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Tricky oil leak trackdown advice

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Mr Owl PhD, Nov 16, 2015.

  1. Not much oil involved but I'd like to get rid of it if it's not going to get to difficult. I know that there was some oil coming from the clutch push rod but the front sprocket cover and chain have been cleaned up and a bit of grease has fixed up any oil coming from the clutch push rod, there is also no oil coming from the gear selector shaft, which is another known area. So the entire area behind the sprocket cover has been ruled out.

    There is always a drop of oil at the bottom of the cam chain tensioner, but it's hard to see how that is the cause as you can see from the photos below.

    Could it be the stator cover gasket or would there be some other seals inside there that could be causing this leak. Photos below.





  2. It's possible you do have a oil leak on the timing chain tensioner gasket or on the stator gasket.

    But it's always hard to tell in photos and the oil travels when you ride it.
  3. Try dusting it all with talcum powder, and then go for a ride. It might show more clearly where the leak is.
    • Informative Informative x 3
  4. My stator cover gasket was shite from new, but the original owner apparently ignored it.
    When I got the bike, it was 8 months out of warranty, so I simply replaced the gasket. Problem solved.

    8 months, 14k travelled since and she's still dry. Easy fix, worth doing.
    Good luck.
  5. OK thanks for all the answers.

    This might sound like a dumb question but I'll have to live with that... is there oil under pressure inside the stator cover? or is it just some oil that leaks from the parts. Or is it bathed in oil like the clutch?

    Should I attempt this myself, am I just looking at removing the old gasket and setting the right torque on the bolts, is that the extent of any problems I might run into? If the oil under there is not under pressure, does that mean I still need to do this on an oil change?
  6. The workshop did drain engine oil b4 removing the stator cover.
  7. OK, it's frikken done.

    What I discovered when replacing GS500 stator cover gasket...

    Unplug the cable that comes out of the stator at the bike end under the seat. It's difficult to trace the wires but it's the three yellow ones. Plug is a bit tricky needed to put a screwdriver under the catch to pull it apart. I was going to take the whole cable out but it was too difficult and looked like not much fun to thread back in so I just pulled enough through so I could sit the stator cover on a box. The starter motor cog pin came out with the stator cover and the cogs got loose but it was easy to get them all lined up and back in.


    The gasket was completely fcuked, looks like it must have been put on badly because it's hard to imagine how it could get like that. After trying to chip it off a millimetre at a time, I decided that I needed some gasket remover as it was hard as a rock and baked on. So after a bus trip to Autobarn I ended up with some CRC gasket remover. Heading the warnings that it will strip paint, I covered all the painted bike surfaces...

    However I did not know that the crankcase covers are actually painted, I did not realise that, but it didn't take long to discover as I could see the paint bubbling off as soon as I sprayed the gasket remover on the gasket. It would be pretty well impossible not to get this stuff on the crankcase unless it was ground off on a bench instead. So I have to live with some stripped paint. But it's not a big deal and it gives the bike a bit of character knowing how it got there and knowing that while it is missing some paint, it has a good gasket job.

    It was still not easy after two applications of gasket remover. I used the flat side of a spoon handle so as not to scratch the aluminium. When it was done I was about 98% happy but I couldn't get it completely perfect, just a few stains left and one very tiny surface scratch. I cleaned up the rubber bung with some soapy water and it dried to a nice non oily finish to take some silicone sealer where it fits into the crankcase and also on the flat side of the rubber. Otherwise the gasket was put on dry.

    The silicone on the flat side of the rubber bung also was useful in keeping the gasket in the right position to stop it pivoting on the single locating pin, so I'd recommend the sealer if only for that reason. After the cover snapped on all the bolt holes were clear so it seems it did not move out of position which was a bit of a worry with the magnet sucking the cover on.

    Put some loctite 243 on the bolts. 243 is meant to tolerate oil better than 242 as I can't see how I could clean the holes of oil. Bought a small stubby ratchet and used my muscle memory from 25 years ago when I last calibrated my feel against a stahlwille torque wrench, I think I got it close to about 9nm, so I was very pleased when after a couple of fangs of about 50Kms total that there was no oil at all seeping. All in all it was an entire day for me so I felt that I earned a couple of beers, I also think that the gf got a bit horny seeing me fix the bike so that is never a bad thing.



    • Like Like x 1