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Uh-oh, I need help. Noob problems

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Jym, Apr 7, 2011.

  1. #1 Jym, Apr 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    Hey guys, sorry to bother you. You've probably heard this a million times before, but when I did a search I couldn't find what I needed to find.

    Before I go any further, I did a series of searches, and read through lots of posts, but could not find something similar to my problems. Now, that could be due to my lack of experience riding, or due to my complete lack of mechanical knowledge.

    If you have already covered this issue, feel free to redirect me, and I will investigate further.

    So, here goes.
    I ride a CBR250R MC19. I've had it for about 9 months, and its always had problems starting. Especially cold starting. But with perseverance it has always started. Usually takes 5 minutes of cranking on and off, and then it kicks over and away we go.

    Unfortunately it now doesn't want to do that.
    I've found a youtube video of what is NOT MY BIKE, but seems to have the same problem. [URL="
    ]Here is the link[/URL]

    For the past few days I've been roll starting it, but the issue is it takes me many many many tries to get it to start, often taking me about a half an hour. This isnt a real big concern to me, aside from it absolutely tiring me out, and being covered in sweat by the end of it, but it is my only form of transport, and I start work at 6.30am, so running up and down my street in the absolute darkness of 5.30am trying to roll start my bike is incredibly frustrating, and needless to say, having my colleagues watch me do it as I leave work is an incredible embarrassment, as they don't ride, and are now totally put off riding because of my issues.

    Any help there would be greatly appreciated.

    Also - I've noticed that when it does fire up now, it seems to have a bit of a...I dunno, squeaky? noise. Hard to explain, I did try to take a video, but my camera is terrible and nothing can be heard, so if anyone has any idea what that could be, I would really appreciate it.
    (The squeak gets faster when I accellarate)

    Note: Westside Motorcycles in Sunshine has informed me that I will soon need to replace my chain and sprockets. Could this be the issue?
    Also note: My battery is currently on a charger, just in case thats the issue. But I doubt it is, judging by how difficult it is to roll start.

    Thanks in advance,
    Sorry to be a nuisance.

    (I feel really bad bothering you guys when I've only just joined the forums)
  2. CBR250s are the worlds most neglected motorcycles. They are sensative to carb balance and cleanleness.

    Get the carbies cleaned and balanced. Get a new set of plug whilst you're at it.
  3. That's why we are here mate, to help people, they love a challenge on these boards so I'm sure u will get a few answers soon
  4. ^What ibast said.
    New plugs, new air filter, carb balance, carb tune, etc. - basically all the things the last dozen or more owners never bothered with.

    Probably also in need of new fork seals, springs, brakelines, pads, bearings, etc. as well.
  5. Thanks for your speedy replies!!

    ibast, you are 100% correct, the fella I bought it off treated this baby with total disrespect!

    I might have done the wrong thing, but about 2 months ago I bought some of that Carby Cleaner from Supercheap and ran that through it. Is that enough to clean it out? I followed the directions, but I imagine something like that is not going to do a good job, compared to cleaning it manually.

    JD - If I was to take my bike to a mechanic, any idea what kind of ballpark figure I'd be looking at to get the plugs, air filter, carb balance and tune etc. Done? I'm pretty much flat broke until after Easter, since its my missus's 21st on Good Friday and obviously all my moolah has gone into getting her the best gift money can buy.

    On the plus side, when I got it roadworthied, I got new Fork Seals, springs checked and were fine, brake lines replaced, pads and discs replaced, and bearing checked and ok. The only thing I had left to do was chain and sprockets.

    Edit: Oh Also - Theres obviously a bit of an oil leak, as if I've run it for over 20-30 minutes, and stop at lights, or at my destination, a little bit of smoke billows out from under the petrol tank.
    Edit: I've also been informed by Westside that I have a Manifold Leak

    Jeez, reading all these issues, I seem to need a new bike. If only I had the money. And I wouldn't want to pass these problems onto someone else!

    Thanks again guys!
  6. thats what you get for buying a cbr250rr! totally overpriced, every person who has owned it rides it like they think theyre rossi, stacked, repaired in as many times and had the nuts revved out of it.

    I reckon you should fix it, sell it and get something else
  7. Hard to start would indicate your valves probably need checking too, you're going to have to throw a bit of money at it by the sounds of it.

    The valves I would get someone professional to do, it's not worth the time & hassle to do your self generally, get them to check the cam chain & tensioners too, it's in the same part of the engine. The "squeek" your hearing could be the chain & sprockets being rooted or your cam chain being rooted. Or both.

  8. Start with getting it tuned properly first,
    You will find most of your problems with it will dissapear,
    No idea what a tune costs,
    plenty of posts on here about tuning costs and where not to go for it,
  9. This will be a large part of your problem. You need a new intake boot (ebay). Then get the carbies cleaned and balanced.

    A bottle of carbie cleaner may help an engine run a bit better but won't fix a problem like yours.

