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Tuning a 94 YZF600 for drag racing

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by YZF600_OldSchool, Feb 18, 2006.

  1. hi just wondering if anyone could give me some tips for getting a bit more power out of my 94 yzf600 for drag racing it's stock as a rock at the moment and i am not looking for the answer that the local bike shop gave me which is buy a new one i mean i know an nice new r6 would eat mine but hey we aren't all rich are we?


     
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  2. well i'd say just do all the normal power mods. airbox, filter, full exhaust system, retune the carbs. that sorta stuff. but by the time youre done you might as well have just gone and bought a busa :grin:
     
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  3. buy a new one...

    i was so tempted to mod my yzf but those bikes are already highly tuned, it's not worth the time/money. i ended up selling the yzf and getting an old zx-9r for around the same price... it's already heaps faster and has more potential (and i'm selling it dirt cheap if you're interested)

    what times are you getting on the strip? unless you're a pro, i'd try to improve ur skill rather then modding... :)
     
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  4. I agree it's not worth it, but I used to have a rather trick 94 YZF600 (Ohlins, Mavic front wheel, Harris alloy fork damper rods).

    Throw on a loud muffler (I used a cheap Megacycle) and use little brass washers to shim up the carbie needles a tad, and use a K&N filter.

    Yamahas are not great drag bikes because all the YZFs and later FZRs have grabby clutches.

    You can 'full house' the YZF600 with big bore kit (using CBR900 pistons) and other stuff... UK mag 'Performance Bikes' did a series in which they did no-expense-spared tunes on a YZF6 and a 93 CBR6. The YZF ended up at 727cc and made about 115hp IIRC.

    But considering you could get a 98 ZX9R for about $7000....
     
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  6. Hey you know what's interesting? The YZF600 was held up as an example recently of a bike with a better low and midrange pull than the more recent R6 engines have - so your bike should be better off the line even if it drops off in the screamy high end.

    I don't know how drag racing really works, do you need high-end power or quick developing grunt to do well at the strip?
     
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  7. High end power Loz, assuming your gearing is right. Mid range power makes a vehicle nicer on the road (because you don't have to wring the tits off it) but as far as acceleration goes, the hp you generate is key (because it never leaves the power band).

    Justin.
     
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  8. high end power and low weight (assuming you can stay in the powerband) :twisted:

    you're almost right about the yzf600 being quicker off the line except that the R6 rider could slip the clutch to keep the revs up around peak power. add the fact that the R6 is 40? kg lighter... assuming the R6 has traction and if you can keep the front wheel down :p
     
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  9. sorry been really busy with work but thanks for the info my main problem is that a cr500 dirtbike is quicker off the line and as the drags are still only 1/8th mile i don't have the neccesary distance to catch them but my reaction time is averaging about 0.5sec with a best of 0.43sec so i don't think i can improve there to much as anything less than 0.4 is a redlight but certainly could improve on the gear changes i seem to keep over revving the gears hopefully the new shift light will help but we'll see
     
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  10. Very good, sensible advice, but when has drag racing had anything to do with sensible?
    I have no idea how to make your particular bike go faster, but half the fun (and all) the prestige lies in doing it yourself.
     
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  11. If you're only running 1/8 mile drags then you can well & truely afford to gear your bike down. At a guess you'ld hardly be getting out of 2nd gear would you? Lower the gearing & take advantage of the torque multiplication this will give you. More torque at the back wheel is what gives you acceleration. Your mates CR500 will top out at 160km/hr. Your YZF at about 230?
     
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  12. Wouldn't you be racing in DYO?

    For 1/8 as said earlier, gear down a bit. Gets more grunt, but if 1st is too low, try 2nd to take off.

    Make sure you fit a big red light for the tacho at best power range to change. Or get your ears to tell you if you can't watch tacho or a light.

    Practice your start, although your reaction times are very good in the .5-5 sec. After that it's a matter of getting good revs away, head down and change as you go.

    Problem is, it all costs lots of money.

    Good luck.
     
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