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Trick for removing clutch and alternator stuff?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by L0Ki, Mar 15, 2008.

  1. Hey,

    I need some help removing a clutch fully and an alternator without the need for the special tools Kawasaki says you need.

    Im trtying to split the crankcase and cant go any further until these items are removed.

    For the clutch i need to remove every part of it and I;m up to the clutch basket i think its called. Not too sure. But it spins feely when trying to undo the bolt. I tried multicrips and broke one of the fins of some part of the clutch configuration. She'll be right though.

    Aparrently the alternator (magneto) ithink it is (its the magnet part) just need to be pulled off once the bolt is undone. I couldnt get it off if i tried.

    So anyone got any tricks for getting these items right off.

  2. Need more info pal. Photos?
  3. Their tool is basically a pair of vice grips, with pressed metal bits on the end to hold onto the hub.

    If you don't want to buy their tool for the clutch, Im sure you can figure something out :p
    One method I have heard of, involves welding a bar onto an old clutch plate. The bar will sit on your footpeg, and hold the basket from turning.
    Keep in mind, the tools exist for a reason. To make the job easier and safer. A generic holder would probably work better than most methods used to save money, and at less risk of damage.
  4. Here are some pics. Tried to be as detailed as possible.

    Clutch Parts

    Alternator Area.
  5. The bolts you circled hold the starter motor clutch on the back of it. I think you will need a puller to get that one off, someone might have a better idea but I'm out atm :p
  6. A rattle gun will pop it straight off.

    Failing that, find an old 1 or 2 cent piece and wedge it between those 2 big cogs you see there, then use a regular old socket and breaker bar. The copper won't harm the cogs.

    New clutch basket isn't cheap, stop doing dodgey shit.
  7. She'll be right only if you replace the basket - vibration will cause problems since it will now be out of balance.

    After looking at the pics - the clutch hub nut can be undone after locking the clutch. You need to sacrifice one hub plate, by welding a handle to it. You then hold the handle to stop the hub turning.

    The alternative is to put the clutch back together again, complete with springs, put the trannie in top gear and apply the brake while you work the nut loose. You will need a socket set and an extension.

    You will need the proper puller for the rotor.

    As devotard said: "Please don't be rough."

    All the best

    Trevor G
  8. +1
  9. In the days before rattle guns....

    Take a metre of clean window-sash cord, and tie a big knot in one end. Take out a spark plug and feed a good length of the rope into the cylinder . Turn the motor over by hand until it jams on the rope. Now that you've temporarily seized the engine, you can undo the clutch nut because the crank won't turn.

    When you're done, turn the motor the other way and take out the cord(thats why you tied the knot - to stop the whole cord from going into the cylinder), Put in the spark plug. Any rope fibres will burn off (which is why you use a soft, natural fibre rope).

    Please don't use multi-grips any more, or the workshop god shall smite thee.

    Edit: If you use the rope trick, be sure that the piston is approaching TDC on the compression stroke, so the rope is compressing against the combustion chamber - not against a partly open valve.
  10. That right there is workshop bible stuff. +1 for a kick ass post.
  11. A friction plate and steel plate bolted together or welded together does the trick, get a couple from the wreckers.
    When you are putting the whole show back together those bolts you are talking about need to be tightened very tightly ,on my bikes they require a very high amount of tension around 180-190 nm, very fkn tight.
    Therfore they will be very hard to get off too.
  12. If the motor is out of the bike and you know a friendly dealer you could try taking it to them to see if they'll remove the parts. It'll only take them a couple of minutes. They might even lend you the tools but don't count on it.

    Otherwise as TrevorG said. U need new basket.
  13. Thanks for the responses. I actually have a rattle gun. Never thought of using it though. Will give it a go

    Also what type of puller would be required to remove the stator? I had alook on ebay for puller and there alot of different pullers :S

    Thanks again.

    BTW: The engine is out of the bike as im looking to completly disassemble it and see whats wrong with it. Not to mention the snapped valve arm rockers on the exhaust 1st cylinder and snapped conrod.
  14. How many K's did the engine have on it when it died? Sounds like a decent amount of internal damage.
  15. No idea. Bike was a parts bike and im just seeing whats happenign in there. Bike was 90% complete. Could turn it over but it wouldnt start for reasons stated above that i have found so far.
  16. To remove the rotor, you'll need a rotor puller. That threaded hub on the rotor looks like the same size as the one on a ZXR250, and I haven't been able to find anyone in Sydney who either sells the tool or will lend me one. Southern Cross Sports can import one, but $250 for a single use is a lot to pay. I am planning to ask an eBay seller if I can borrow his for a week - if I manage to get a hold of it, I'd be happy to bring it over to your place so you can use it.

    If you have the GPX manual, look up the Kawasaki part number for the rotor pulling tool, or the dimensions of that threaded hub.

    'Course, if the pricks at Newcastle Kawasaki had removed it for me like I paid them $400 to do, instead of sealing a badly damaged rotor back up in my bike, knowing full well that it was damaged and that it was the very thing I needed done because I didn't have the tools myself, it wouldn't be an issue, would it?
  17. The rotor puller is part number 57001-1216, it appears to be a standard puller over lots of Kawasaki models, with a differing size end nut which screws on, the part number for the nut for a gpx is 57001-1223.

    Send me a PM if you need the service manual btw.
  18. Ah they're different, but I'll ask the guy if he has the tools for a GPX250, anyway. It'll all be the same when he replies with 'lol no :roll: '