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Tricks to removing oil filter wrench?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by zx9er, Jul 29, 2014.

  1. G'day,

    I just did the oil and oil filter on my bike. I found when I removed the old filter that it was a real struggle to remove the wrench from the oil filter. Infact I had to tap it with a tack hammer to get it off the filter. So when I put the new filter on I just screwed it on by hand. Now I'm too afraid to ride it in-case its not on tight enough and I spew oil all over my back wheel while I'm riding.

    So does anyone know any tricks to putting this wrench on and getting it off real easy? Should I coat it in oil on the inside of the wrench and the outside of the filter? Or would this create a suction effect and make it worse? Mr sheen maybe? Any ideas?
  2. One way would be to loosen the filter just enough with the wrench, then undoing it the rest of the way by hand. When re-fitting, after tightening the filter, a slight movement anti-clockwise should be enough to help break the wrench away from the filter.

    Is this the type of wrench you're referring to? filter wrench.
  3. Yep that's the one. Its very hard to manouver as the filter sits behind the exhaust manifold and the oil cooler.
  4. Once you have loosened the old filter, use the ratchet handle to lever the tool back & forth, until it slips off the filter. You can then remove the filter the rest of the way by hand. After tightening the new filter, set the ratchet in reverse and slightly push on it until you feel the tool sort off un wedge itself from the filter. Then using the ratchet handle to wriggle it off.
  5. I've always tightened up an oil filter by hand, never had any problems of it coming loose
    • Like Like x 3
  6. Perhaps this type of remover will work better? I have one of these and does the job just fine.
    filter band.
  7. Yep - if you go much beyond hand-tight, you're setting yourself for a hard time getting it off next time you change the oil. (Of course, I'm assuming reasonable amount of hand/arm strength here.)
    • Like Like x 1
  8. I use a belt style wrench to get the filter off as they never get stuck on. Only do the new filter up hand tight (as firmly as your bare hand allows). If you use the wrench to put the new filter on, it will be near impossible to remove again.

    If you insist on using the wrench you have, removing a stuck filter should be quickly achieved by tapping it with a hammer or by boiling the kettle and pouring hot water on it.
  9. Use a large one of these to get the filter off:

    Then lubricate the seal of the new filter with engine oil, and screw it on as hard as your bare hands can. Job done!
  10. This type gets in the tight spots easily for me, and as Danny says 'lubricate the seal of the new filter with engine oil, and screw it on as hard as your bare hands can. Job done!'

    $_12.JPG usually found for around $10 in the budget tool stores
    • Like Like x 1
  11. Screwdriver and mallet

    /end thread.
  12. Screw driver and mallet generally works for the stuck filters, but a cold chisel is better since you get the rectangular profile hole giving you more resistance for torquing the bugger loose.

    But anyway, +1 on the handtightening as much as you can, plus a tighteness check once it's gone through a temperature cycle.
    • Like Like x 1
  13. i got one of those strap filter removel tools and it does the job , now i buy the k&n oil filter, it got the nut on the front, makes it so much easier to undo
  14. House mate was changing the oil on his bike today, and got to the point of getting the oil filter off but only had the car metal loop straps.


    To big to get a proper grip on the smaller filter... pizza box cardboard torn to inch strips looped around worked and rescued the day.

    Now it is replaced with one with a nut.
  15. If it's a K&N, he'll need to keep a look out for the nut to crack off, and leak the oil out. They've had a quality spill with some of their filters, from what I've heard.

    For stubborn oil filters, I get out the large adjustable pliers. They beat any filter tool I've tried, without a problem.
  16. When installing a oil filter a slight smear of oil on the gasket and once the gasket has mated to the block a 3/4 of a turn is all. ( I have only gone tighter in extreme vibration situation which was on a hydraulic vibrator and was also locked wired as well ). This has worked from servicing my 9R, nissan patrol to a mates D7 dozer and everything in between. If you are worried about it vibrating loose then lock wire it if K&N thats easy. If a standard filter then get a couple of good hose clamps, tighten the clamps around the filter then proceed to lock wire to the hose clamps.
  17. you dont do oil filters up with tools....

    hand tight is all that is required
  18. Exactly hand tight is how they're designed. Don't use a wrench when tightening, it's not going to seal any better using a wrench. If anything it'll seal worse because you'll be crushing the rubber gasket.
  19. I'd beg to differ slightly...... yes hand tight is usually sufficient and over tightening is very bad.

    But speaking from experience as I do an oil change every 2 track days.

    I had about 40 oil changes with just doing it hand tight and no problems. But one day it popped the seal and sprayed oil all over my back tyre as I was down shifting for crash corner at Broady. Needless to say I had no idea copious amounts of oil where being dumped on my rear until I went to turn in. Landed on my bum and then watched my bike catch on fire.

    So long story short I now use a torque wrench and do the exact amount of torque specified by the oil filter manufacturer.
  20. Yes you're right of course. Using an oil filter attachment that connects with a torque wrench is the best but most people don't have a torque wrench, they do it with a regular wrench or a strap style wrench and it's easy to over do it with them. Firmly hand tightened does the job but if you've got a torque wrench use that for every bolt!