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torque wrenches

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by RacingTurtles, Jan 13, 2006.

  1. I'm not a very handy type, and my toolbox consists of a hammer and a screwdriver. I thought I would expand it with a torque wrench, because my booklet warns to use one for things like changing oil and adjusting the chain, which is really pretty much as far as my ambitions go in this department.

    The question is, what kind do I need? I don't mean a brand - that will be decided by my budget! I just mean, what size, whatever. They are talking about things like 3/8in and 1/2 in, what on earth does that mean, and more importantly, which one do I have to get? My bike is a good old Honda CB250...

    Also, where would be a good place to buy one? I went to Bunnings Warehouse, but to my suprise they had only one. A HUGE thing... didn't seem quite right.

    I'd appreciate some help because I'm completely lost with these things, and the time to change oil approaches, and I think the chain needs to be tightened up as well...
  2. 3/8 and 1/2 inch are the size of the drives ... try super cheap auto ... the 1/2 one is likely to be pretty big .. most things you would ever use it on a bike a 3/8 drive would suffice .. their handy devices for non mechanical people to use as it stops you over tightening things and stripping threads which is most common thing that happens

    a torque wench ....... a wife that wont shut up ...lol
  3. I bought mine at Repco. Its badged Repco but in fact its from the UK.
    I saw some decent tools at Burson's too.
    I think the 3/8 and 1/2 refers to the type of socket set you choose to use with your torque wrench and that the 1/2 is heavier duty than the 3/8.
  4. Torque wrenches seem to be calibrated in 2 or 3 different ranges.
    You may need to look at the most common torque settings that you would normally use in your bike manual.
  5. A torque wrench is a wrench with a little meter on the back that tells you how much "torque" you are applying...

    Basically in your user manual it will tell you that you need to apply XX amount of torque to a screw to ensure that it is tight enough, but not too tight... (a good example of this is your sump plug)

    The sizing is how big the little square connector is on the torque wrench...

    If you already have a socket set, you might want to take in the wrench that goes with that sothat you can use your existing sockets with your spanking new torque wrench...

    If you dont have a socket set, pick one up at the same time...
  6. Try some of the dedicated tool places, in qld we have trade tools etc. For a bike the 3/8 will be fine, check the max torque used on your bike (should be in the manual, probably an axle nut or similar), and by one that will do that torque. They come in many forms, some have a dial, but the best ones have a knob you turn to set the torque, and then when you are doing the bolt up, they will "click" i have nice sidcrome 1/2, but i work on cars alot, and need the power (also have a 3/4inch drive for the car's hub nuts). and when it comes to tools, spend a little, usually the really cheap ones are rubbish and will not be as accurate in the long term and may not last that long. my sidcrome is from my dads tool collection and he bought it in the 70's and its still accurate........
  7. Thanks for your replies! So it looks like 3/8in is the go... Now, I don't have a socket set; I'll need to pick one up as well. So... what type? I take it the sockets will have to be 3/8 in size at the wrench end. What about the other end - I think there are different standards as well, metric, imperial, whatever - isn't that right?... would you happen to know which one will be needed for this bike? (CB250). I don't want to collect a whole shed-worth of tools, just to get what I need for right now....
  8. It's a japanese bike so everything on it should be metric - get yourself a decent set of 3/8 drive metric sockets and you should be fine.
  9. i love em
  10. Make sure you get some good brand name sockets (sidcrome,kingcrome,snap on (I wish:() etc), alot the cheaper ones arn't made to the same tolerances and may round nuts. Then there is a debate about 6 or 12 sided sockets.

    You should be able to get a good set of sockets that will have 8 or 10mm up to 18 or so, and then maybe a 19,21 etc. make sure the biggest will cover the alrgest bolt on teh bike. Unless you dealing with english things, metric will be fine (are the new british bikes metric?) and you can always use metric on a imperial at a pinch, eg 1/2inch inperial is 12.5mm (approx) so some 12 or 13mm metrics will fit.
  11. it's always struck me as a bit funny that we drive metric sockets with an imperial sized driver. I see why (so we only need one ratchet, if only the same logic was applied to that which is driven), but its still funyy.

