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Tool help required!

Discussion in 'The Pub' at netrider.net.au started by Ktulu, Jul 4, 2007.

  1. We need a special tool here, but dunno where to find what would do the job.

    Story: we put some some pumps together that are very large, interference fit, and a total prick to put together.
    The most difficult part is [simplified explanation] drawing a thick spiral metal rod [rotor], down through a rubber spiral lined steel-sleeve [stator].
    At the moment, we put a threaded bar into a small tap on the end of the metal rod, then run a thrust-bearing and nut down the threaded bar against a bracket on the end of the ‘stator’.

    As the nut winds down against the bracket over the hole in the stator, the nut doesn’t descent: it pulls the threaded-bar through it and out of the stator: bringing the rotor up with it.

    … we’d like to do this faster and using less manpower.

    The ideal tool is a hollow socket that can wind the nut down and allows the threaded bar to come out the back of it… or a geared ratchet would do the same – but these are labour intensive as we're talking winding a nut down 3 metres of thread by hand.
    An air/electric powered version of either of these would be fantastic, however the only company with a solution for us, so far, has said it’d cost $13,000 for them to make the tool to suit – as we need it to accomodate M16 threaded bar through it.

    Any ideas on something ready-made?
    Here's a basic pic of what we currently accomplish slowly and with difficulty... the nut and bearing take the load and do the work, not a LOT of torque is required. A pneumatic or electric ratchet would do it fine, it's just that I can't find any that are of a hollow design to allow the threaded-bar through and out the back of them.

    [​IMG]


     
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  2. Ktulu I'm not exactly clear on what you're after but if I'm close, I think something similar could be used in drilling/mining operations.
    Might pay to have a chat to some engineering companies that work in these fields.

    I have a brother operating a drilling rig (west africa at the mo) and the stuff they have made is mind blowing.
     
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  3. Hmmm, I'm not sure I quite get the picture. In fact, pictures would help! Not sure where the interference fit comes in. Surely not between the stator and rotor. Also, you haven't mentioned the size (diameter, weight) of these pumps, which may help. Are you doing it sideways or vertically?

    Anyway, do you need to pull it through with a threaded bar? Have you thought about screwing a eye bolt into that tapped thread in the end of the metal rod, and then using a cable winch to pull it through?

    Not as safe, smooth, or accurate, but could be a lot faster. I'm thinking a winch like used on a 4WD, which is pretty slow but pulls up to 9000 Kg at a reasonable price. There are probably 240V versions available. That'll still cost you at least $2000. Maybe need some brackets, mounting, etc.

    I could see a specialist tool using a worm drive or bevel gear setup costing a few thousand dollars, dependent on design, professional insurance for liability etc. Thirteen thousand may be exessive though.

    Really large pumps (greater than 3 metres across) are typically assembled using cranes, specialist lifting equipment and presses.
     
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  4. Check out the Bevel Gear Jack and Rack and Pinion Jacks here:
    Check this

    A jack could pull as easily as push. The companies listed may have something to meet your needs. Take a look around the site. Might see something you like. :grin:
     
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  6. If, as I gather, all you are doing is winding a nut down a rod, from where I was working at Kenworth, at their truck plant, a tool that is used in shop is the equivalent of an air ratchet that I can imagine is perfect for your application if you are using the same sized dowels repeatedly.

    Imagine an air rachet assembly where instead of the head of an air ratchet, you have an open hole. inside that hole is a gear that has a hexagonal hole cut into it. as long as you have one end of the dowel free, you are able to just remove the tool from the dowel once it is through.

    The reason the tool is good only for manufacturing, as the machine requires fiddley work to replace the bit at the end of the head. (for different sizing).
    I cannot remember if the tool has a torque cut out, but it is a pretty torquey little bugger and only goes about 180 or so rpm, so it is easy to control.

    I can't remember the name of the tool company, and google threw up naught, so I'll have to put you through their engineering liason department. If you are interested, pm me and I'll chuck you their contact details.


    Ratchet.
     
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  7. sorry dude, i think you are too much of a tool already for me to be able to help. :cool:
     
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  8. Thank you, eswen, I appreciate your honesty and input :p


    rs101 - that is EXACTLY what I was thinking of - would be very useful for this app.
    Manual 'socket-set' versions available off the shelf, but I can't find anyone with Google who does a ready made air/electric version.
    PM sent...

    _joel_ - I'm currently doing some research on modifying an electric motor and right-angle gearbox into a threaded hollow shaft version, that we can anchor down... hold on, I'll try and draw a better picture of what we want to accomplish...

    ok

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    RoderickGI - as a Hilux owner, I personally LOVE the eye-bolt and winch idea, and it would be the best thing for assembly I think. The only issue is, sometimes we have to disassemble these things also: using the same system, we can anchor the bracket and push the rotor back out of the stator.

    ... so winch = great solution for assembly!
    Any ideas for pushing the damn thing back out again? :)

    The fit between the black rubber lining of the stator and the metal rotor is very tight [imagine trying to get your head inside a latex motorcycle helmet! :p].
    We assemble these large ones horizontally.

    We dream of cranes, specialist lifting equipment and presses :grin: actually, a crane is planned as we are moving premises in the next 12 months anyway - we utilise an engine hoist and a forklift at the moment.
    A big hydraulic press would be nice, but the thing would have to be ridiculously enormous and super expensive - these pumps are 3 metres long and weigh half a tonne [with drive].
     
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  9. You must admit, mate, you DID leave yourself open for that!
     
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  10. I am sure you can get pneumatic ring spanner type things. Saw them looking through a catalogue at my old work.

    I can't remember where from or the specs on them though.

    James
     
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  11. The Bevel Gear Jack and Rack and Pinion Jacks from my second post could either push or pull on the Rotor. I think the Bevel Gear Jack can be powered. Anyway, if you check out the companies mention in that link, you may find a supplier for what you need. Joyce, Haacon, and Pfaff (if you can find the right division of Pfaff :roll: ). Joyce have a good reputation.

    If you pick a supplier, they could probably customise one of their standard jacks for you, at a lot less than $13K.

    Check out http://www.joycedayton.com/ You may even find a Linear Actuator or Electric Cylinder which will push or pull the Rotor through the Stator no problem. They have Linear Actuators up to 2000 lb force. (A ton)

    Hint: Use a good water based lubricant. :twisted:
     
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  12. Any update?
     
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  13. I've heard he is still a tool. :cool:
     
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  14. :rofl: :rofl: :beer: :applause:
     
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  15. I got your spanner here ktulu. I work at holden and we use one for a similar purpose, but to get it over the top of a fluid line it has a slot cut in one side.

    This has an open end on both sides, so your threaded bar can run straight out the back of the ratchet. It is air operated, requires little maintenance and can be easily modified to make it a permanant fixture of your machine.

    http://www.transquip.com.au/product.aspx?ID=5082&PARENT=119

    Hope this helps buddy, let me know how you go.
     
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