap one and sprocket hasn't fallen off.

    Was also a b!tch to get off, would have been hard with a smaller onen due to leverage required.
  5. I need the 1/2 inch one to cover the torque for my rear wheel...146nm(single sided arm). None of the 3/8 inch cover 146nm. Thought I'll get away with one that covers 13-150nm and just hand tighten the stuff below 10nm(which are very few)

    But am also considering getting two, a 1/2inch now since I need to work on the rear bearings soon and a 3/8inch a couple of months later with a bit more saved up for the valve service. Mortgages....they sure do mess up your priorities :LOL:
  6. I don't worry about torque wrenches on the big nuts like that, only the critical stuff that clamps things together or is small threads in aluminium. You very rarely need to tighten them and when you do, bloody tight usually suffices! hard to strip a huge nut.

    Actually, the GTR doesn't have any really big fasteners.....I hadn't realised till now.

    Regards, Andrew.
  7. When I was field based my two Norbar wenches had to be calibrated annually to ensure they were in spec as it only takes it being dropped to knock it out of calibration. If it was found to be out we would then have to look at how bad and possibly go back and retorque the bolts it was used on (reason for keeping audit paperwork).

    Yes I did spell it wrong on purpose.
    • Winner Winner x 1
  8. you are right its huge. Its a 46mm nut, couldnt believe how big the socket is when I bought it.
  9. One point to remember is that older bolts and studs may well let go below their initial factory torque ratings. I'd hate to think how many times I relied on a torque wrench and heard/felt that it'd started stripping before I got near to claimed torque specs.

    The other thing is of course that most torque wrenches are a HUUUUGE amount of leverage on about a half meter long bar and you need to be very slow and careful using them because on the smaller bolts it is easy to not even feel that you've got.

    I also agree 3/8th is a way better size toolkit to use on an alloy japanese bike for this exact same reason.

    So in general, I'll use them on big bolts, things like head bolts and thats about it. Everything else gets the "bl00dy tight" or "two grunts" method.

    I probably believe they're only completely accurate near the middle of their range - mechanical speedos and tachos are so I doubt any other mechanical device is that much better.
  10. Could you explain the bloody tight or 2 grunts method.

    In the past while working on cars I have just followed the 'tighten it till it strips and then back it off a 1/4 turn' method.

    well I dont let it strip but you get the idea, just till I feel its enough then a back a little
  11. I guess I could add a bit to this as I import them.
    Most torque wrenches will be calibrated so that the center of the range is most accurate. However, the extremes of the range should still be within the stated accuracy for the tool (+-4% in the case of Drapers precision range).
    This means the tool could read 4% low or 4% high a difference of 8%.
    The sales guy is embellishing this to tell you that the cheap wrenches will be out of spec at the ends of their range.
    And if they are, you'd be within your rights to ask for a refund or repair under warranty.
    There is a bit of a grey area here though as a torque wrench will loose it's calibration after a time. Parts wear, springs stretch and the quality of the parts will determine how quickly this happens. Hench the need for regular calibration if the tool is used in torque critical environments (eg. Aircraft)
    As for which size you need on a bike.
    The 1/4 versions generally go from 2-6Nm they are fairly expensive do to the tight tolerances and limited sales. They don't cover much useful range on the bike.
    3/8" 10-80Nm These are pretty good for the bike. You can torque up the critical areas like conrods, cam holders, front sprocket bolts etc. Pretty much everything except swing arm and rear axle nuts.
    For those you need the 1/2" These typically cover the 30-210Nm range. They start too high for the delicate bolts inside the engine but are good for Axles, and maybe engine mount bolts. Also useful if you want to use it on the car too.
    3/4" and 1" are next. Do you own a tractor? lol
    The other thing to note is the handle length gets longer as you move from 1/4" to 1/2". So getting the 1/2 in to tighten some bolts may prove a challenge as may trying to tighten a bolt to 80Nm with the 3/8"s. The wrench will measure it but are you strong enough tighten it that far with the smaller amount of leverage.
  12. Precisely why I went out and bought a small 3/8" drive socket set when I bought my first bike, my 1/2" Sidchrome gear was just ridiculous on 8mm crankcase bolts!
    The leverage with teh much smaller ratchet handle, and just the much smaller size makes it much easier to use on the bike, and the weight and finer ratchet action makes it a joy to use on these small bolts and nuts.
    To tell teh truth, I only ever use a torque wrench on cylinder heads, or anything I know may strip, last time I used my torque wrence was around 18 months ago on a Jag XK cylinder head.
    I'd just like to add, that a torque wrench should be treated like a precision instrument, keep it in a case, in foam, and wind off any torque setting after use if it's a click type wrench. My torque wrench lives in the bottom of my bookcase, safe out of harm's way.
    Also learn how to use teh wrench properly, a smooth steady pull should be used, and when torquing multiple bolts holding down a item, use a stepped pattern, going say 1/3, 2/3, full torque in steps, around all fasteners each step, then up next step.

    Regards, Andrew.

  13. By that time you've already done the damage.

    You get a feel for things, but that takes time. Any 12-14mm bolt can take enough torque that it will take a significant amount of effort to be tight using a normal length spanner.

    Thats where the two grunts comes in.

    Obviously using a half meter long torque wrench on an 8mm bolt you get a very different result - you'll strip threads or twist the head clean off a bolt before you need to put any major effort in.

    If you watch a decent mechanic at work, he wont just swing on the end of a spanner, he'll hold the same spanner in different spots and change the amount of leverage depending on the type of work he's doing - balancing how much "feel" versus "force" he's using while he's turning it.
  14. I am doing my homework at the moment over a torque wrench for a yamaha R1 I have just picked up. Nice to find this thread. Thanks.
  15. *Meh* Hammering a ring spanner till it won't go is always an option.
  16. Defletor beam is the way to go for torque wrenches!
    Warren and Brown are the shit. Even a mate who is the biggest Kinchrome seller in my state doesn't use theirs or recommend them
  17. Uh oh. It sounds as if you've used your torque wrench to UNdo the nut? That's a big no-no with these, as you'll stuff up the calibration. I have a cheapo one I bought before I knew better that I've sacrificed for this reason.