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unsealed roads

Discussion in 'General Motorcycling Discussion' at netrider.net.au started by richo307, Jun 18, 2012.

  1. I live in a rural environment and have about 4km of unsealed road/tracks to get me to the sealed road to begin a commute/ride.

    So my question is how damaging is this to the tyres over time or is it just that my tyres will wear faster. Or is there an intermediate type tyres to consider like car tyres?
  2. 4km isn't enough to wear the tyres significantly. Damage only if you hit rocks etc. More concerns about dropping it on the slippery bits IMO. You can certainly get dual purpose tyres but it'll depend on the wheel size whether it's worth it. What kind of bike?
    You'll need to regularly clean the grit off chain, brakes etc.
  3. worse is rock to the radiator and the grit and mud on the chain.

    mud coating on tyres is SLIPPERY on tarmac
    the tyres won't wear at all

    have you heard of DIRT tyres? they come in all different ratios road/offroad
    you could get 90/10 or 80/20 road/offroad

    just take it easy you'll be okay
    I gather you mean a road bike, because dirt bikes are made for DIRT

    If you are going hard, find the limit of when you are starting to slide
    under braking and on the power and you can balance it out.
    sliding around is pretty normal offroad unless you go really slow,
    so you can adapt your braking and power application to sliding,
    which is fun and good training for sliding on the road
  4. Ok cool thanks for the info. I was just concerned that I will significantly wear out my road tyres faster on the gravel etc.
    I was quite worried at first riding on this surface and kept it fairly slow but the bike just does its thing and I can go a bit harder now.
  5. Good work, let the bike have it's head...move around a bit..it will.
    What do you ride ???? Is it suitable for dual purpose tyres?
    Michilin PP's will puncture, be careful of shale.
  6. GPX250, dunno if suitable for dual purpose though. Its 8 k's of unsealed road every time I take the bike out as I have to get out and back in remember.
  7. ^^^ funny.......good analogy
  8. Do you ride horses ?? ha ha that's where I got it from. Works cause all you worry about is you, and you being in balance.
    Yeah the GPX wont do duals. But no need to go the Xpensive super stickies on one either.
    Just make sure your tyres are up to pressure, specially if carrying a load. You can pinch a tyre on a rock or bit of shale sticking out.
  9. Yeah have rode the old nag a few times in my younger years (not the human kind either), I am forever dodging the odd rock and sharpie bits all the time, oh and the pot holes that dirt roads like to grow.
  10. gravel is always dependably a little slippy, and a road bike like that will let go faster than a dirt bike because the suspension is so stiff. (ie front wheel)
    Maybe soften the suspension a touch.

    You will want to be tentative with any sliding.
    braking offroad is the opposite to onroad=
    (stronger on the back wheel rather than the front wheel)
    you can let the rear slide a little (ie BMX skid)
    but watch the front, be firm, but very careful.
    don't use the front brake like on the road or it will just dump you off.

    Even though you can't use dual purpose tyres, you may find some with a nice tread pattern for dirt. Tyres last really well offroad, unless there are heaps of sharp rocks, because if you put in too much force they will just break loose. On the road the tyres will grip and wear faster, they also transmit the force back into the clutch gearbox etc.
  11. Some good info there, thank you.

    I find the rear seems more stable than the front on the gravel which I put down to maybe more weight on the back due to my stature.

    I think I will just leave the tyres and suspension as is and take it easy, but I must admit I am much more confident on the dirt than I was a few weeks ago.

    Although I'm still on the lookout for the Rangakoo's that like to jump out in front and I am not yet experienced enough to emergency stop on dirt/gravel.

    Someone might have some pointers on this - maybe just lock the rear wheel and hang on? :)
  12. if you're riding on gravel try to ride on the wheel tracks and avoid the big mounds of it. can wash out your wheel if you hit it wrong
  13. ^^^^ use the scrubbed parts of the road.
    Wildlife is tricky. If you can go over it...do it.
    If you cant then go through it is my best advice. A roo coming from the side is ugly. They dart and weave, but always seem to jump out at the last minute. Hit them strait on and with more force than they are going to hit you with. Fark skippy take him out !!!
    Wombats are not good to jump either. Tough little buggers
  14. Its a great way to learn how to handle your bike if you ride on gravel a lot.

    Practice "skidding" the rear wheel (locking it up), and see how the bike reacts.
    I often like to lock up the front when riding on grass or dirt roads and push it along- this is a really good way to learn how the bike will react when you do have to e-stop on the tarmac aswell as the dirt road.
    I'm also a sucker for doing rolling burnout type skids on the dirt, its great fun and if you start doing little ones you'll soon find your self spinning up the rear for ages- and you can even hold the front brake on after a bit of practice to stop yourself picking up speed.
    putting all your body weight on the pegs will help the bikes stability by lowering its COG.

    All of these things will give you a much better understanding on how your motorcycle will react in an emergency situation- you will be gratefull one day that you know these skills if you make them instinctual.
  15. there is no antidote for those goddamn roos, only riding slower will help!
    they will jump out and there is no time to do anything.
    (unless you have a gun and can kill them all beforehand)

    Offroad braking is a combination of locking the rear wheel and getting as much out of the front as possible without locking it up.

    (the sliding rear is a rudder of sorts= used for stability)

    On a dirt bike this isn't too hard, but your bike will drop you VERY quickly so you must have practise with these stops.

    The front will offer a lot of braking force, but it will let go quickly when it locks.

    Same for cornering, don't lean over the front wheel.
    move the bike underneath you as you stay upright (opposite to road)
    if you must lock a wheel, lock the rear.
    Never slide the front wheel in a corner, though with experience you may be able to powerslide the rear end. (steer with the rear as they say)