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Triggering turn arrows?

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by thermal, Aug 2, 2011.

  1. Title about says it all.

    There are a few choice places that never seem to want to trigger for me. I try to stand on the pegs and bounce which, unless it's my imagination, seems to work sometimes. I did have someone tell me that they're conductive and not pressure based, any truth in that?

    Anyway, any tips for triggering the tricky ones?
    • Like Like x 1
  2. Most, if not all, traffic ligts have conductive wires running on/in the bitumen. Some traffic lights are also timed base, so sometimes no trigger...but usually turning lights have triggers.

    Anyways if you look on the road at the lights before the white stop line, you will notice cuts in the bitumen, either squares or rectangles and they usually look shiny, rather than matte black like bitumen. That's where the conductive wire runs along to sense if a vehicle is there or not.

    I have found that if you park your bike within the square/rectangular markings you will trigger the light, if you sit outside of the sensor box...it will not pick it.

    So next time you roll up to the lights, slow down way before the white line and roll slowly and notice the markings on the ground...sometimes rolling slowly also triggers the sensors.
  3. Yeah, I normally know which are timed and which are triggered. I used my assumption that they were pressure based and usually roll through and onto one of the boxes, though after looking at the link above, I might try lining it up the middle and see how I go.
  4. my understanding is that they are calibrated to detect nothing under the size of a small hatchback.
    because we don't exist. or rather, VicTards like to think we don't. so, as in any and all urban/road planning/design.. motorcycles don't exist apparantly and won't be catered for.
  5. I can get most of them to trigger, even on a 250, just look for the square/rectangular cuts in the road surface and move about over them, back, forward, side etc. until you find the sweet spot (usually near the middle or slightly off centre).
    Works for me.
    Some don't, but its pretty rare.

    If there are cars behind me I move right forward so they sit on the trigger points, however many are retarded and you actually have to wave them forward and point to the pad.

    Pretty sure jumping around on the pegs isn't going to achieve anything accept make a few pedestrians laugh :)
  6. I've had good success lining up one of the 'cuts' and giving the front brakes a stab as I come to a stop - loads up the front wheel and seems to trigger them...
  7. Yeah, I usually sit in the box watching my mirrors and roll right forward if I see a car coming. And now that I know they aren't pressure based, I won't bother bouncing. :p
  8. if I get to a red arrow and there's no cars around me, I just treat the arrow as a stop sign.
  9. +1 treat em as a stop sign.. as long as theres no red light camera, if there is I put it on the stand, and run over to press the ped crossing button, to trigger the light change..

    however wondering if I cant trigger the light change, I prob wont trigger a red light revenue cam, not game enough to try..
  10. i've been through a red light camera on a red light (was trying to catch the yellow on the sachs - dick move) - believe me, they get triggered. When there's money to be made, they'll make sure it gets triggered by everything.
  11. Red light camera triggers are in front of the white line, light change trigger sensors are behind the white line, sometimes by up to a metre :).

    You'll trigger the red light cam, they are touchy ;)
  12. It's all about interrupting the magnetic field generated by the wires in the bitumen.

    Any metal will do it, I even get them to trigger on my steel framed bicycle.

    On the bike I just position myself between the left hand cut in the bitumen and the oil patch in the middle. Works pretty much every time. You have to stay within the lines though, otherwise it will assume you've changed your mind.

  13. You want to be in the middle of the box, not over a line. Park in the middle of the square (there are usually two joined together in the middle).

    Some people suggest magnets but I can't see how that would help.
  14. If you have a issue with a particular set of lights, find the control box and on it will be vicroads phone number and a box number. Give them a call and they will come out and adjust the sensitivity if that's an issue. I've done it for 2 sets of lights and they were pretty quick to act on it.
  15. I had exactly the same thoughts on my 250: if the light-sensors don't see me, what about the speed ones?
    I'm pretty sure it holds true based on my experience, but I wouldn't recommend trying it, obviously...
  16. Good idea, I might do that actually.
  17. There was one left turn I used to take that even cars had trouble setting off. I found it quite good because I could reach the pedestrian button. It actually sometimes worked faster.

    If the light had recently changed there was a set amount that it had to wait before changing again, however if no pedestrian had pushed the button at the last light change it changed almost instantly. No matter how long since it last changed.

    You learn a lot about a set of lights when you pass it every day and if your waiting for a bus its the only thing to watch.
  18. Heh yep, I know all the habits and trigger points of every set of lights on my commuter route and around the neighbourhood :D

    You get the slow changers, that rotate once every 5 minutes, the fast ones on small roads that have massive trigger pads and change instantly as soon as your touch them, the ones that always let the left and right turns go before going green (dangerous ones, I've seen a fair few cars floor it straight ahead as soon as the green turn right ARROW goes on...retards).

    Meh not much else to do when you wait at them day in day out. :)
  19. I've noticed that some lights will trigger faster if it detects more than one vehicle is waiting.