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tyre questions re accross

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by ronin11, Jan 8, 2006.

  1. so im riding round down here in tassie... and noticed the bike is a bit playful at the rear.. definatly at lower speeds (which is all you can do down here anyways, stupid 80KPH law :slap: ) wondering what kind of pressure i should be running with just me on the bike (115kg) and also with a bag full of clothing on the rack should i increase the pressure or would it be safe to leave it as is?

    oh, and another one.. ive recently noticed that when im pulling up to a set of lights, when i bump it into nuetral, maybe the last few metres before a light i notice a clunk sound coming from the front of the bike... maybe there when riding but i cant here it due to engine.. there is no bumpy feeling through clutch or brake or anything like that.. its just a noise that sounds like its timed with the rotation of the front wheel, but there is nothign stuck int he front wheel or anything of the like...

  2. What pressures are you running on the bike at the moment?

    When you say the rear is playful, what are you referring to? Is it losing traction, or does it feel squirmy or wallowy?

    The stock Suzuki recommendation for solo riding is 30psi front, and 30psi rear from memory (solo riding).

    Usually I run my wife's Across's tyres a little firmer - 32 front and 34 rear, and it's pretty nice. I'm 80kgs and she's around (oops I'd better not let that sort of info slip! :eek: ) :LOL:

    So, you're a little heavier, and you're carrying some gear too - I'd go firmer again.

    The other thing I'd ask, is have you set up your rear suspension for your weight?

    The Across doesn't have the worlds greatest suspension - it can tend to feel a little wallowy in the rear I find, but setting up the preload properly helps alot.

    As for the noise in the front end, is it a repeating clunk, or just a single clunk as you apply the front brakes?

    Also, is it only in neutral, or does it happen in gear as well?
  3. I used to run higher pressures on the Across, 36/38 and sometimes 38/40 front and rear. It felt better for me. Pressures down near 30/30 are better left for track days and high speed cornering.
    The wallowy feeling sounds like its down on pressure in the rear. Unless the roads are real slippery even a worn tyre will be ok at those speeds on a dry road.

    How old are your tyres? If they are a couple of years old, they could be on the way out regardless of the amount of tread left.

    If you haven't done so already, get a spacer placed in the front shocks (about the size of a 20c piece). You can actually use 20c pieces, 1, 2 or 3 in each shock improves the front end out of site as it is way to soft in stock form.
    Popping it into neutral and coasting to a stop is probably not the best or safest technique habbit to get into at traffic lights. 999/1000 times, no drama but there will be that time when you need to be in gear to keep moving. imo, you are better off stopping at the lights then making a decision based on the traffic behind you whether to rest the bike in neutral.
  4. ashes.. im local to you actually.. its not every set of lights i do it up to.. if im at the front of the que, i move to the inside of the lane and if the light has just turned red ill coast up in neutral.. if im pulling up in a row of traffic i tend to keep it in gear until a car has definatly come to complete stop behind me, then ill drop it into neutral..

    the only time i notice it is when im not in gear, but its not very load so it might be because of the engine that i cant hear it..

    oh yes the suspension feels VERY wallowy and soft. tell me exactly how this 20 cent coin thing works?? most defintaly interested, althuogh the rear tend to be more of a problem than the front.. tyres are new - front might have 6000's at a push, rear isnt even completely worn in yet and still has nipples on the outside edges (just)

    so if 30/30 is whats recomended.. if i run 34/36 or there abouts when im trvelling with the gear on the bike that should help it improve to some degree with checking the pressure??

    i couldnt tell you what ois in the tyres right now, ive come here first to find out whats im meant to have.. no point riding to the servo, getting some numbers that mean jack to me.. now i cna ride to the servo and at least have a clue as to what im looking at/for.
  5. personally with the Across i wouldn't go near 30/30.
    The Arrowmax likes 42/42 and Battle Axe is very similar at around 40/40. With the Across there is no real reason to modify the pressure so go with the higher settings, I never changed presure between solo and touring.

    The 20c thing is easy take your fork end caps off carefully as they are under pressure then place 3 x 20c pieces on the top of each fork then do the caps back up. If the front feels to firm then take 1 x 20c out then try again.
    Remember to support the front when doing this otherwise she's gonna get messy.

    As for the rear simple crank the shocker up to 6!
  6. I've never bothered with the front fork spacer, but I cranked up the rear preload pretty soon after I got the bike and noticed a definite improvement.

    I usually run mid-30s in the tyres (Arrowmaxes), btw. Seem to work ok. :)
  7. If you find the front end bottoms out easily (eg. at the bottom of the fjord near the Racecourse hotel, your front is too soft. You need the spacers. Team One/Advantage Honda can put them in for you pretty quickly, if you are not confident doing it yourself (I got mine done during a service). If the rear is feeling soft my money would be on low tyre pressure. Do as Shabby suggested and put the tyres up to around 40/40 and see the difference. No need to alter pressures for different situations. The only time I really changed mine considerably was for a track day. Do this before looking to adjust the rear setting.
    In regards to the noise, there will be some noise from the pads on the disks when the wheel rotates (more of a swish type sound as apposed to a clunk).