Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

tyre valve air escaping at the rim

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by TAX123, Jun 25, 2012.

  1. Before people tell me to search I have and tried to reply and the thread said its more than 140 days old and i cant do so.

    when i fill up air at the servo I have to bend the rubber valve on the rim to get the pump on. When I do this air leaks out the valve at the rim. When I take it off and the valve sits upright no leaking sound, but over time about 1 months the pressure drops from 42 to about 27psi, is this normal , is the valve base bending broken something to let air out, are not these things built to bend? its hard as hell to get the air pump end to fit without bending getting past the large brake or chain on the side.
  2. This is going to end badly, with you stranded by the side of the road, or worse.
    First off, get the tyre valve stem property reseated, and stop bending it!
    Solutions: have a right angle valve stem fitted, or buy a (good quality) foot pump or mini compressor with a short, flexible hose attachment and set your pressures with it at home.
    (I have one of those portable jump starter units with a battery and a compressor.)
    • Like Like x 1
  3. do you think its the valve stem or could it be the core?
  4. I'd guess a poorly fitted or dislodged stem (had the same thing happen to mine), but it doesn't really matter because if the stem is moving around it needs to be reseated and/or replaced. You don't want it deflating far from home, or mid-corner.

    You might also be able to get hold of the stem type that have a thread and retaining nut to prevent them being pushed out of position. Either way the tyre has to come off.
  5. if that thing rips of on the freeway you're so ****ed.
  6. Yes you can if you bother to read how to do so.
  7. Yea, just saw the little box tick thing


    I didn’t think dragging up an old thread that was more about punctures and other stuff was needed and what im posting seems to be exactly what I need answered, hope you could give some technical info relating to my problem.


    was looking at the valve and the rubber is split at the rim, when it bends it leaks, looks like I will have to replace this,

    can this be done at home or do I need to go to tyre shop or mechanic, do they have valves that pop in from the outside or the tyre has to come off?

    are these valves universal? do car tyre valves fit into my bike, btw its tubeless
  8. Yea will get some right angle valve stems fitted, will make it easier to fill air and will stop the leak
    so fixes two problems in one, thanks mate
  9. Take it to a tyre shop. For the amount of farting around you'd have to do it's worth paying someone who has the proper tool to do it properly.
  10. yea, rang up and cheaper if i remove wheel and take it in, dont think i would trust riding it in with that split may shoot off on the hwy as someone wrote

    next thread how to remove rear wheel, only joking found some how to's on youtube
  11. well it's basically one bolt and a chain...
  12. 3 bolts not including sprocket, and brake caliper and chain, but should be ok
  13. what a bastard, all it is is one bolt, take the axle out, get the chain out of the way and the wheel just slides out on the DR.
    how come you have to take the caliper off? no need on my bike but it does make it a little easier.
    well good luck with it
  14. In summary do not bend
    • Like Like x 1
  15. If you've got a fattish tyre and a narrowish swing arm I can see thew caliper having to come off to give enough clearance for the tyre to come through. Come to that, I find the caliper has to come off on the DR but Suzuki have kindly engineered it so that the carrier just slides out after you've taken out the spindle and spacers. If it had a bolt up torque arm instead it would be quite a bit more awkward.
  16. took wheel in rather than riding in, cheaper plus safer

    I took the wheel to the shop, if you do it at home like shown on youtube by breaking the bead etc at the end it still needs to be balanced so take it to a shop as PatB said

    thanks titus
    I got a 90 deg metal valve stem fitted easier to fill up now

    well mine is a little harder to get off, but a bastard to get back on by yourself, made a wheel lifter out of planks of wood and had to align the wheel, spacers kept falling off, brake caliper, swing arm to get the rod through, was like playing twister but on now. also remebered to mark the alignment marks with texta so wheel alignment is back to normal as well as correct chain tension.

    Well can't bend now as as its a screw on metal cased right angle valve stem
    dont know why these don't come as standard

    thaks guys for those helpful quotes!