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Uneven tyre wear

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Bravus, May 6, 2009.

  1. I did do a bit of a search but didn't find an answer.

    I'm just about due for a new rear tyre on the Bandit. It's a Bridgestone. I noticed this morning that it's near-bald on the right hand side, about 1/2 way from the centre-line to the edge, and that this is not the case on the left side. (I mean, there's a narrow area a cm or so wide where the tread grooves are almost gone, at that position, not that it's bald from the centre to that position!)

    Any idea whether it's something be be worried about? or maybe there are just more right-hand corners on my daily commute, or I get on the power harder earlier on right-handers than left (I'm not aware of an particular handedness in my riding style). I assume if the wheel was not straight (i.e. dodgy chain tension adjustment or whatever) that I'd feel it more, and I'm also not sure that would lead to the observed effect in an area where it would only be wearing when I'm leaned over a reasonable distance.


     
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  2. Not surprising that its on the right with the road camber on a 'drive on the left road' being higher on the RHS. The other factor is that right-hand turns tend to be longer because you're always on the 'outside line' of the road for righties and 'inside line' for lefties.
     
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  3. Ah, simple, clear and brilliant! Thanx.
     
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  4. Mm, how significant is the difference in wear from left to right?

    As a worst case example... A coworker's bike (bought 2nd hand - it's had this problem since he got it) wears the right side of the front tyre massively (the centre is barely worn at all!), and the back tyre is wearing stupidly fast too; totally shagged after 5000k of commuting-only.

    I had the same tyres and got 11,000k out of mine, with perfectly symmetrical wear. In fact I've always had virtually symmetrical wear on my bike tyres...

    There's something definitely wrong with my coworker's bike (an FJR1300, FWIW), but the dealership mechanic claims that "it's just the camber of the road". B***S***.


    But a small degree of asymmetrical wear might be normal...?
     
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  5. my bike too has perfectly symmetrical wear over the 2 sets rear and original front I've had on it to date, but i generally attribute that to using most of the tyre most of the time. (though i'm starting to get some scalloping in the front, but that isn't unexpected for the particular tread pattern.)

    indeed, if a swingarm is a bit off-line, fork uneven or frame slightly twisted, it would explain a lot.
     
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  6. I don't think it's hugely dramatic. I'll try to post a photo.
     
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  7. Also look at your tyre pressures.
    BMW ringwood tend to inflate my rear tyre to 38-40 as it helps with even wear and a big heavy bike like the bmw or a bandit will take a 38-40 psi tyre easily.
    Anything softer and the tyre can scallop or wear unevenly, particulalrly with the road camber.
    Works for me my last rear tyre lasted nearly 15,000 kms for a sport tourer MEZ z6
     
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  8. I'd been running it at 32 for a while, then discovered I should have been doing 36 at least, so the damage may have been due to that. Will keep the pressure up on the replacements.
     
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  9. stop doing dounuts one way and do some the other :LOL:
     
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  10. As I'm just new to bikes I'm not 100% sure with bike tyres but low pressures on cars and trucks will cause excessive wear on outer edges as the centre of the tyre is pushed upwards away from the contact patch. Combine this with a road that cambers down to the left and a bike is effectively leaning right to go in a straight line. This would put the main contact point to the right of centre. A 10% difference in tyre pressures can make an extreme difference to the wear pattern of a tyre.

    Al.
     
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  11. What side does your junk hang?
     
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  12. I may be way off here, but with the front tyre that is wearing, I'd be checking the fork operation and that the oil is the same both sides (volume and viscosity), and for both front and rear, get someone to ride/drive behind you and make sure the bike tracks true and the wheels are in line with each other. The bike shouldn't crab, and the wheels should be inline and not leaning apart or together at the top.
     
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