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Torque Wrench

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by PEEair, Mar 26, 2012.

  1. So I'm planning to buy a torque wrench and since I have never own one I have a few question.
    The one I'm looking at is the Kincrome MTW200I Micrometer Torque Wrench 1/4" Square Drive
    Would that be good enough? I don't have enough money for the expensive one.

    Also what does it mean by square drive? And does the wrench come with different heads for different size bolt or do I purchase that separately?
  2. without looking, This sounds like a smaller wrench for smaller torques, which is very usefull as a tool.

    IF you want to do BIG stuff like axles and swingarm linkages etc. you will need a big one. There are generic ones in all auto stores for about $50 (supercheap etc.)

    watch it though, the big ones are very powerful and will snap bolts easy peasy
  3. What dgmeister said. If you want to do axles etc you will most probably need a bigger one. Check the torque settings of the stuff you want to do. From that link this one does
    20 - 200 inch/lb, 2.0 - 24.0 Nm.

  4. Basically you need both a small and a large one.

    When tightening threads in aluminium its especially important to get the torque right, and because of the low torque values, the small wrench will be best for that.
  5. Yeah I'm planning to buy this one first for smaller bolts, for changing oil and such. So what does it mean by square drive?
  6. ???

    Just the square head on the end for attaching to sockets. But yep, you really need two, although I only use the big fella for rear axle nuts.
  7. Standard sockets. 1/4" size.

    The Kincrome wrenches are ok, just need to care for them. You need to reset them to 0 after use and can't unwind them too much.
  8. Is a deflecting beam torque wrench better? I've found a Kincrome 3/8” Square Drive Deflecting Beam Torque Wrench for $150, it's about $60 more than the micrometer one but it range from 5-120Nm which seem to be more useful.

  9. Maybe check the manual on that, I thought you were supposed to loosen them to about 10lbs/ft, youre not supposed to loosen them to zero.
  10. You should also consider the size of sockets you wish to use. For larger nuts such as axles you will probably find the sockets are only available in 1/2" drive. Adapters are readily available to increase from 3/8" to 1/2" but you can also buy a torque wrench with 1/2" drive.

    I am guessing sockets are also on your shopping list so just make sure the drive size match.

    The deflecting beam wrench will be ok for most applications.
  11. The deflecting beam ones are awesome for home use as they don't need re-calibrating like the clicker type torque wrenches. I bought a $30 deflecting beam torque wrench off ebay a few years ago. I have used in on everything to cylinder head studs to axles and it hasn't missed a beat. The only thing you have to do is make sure that the needle touches zero before you start, and if it doesn't, just bend it back into place. Unless you are going to be using it a lot, really want the extra convenience of the clicker type and are prepared to pay to get it calibrated periodically, I would recommend the beam type.
  12. So what is the go with the regular type? Do these lose their calibration easily or something?????

    I don't like use a big one for smaller bolts, because the leverage is so easy to misjudge, even if you do set the torque right.

    I don't have a small wrench, but smaller bolts are easier to judge just by feel, If you are just using a little spanner.
  13. I haven't used a clicker type one so this is all what I've read or heard from other people....

    I don't know if I'd say the clicker ones go out of calibration easily, but they do go out of calibration over time, whereas the beam type don't go out if calibration.
  14. Do they? How?, Or rather, why?

    Why not?

    For what it's worth, if you're doing work that requires a torque wrench I'd be spending the money for a good one. Me, I've stuck with the Warren & Brown brand since I got my first TW back in the late 70s.

    Oh, never UNDO anything using one. Best way to root it up completely...
  15. The spring inside them doesn't spring back, it's time that kills them but leaving it wound up will kill it. And as always the more expensive will last longer.

    I've used one that was 30fy/lb out of calibration, more reliable to use a spanner.
  16. I bought a nice Norbar torque wrench for work in the knowledge that I would steal it for the bike. We get it calibrated annually, as recommended. If you don't get them calibrated you may as well not have them, but there's nothing like a nice torque wrench.
  17. Disagree.

    In the majority of cases met by the home mechanic, uniform torque on a set of bolts is more important than the absolute number and an out of calibration torque wrench will give you this just as well as a properly calibrated one.

    Something that's 30 ftlbs out would be a problem but that would be an extreme case. I've got a 40+ year old Norbar which has never been calibrated and whilst I wouldn't make any claims for absolute accuracy a rough check against a breaker bar of known length with a known weight on the end indicates that it's still close enough for jazz. No, not ideal, but a lot better than a spanner and guesswork. Should I ever need to be more confident of its accuracy, a calibration rig (again, based on known lever lengths and weights) won't be too hard to improvise.

    A much more significant point than the type and calibration of the torque wrench for most amateurs is the state of the bolt thread. Do you check the manual to find out whether the threads should be dry or lubracated? If the latter, what with? If you don't, the best torque wrench in the world is useless for anything but uniformity and would be dodgy for that if all the threads are not identically clean or lubed. In my experience, most amateurs and not a few professionals are either ignorant or lazy enough to skip this step. I've also come across plenty of workshop manuals which don't provide the information.

    When it comes down to it, though, torque settings are a fairly mediocre compromise for setting bolt tensions. The only truly reliable way is to measure the stretch of each bolt directly with a micrometer but this is not practical in many cases, such as a bolt going into a blind hole. However, in industry, where bolt tensions are really critical the effort tends to be made.
    • Like Like x 1
  18. I have checked my not expensive wrench (not mine from new and as far as I know never recalibrated) against another not expensive one and found they both read the same.

    Either they both had the same dgree of error, which seems unlikely, or they were both accurate.
  19. Oh I have one of those too, bought it from Repco in 1980. I still have the receipt :) It cost $74.98 and I am guessing that would be a fair hunk of change in today's money. Of course there was no GST back then :)
  20. I was taught that you should never used a torque wrench to undo things too... dont even know if its actually possible to :p.