    Ah well, at least whitworth is all but dead and gone.
  12. It's probably backwards compatibility. Sockets tend to last a long time, so there would be a lot of kits out there that were built before or during the metric conversion. So, it's easier to make the square drive at 1/2" or whatever.

    As for the OP, a 3/8 drive torque wrench may not be useful for all applications. I certainly wouldn't tighten up an axle nut with one. (usually a shifter will suffice - tighten it to FT standards).

    As for brands, I've always used Warren & Brown and have a 1/2" drive W/B wrench. You can buy adapters and mine comes with one to allow me to use smaller sockets with it. But bear in mind, 3/8" sockets don't go to very large sizes, so a 3/8" wrench may not be able to handle the bigger jobs. I can't remember what the torque range for mine is, but it's a shortish handle affair. Good enough for torquing head bolts on the bike or tensioning down camshaft bearing caps.
  13. I have a socket set puchased from a market. Two actually, metric & imperial. I have used them for 10- 15 years. Still as good as when I got them. Even today they sell for approx $45. They come with 1/2" & 1/4 drives, The most popular drive sizes. That & a resonable Torque wrench, cos you might be a little ham fisted. Or not ham fisted enough as I have seen on many occasions.( not tight enough ) Then ask people who know what they are talking about. Then you wont have any trouble.
  14. please don't tell me you use a shifter, if you do you need a good whack over the head with it :p :wink: . SHIFTER ARE NOT FOR TIGHTENING OR UNDOING, the only thing they are good for are stirring paint, hammering in nail in womens shoes or just too fill up the shadow board and make it look you actually have some clue as too what you are doing :LOL:

    no i have one in the car, on the odd chance i don't have the correct size spanner, but thats it..... :wink:
  15. We have three of them in our collection of tools. One, brand unknown for doing the really big jobs like wheel nuts and alternator nuts and then two that do the same job! Sort of. There is a Teng Tools 3/8 drive with a degree head which caused considerable drama to the household. Did the 20,000km service on my bike tensioned up the lock nuts on the cam pulleys to 72nm and rechecked. Finished the service and then 18,000kms further on one of the lock nuts undid itself and yes they were loctited and new. Cam pulley worked on camshaft the belt moved and sawed through the belt cover and then all four valves met the piston! Bike still ran only on the front cylinder and limped back to pit lane (we were on a track day). After spending $2,500 on parts and that included a secondhand exhaust camshaft and pulley I wasn't allowing my Husband to trust that torque wrench again. I bought another, a beautiful Snap On Digital (useful up to 140nm) - excessive perhaps but cheap if such a thing never happens again! We did a comparison and the Teng Tools wrench was 25% low!!!! We have kept it for using the degree head - but that is all! So even though you won't be doing the stuff we do in our garage! Don't go with Teng Tools for a Torque wrench!!
  16. It's funny - when it comes to buying tools I've always gone for "name" brands eg Sidchrome etc.

    But about 10 years ago I picked up an el cheapo Korean socket set (metric and imperial, with various extenders, different sized "handles", etc) for $20.

    I figured that if it turned out to be crap, I'd only blown $20. It's still going strong, hasn't rounded off any nuts, and looks good for at least another 10 years...
  17. Out of interest, how much for the Snap On Digital?
  18. G, it was an obscene amount of money, I am embarrassed because of it, but it is Red, so I had to have it and it vibrates too and makes buzzy noises - what more could you want. Husband said I should have negotiated price as he thinks Snap on Man could have been talked down. Its specs are not available on the Australian page but here it is on the US site http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...=17226&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all - and I was a bit generous about the top end measure its only 135nm not 140nm. So if that is USD try doubling it and adding a bit - $750.00. The Snap On Man said he had it in the Truck and it was only a bit more than a non digital - what could I do!! Poor Yellow was suffering with sore bits!! and as you know we do all our servicing - so I figured it was a good buy. Thats my excuse and I am sticking to it!
  19. Thanks.

    That is serious kit.
  20. "That is serious kit." Indeedy so, but as you know we are fairly serious about service and maintenance and very serious about our family of bikes.