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Torque Wrench

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Roybot, Aug 28, 2007.

  1. Torque wrenches are so confusing, i'm looking to buy one, anyone with any idea what a good size/measurement is for japanese bikes??

  2. don't bother with the dial type. Other then that I can't say i've run out of range with the one I bought without that much thought
  3. I have two.......
    both W&B brand (buy a decent one...NOT from Supa'elcheapo)

    one is from 5-40ft lbs (and also shows Nm)
    and the other is from 20-250 ft lbs (also shows Nm)
    both are ½" sq drive ones...so I can also use them on the car

    some prefer the 3/8 or ¼" sq drive on a bike (size you see)

  4. For bikes you only basically need two,
    one in INCH pounds
    one in FOOT pounds

    Spend as much as you think is right for what your doing and your budget.
    Even the big expensive ones can be out if not calibrated regularly. And I can bet 90.9% of torque wrenches in professional toolbox's have NEVER been calibrated since they were purchased,and are 'supercheap' ones

    Thats why alot of new stuff coming out has a new torque recommendations so the the bolt/nut is somewhere close to the reqd spec.

    eg: torque to 95FP then turn the bolt a further 90deg
  5. ahhh cool, yeh i think i'm going to try pick up a kinchrome one for about 180, probably in 3/8

    cheers guys
  6. Ahh don't get the kinchrome one!

    The kinchrome are the dial type that the poster above said to stay away from. I just bought a Warren & Brown deflecting beam type in 3/8th drive and it cost me $240. It goes from 5nm to 100nm and pretty much covers everything I need for the bike and most for the car as well. The deflecting beam are much more accurate over the entire range but the dial type can vary a fair amount when you get to the lower or higher torque values in their range. The Warren & Brown are also very simple to calibrate where the dial type are practically a throw away if they are out of calibration. I know sidchrome have just released a deflecting beam style wrench but I think it is priced in the 200's as well (Repco have just started stocking them).

    Trust me in saying you are better off investing the $60 extra and getting a W&B that will last 20 odd years.
  7. [quote="woodsy109Trust me in saying you are better off investing the $60 extra and getting a W&B that will last 20 odd years.[/quote]

    my two W&B's are about 20years old (calibrated every few years)
    and are still excellent tools to use....
  8. What's an inch?
    What's a pound?
    What's a foot?
  9. Please explain :?

    I have a 25 year old one with a needle and a newer click one both cheapies.
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  11. Something to note regarding bolt torques and torque wrenches is that, in many applications, the absolute number is less critical than that all the bolts in a particular array should be the same. Any reasonable quality torque wrench should achieve this OK, even if it's a bit out of callibration.

    And I think I just made a bit of a hash of explaining that :oops: .
  12. A tip for keeping your torque wrench (we used to call them tension wrenches back in the olden days). Don't squeeze the arm that does the deflecting back onto the static part with the "clicker" sensor. It can stuff the wrench's calibration. Likewise, don't use them to undo bolts, either.

    If it's mainly for work on bikes I'd go for the 3/8 drive models. Warren and Brown are as good as any, if they're still around. You can buy 3/8 to 1/2 drive adapters, anyway. If you get a larger wrench with a 1/2 inch drive, its sensitivity for smaller jobs won't be as good if you bought a smaller one in the first place.

    Finally, as someone else said, the idea is more to evenly torque down whatever it is you're bolting together rather than the actual torque on the bolts themselves. And to follow the prescribed tightening pattern, starting from the inside and working your way out, in the case of a multi cyl. head, for example.
  13. a 3/8" drive version is perfect for the bike. 10-80Nm just about covers everything except possibly wheel axles and swing arm pivots.
    Brake calipers are usually around 25Nm, cam caps around 12Nm, Engine mount bolts 35-40NM.
    Have a look in the torque section of your manual to see the full range you will need.
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  15. 320_wandb.


    This is a Warren and Brown Dual-Signal torque wrench. They work by applying torque to a deflecting beam rather than a coil spring which provides consistant and accurate readings throughout the whole range.


    This is the micrometer type knichrome one. It has a coil spring which due to a springs properties, can be less accurate at the higher and lower end of the wrench's range.
  16. I wouldn't worry too much about using a TW on these sorts of bolts or nuts. As long as they're FT, then they should be fine.

    As posted earlier, TWs are best for applications requiring even torquing down, such as cylinder heads. And you start with a low setting for each round of sequential torquing down, working up to the final tightening.

    Having said that, I watched a Ducati mechanic torque the rear wheel retaining nut on Bayliss's bike once. But then that's probably a specialised situation.
  17. Yeah I'd agree, with the high torque specified, it probably wouldn't matter if you were a few pounds out and you should be able to do it by feel.
    Although I'd probably stay away from FT and tighten it to AR (About Right).

    Bayliss probably has Ti Axels and nuts so they may be more torque critical.
  18. vtrbob is right, as usual.
  19. most japanese bikes will use metric so Nm should be the go.
    and Warren and Brown is the best to get they specialise on torque wrenches.
    I should know coz my company sells more W&B than any other brand of TR
  20. Check in your workshop manual / owner's manual for the torque wrench values and find out what units they are written in. For example, if they're in ft/lb's (foot pounds), then make sure you get a torque wrench that has ft/lb's graduations. The best type of torque wrench for a bike owner would be a simple "clicker" type, where you set the torque value on the handle, and tighten up the nut / bolt until the handle "clicks". This eliminates the need to keep your eyes on a dial or deflection gauge, especially if you're in a dark area of your shed....