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Too n00b to know better

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Gord, Aug 15, 2012.

  1. So I had my GS500 serviced late last month, as a precaution for my 5,000km trek next week for the Black Dog Ride. New tire on the back, and I asked them to look into a 'lurching' that was evidently noticeable around 50 kmph. it seemed every circulation of the chain I would feel a slight resistance. I also asked them to tighten my left mirror stalk.

    $350 service, and +$150 for a new rear tire. Picked up the bike, the mirror wasn't tightened, the lurching was still there, and I had to take it on their word that the 'full safety check' i asked for was done. Handed over $560 no questions asked.

    2.5 weeks later, my bike is leaking oil like a whore. I take it back, they say that they went no where near the left side of the engine.

    I'm sorry, but if I ask for a full safety check, and pay over $350 for service ALONE for a GS500... (aka basically ****ing bullet proof), would you not call foul over an oil leak 14 days after the service?

    Don't get me wrong, I know things can go south, but I bought this bike 4 months ago with 9050km on the clock. it now has 18,500... I can't help but feel that if i never took my bike to them, it would be in better condition.

    The lurching was never looked into, and the mirror stalk completely untouched. ( I don't have the right socket to tighten it ) So two out of 3 requests completely ignored, and the third issue (basic service) has resulted in oil leaks.

    They claim it's nothing to do with them, as they went no-where near the alternator side of the engine. Why this didn't happen after I requested a full check is bizzare. The GS hasn't changed in 20 years.

    Incredibly co-incidental as far as i'm concerned. Yet they want to charge me a whole load of new oil, as when they drop the left side of the engine apparently all the oil will be lost... why they can't drain the oil THEN work on the gasket is beyond me.

    I'd love anyones input... I'm very happy to re-book to anyone out west melbourne.

    I need my bike ready to ride 5,000km next week.
  2. Hi [MENTION=37503]Gord[/MENTION], Sorry to hear of your problems. Your time is short before you go so I don't think you have time to argue with your original mechanic. See if Pete at E2W can help get you mobile.

    If you had time you could give the original mechanic a chance to explain the failure to do the work asked and the leak. You have no proof though that the leak is anything to do with their work. You may have to chalk it up to experience.
  3. Ouch
    Draining oil and then reusing wont happen.
    It just isnt done.

    Maybe some peeps here can advise like above
    Wether price is right n where better options are
    If price was to steep.
  4. I dont trust most mechanics in my area to do what they charge to do...............im still hoping that there are honest guys out there, which im sure there are.

    Im starting little by little to do my own stuff.........of course theyll be stuff ups along the way, buying wrong parts, and many tools to buy.......but its fun and always good to learn new stuff.
  5. Good point
    You can Utube pretty much any procedure and
    See if its possible for you.
  6. the quote is $150 including a repair to the spanking new rear tire (screw). Sound about right?
  7. Personally I'd just repair the tyre myself with one of those repair kits (i'm sure it's what they would do anyway) and it's quite simple to do.

    Your invoice should itemise exactly what was done at service and the price is about right based on my experiences. Does it lurch under braking or just at speed?

    Quickly whack in a new batch of oil and you should be sweet for the ride (wish I could go - it's such a worthy cause - good on you). :applause:
  8. I have an emergency puncture repair kit, but I'm hoping to save that for the trip. He quoted $50 to take the tire off and repair it from the inside (properly). Having put the tire on only 2 weeks ago I wouldn't be satisfied with just a plug.

    Re the ride, Cheers. Depression has effected my life greatly and needs to be talked about.
  9. As far as I know when they repair a hole "professionally from the inside", they just use a different type of plug. So it's still a plug.

    I assume someone's warned you that new tires attract punctures more than old tires. Life's weird that way.
  10. The push through pull out style plug (commonly referred to as a dog Sh1t plug) is really only for emergency use only, to the best of my knowledge (in car tyres anyway) this type of plug is not a legal repair and is also prone to failure hence unsafe for long term or permanent repair.

    The type of repair plug used by a professional tyre company is vastly different. The correct plug is called a mushroom plug (as it looks like a mushroom with a round patch and a stork or plug connected), If done correctly with the right plug the nail/screw etc is removed the hole is drilled out to clean the damage, then the inside area is buffed for glue adhesion.

