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To goo or not to goo?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by Sweed, Jun 11, 2016.

  1. G'day, I've got four gaskets to replace (on my GS550) and can't remember if gasket goo is required or not. (its been 10+ years ive had to change any...:unsure:)
    The gaskets in question are the stator cover, points cover, cam chain tensioner & oil sump... if so would loctite no4 be suitable ? (tis hard setting)
    My bible states no goo on the oil pan (the only reference to gasket goo), so I'm confused... Any help would be appreciated...:p

  2. If it is an oil containing joint, use gasket cement. I like the hardening shellac types. Yes, that Loctite Automotive No. 4 is exactly what I'd use.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Do the new gaskets have a grey film on them (colour may not be important) ?
    The Kawasaki gaskets I got a while back for much the same covers as yours had a gray film on both sides of them.
    This film was also on the ones that I removed from the engine and it was like a soft "gasket goo" layer that required cleaning off the part surfaces where it didn't come off cleanly with the gasket.
    I'm guessing that this film negates the need to goop up new gaskets before use.

    Where a goop is required, I'm with pwbike on the loctite/permatex stuff except for oil joints I prefer the non hardening version like
    Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Sealant Liquid - No. 3, 59mL - Supercheap Auto Australia

    Word of warning.... In some cases the thickness of the gasket is an important part of providing the necessary clearances for the parts contained...ie. don't make the mistake of just gooping up the 2 mating surfaces and forgetting about with the gasket.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Loctite agree with you, they suggest that their No. 3 non-hardening is correct in this aplication.

    I've typically used the non-hardening ones where movement is possible (steel rocker cover, etc with cork gaskets) and not on rigid castings with machined surfaces. But apparently I was wrong.
    • Like Like x 2
  5. I still prefer the non-hardening ones for one specific reason: if I've had to pull it apart once, I'll have to pull it apart again, and that hardening stuff can be real difficult to get off soft alloy surfaces if you're not careful. The non-hardening stuff, if applied properly, seals just as well and can be wiped off with some acetone and a rag.
    I've never seen either kind leak once installed as per directions though, so it's just a preference thing for me.
    • Like Like x 1
  6. thanks for all your input... only two are oil seals (tensioner & sump) with no film, so I'll goo those two with a non-hardening goo... (or should I do all four...?)
    now just need a few non raining days or I'll be dragging her into the lounge room... :p
  7. Vote 1, the lounge room.....helps to establish the ground rules with the ball n chain early.....
    • Funny Funny x 2
  8. Oh yeah, it'll get some rules established all right! :LOL:
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Funny Funny x 1
  9. lol... no problems with that... no :cat: here...