    $4-600 at a guess.

    You are learning why people like single cylinder bikes.
  10. Plugs and air filter you should be able to do yourself easy enough if you can get a hold of the service manual (should be easy enough to find an electronic copy on the 'net). Should only be about $20 for plugs, maybe $30-40 for the filter.

    Cost of a carb tune/balance will depend on how rooted it is - and whether the valves need to be done first or not (if you don't know when they were done last, then they need doing).

    Ideally it is best to learn to do as much of the work yourself as possible. Old 4-cylinder 250s are not the sort of thing you want to be taking to a mechanic on a regular basis.
  11. If your bike (when running), isnt having any idle or throttle issues, your carbs wont be the culprit.
    More times than not, it will be the valve clearances need checking, and could also have a crap load of carbon buildup. This should be your starting point before worrying about anything else.
  12. Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it.
    This bike will remain in my garage until a time that I can afford to fix it up, or have the time.

    I just spoke to Honda Finance, and they've approved me for the new 250R! Get to go pick it up next week!
    I'm looking forward to seeing you on a group ride in the next few weeks!
  13. Reads to me it's never been right so he can't make that judgment.

    re: valve clearances, I've yet to see a bike (short of burning out a valve or putting a hole in a piston) where valve clearances cause a performance problem. I can't think of any logical reason why it would.
  14. Valve clearances only make the motor rattle,
    And they have to be out a long way for that to happen.
    The bike will still run okay,
  15. Good luck with the new bike..
    If you want to fix the old one, first job is fix the leaky inlet manifold. The leak Wont be helping it start, Cheapest and not the best fix is to cover the crack in the manifold with electrical tape or fill the crack with silastic (dont overdo the silastic) only until you can afford a new/better/good one.

    Valve clearances

    Incorrect Valve clearances can affect performance. If you picture the cam lobe travelling around on its merry way and hitting the top of the valve actuator, the amount of space between the cam lobe and the actuator will determine where on the ramp it hits the valve, this affects valve opening and closing times, which affects how long the valve is open for and the amount of valve lift. All those things that make performance cams worth buying.
  16. Mate I know just what you mean! Brings back memories of running up and down the street trying to bump start my CBR250RR on a freezing cold morning. I'm totally drenched in sweat and panting while people driving by give me weird looks. Then I get to work and I'm already stuffed.

    Then it happened once in the city during peak hour. Couldn't use the road, too busy, so ended up using a TAFE quadrangle to try the bump start. I must have looked like a d1ckhead because all these students were literally crying with laughter.

    After that I said THAT'S IT and sold it for something much more reliable.

    These CBR's just get passed around from learner to learner and never seem to get a proper service or treated well. I got to know mine intimately as I seemed to spend the same amount of time fixing it than I did riding it (a bit of an exaggeration but you know what I mean). If I had my time again.............but I digress.

    Have a look at the battery terminals. Mine were totally caked up with some kind of white grey oxidised stuff. Get a good brush and clean them off - made a big difference and the bike started more often (note I didn't say all the time!)

    Oh yeah. I'm not mechanically minded at all but did all the basic servicing (oil, filter, plugs, coolant, brake fluid/pads) myself, just by looking on the internet. Just took me triple the time of someone who knows what they're doing.

    Good luck.
  17. Not enough with standard wear and tear. valve lift is in the 10-14mm range. valve clearances are around 0.010". Typically they are rattling like crazy if they are 0.004" out. If your clearances are out enough to effect performance then you have some sort of failure occurring that a simple valve adjustment won't fix. something like a lobe failure or follower failure.
  18. No idea what valve train the CBR's use but shim and bucket designs I've worked with have usually closed up with normal wear and tear, clearance gets less and less until the valve doesnt transfer enough heat to the valve seat and burns out. It doesnt rattle excessively because the clearances are less not more. With screw and locknut adjusters, I've had them go either way, loosen and tighten.
    And with an early 80's Z750 kawasaki the valve's just wore out and receded into the head. Bike still ran but was low on compression on a couple of cylinders.
  19. Back to an unanswere question, chains and sprockets will effect the way the bike rides and if bad enough can be positively dangerous, but have nothing at all to do with starting the engine. They are a separate issue and not the problem.

    Ansd an observation. If your starter is turning the motor over ok, then there is no advantage in trying to push start the bike. If you have a flat battery and the moor won't turn over then you need to push start but if something else is causing the motor not to start then pushing won't solve this.

    5 mins of cranking is not normal. There is an underlying problem. If not fixed this will also eventually affect your battery which will become an additional issue in its own right. Assuming all else is good, state of tune will affect starting. if the bike hasn't been tuned for a while then get this looked at.
  20. +100 to the two posts above. If valve clearances are too tight you will get the symptoms you describe because there's not enough compression due to gas leaking past the tight valve(s). You should be able to get the compression tested quite cheaply, this will point you in the right direction. Borrow a tester somewhere and do it yourself, 10 min job.