    The Round part of the plug is meant to seal the area to prevent air leaking and the stork of Mushroom plug is pushed through the hole and cut to the correct length (flush with the tread) The purpose of the stork is to prevent water etc entering the initial hole. This will prevent a separation in the tyre witch will result in tyre failure (in the case of steal belted tyres) it will prevent the belts rusting also resulting in tyre failure.

    Potentially useless information but my help some to understand, if you use the push through style plugs please get it correctly repaired ASAP.

    Cheers Daniel
  11. i agree with the toad, Toadally.
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Me too, you are going on a long trip, tyres are important, don't "screw" around with the repair.
  13. Quick question with the oil leak. Is it at the rear of the engine, around the gear lever?

    If it is the oil could be just the crap from the chain, well known problem. If not, the stator housing gasket is not that hard to do and only has a few oil passages through it.
  14. My GS500 has had an annoying little oil leak for a couple of months. Took it in for a service and asked for the leak to be found and fixed. Turns out it is on the front of the engine to the left.

    Worse, it is from the headgasket and will require a fair amount of disassembly to fix. I'm glad it will be a warranty repair. Bike has only done 6,000km in the 6 months since it was bought brand new. The chief mechanic said he has seen a couple of other GS500s with the same problem. :(
  15. All fixed... I had to do it myself though, as there was no loan bike / scooter available. Took two hours, but I'm pretty sure I've done it right. Even if I did lay her down on a spare mattress. (Spilled zero drops of oil this way ;) )

    The old gasket was completely hard, brittle and not looking in a good way at all... took a good 1.5 hours to get it off and clean. Some oil gasket sealant on both parts, and she went back on pretty neat. Finger tight bolts, left for one hour, then come back and wrenched them down. Sat overnight, no leaks, and no leaks after my 35km this morning. Here's to next week!

    Puncture fixed from the inside, $50. not bad. Only gripe is they could have pumped the rear brakes for me before I required them pulling out!!! =D>

    The spillage was definitely oil, as it was changed just two weeks ago and was still golden and transparent. There was ALOT of gunk off the sprocket that I cleaned.
  16. Good job Gord.

    PS. You aren't "Gordz" from the Ford FOrums are you? That ute looks familiar....
  17. Gord,

    glad to hear it is all sorted now.

    I too hate this type of service, so if your not happy with the service or quality of work, go see the Dept of Fair Trading (or the relevant authority for your state) an put in a complaint. You may get your money refunded.

    'Name and shame' is often mentioned in cases like this; however, I believe you'd leave yourself open to some type of legal action.

    Unless a bike is under warranty (or the job is too technical or requires specialist tools) I will do all the basic services myself (plenty of video footage available on line), just get hold of a service manual for your bike, then have a go. (I recommend that the specified torque tensions are followed) This is a great way to know your bike, pick up any early problems, improve your confidence when out in the sticks, and save $$$$.

    Regarding tyre plugs... I have used these a few times on my tyres, never had a problem, even when getting up in speed.
    As far as being 'Illegal', bullsh*t... this is the standard line of 'tyre fitters' chasing your dollars for a new tyre. (just follow the recommended instructions when installing them).
  18. Nah i'm not going to name and shame, theres no way to know why or as a result of what that the gasket failed. It wasn't in a good way when I took it apart, so meh. The service was disappointing, yes, but i'm on the other side of the city now.

    Sam, yep.. thats me. Haven't been on FF for many years though... the ute is falling apart, and if someone offered me $4k for i'd jump on it.
  19. Sorry Gord for hijacking your thread,

    Glad to hear you got it sorted with little fuss.

    This is not the case,

    There is infact an Australian Standard AS1973-1993. That covers the correct puncture repair method which states as follows

    Tyre repairs
    Punctures in tubeless tyres must only be repaired by fitting a vulcanized plug or patch from the inside of the tyre.

    In all cases the tyre must be removed from the rim to check for internal damage.

    Plugs that are fitted from the outside do not provide a permanent repair. Tyre repairs are only allowed in the tread area and are best performed by a reputable tyre dealer.

    The simple truth is these rope plugs are only meant to be a temporary repair until such time the tyre can be removed and repaired correctly. They are not meant to be a permanent repair and are prone to leaking and failure.

    A thorough inspection for internal damage that can be the result from the injury and or running under inflated for a period of time and is critical to reduce the risk of a tyre failure.