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Tip Of The Month ( Maintenance )

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by PNUCKLE, Mar 1, 2006.

  1. Hi there reader's. This is your Captain speaking. Every month i will be putting up a Tip Of The Month for Maintenance and Appearance.

    This will hopefully help some of you out and expand your knowledge about different parts of your machines.

    This month's will be SUSPENSION MYTHS BLOWN

    1. Preload only adjusts ride-height, it doesn't make ya suspension harder or softer. Only adjusting the spring tension will do such things.

    2. Don't assume that aftermarket suspension will work better than your standard unit, no matter how wizz bang the brand name is.

    3. The most important rule of suspension tinkering is NEVER adjust more than one thing at a time before testing your handy work out.

    That's my 2 cents
  2. Hey PNUT, what should I adjust first if my suspension is either too hard or too soft? Can I do it by myself or will I need a mate to help?
  3. Well Dave it depends on what you want done first?

    You can do it yourself if you wish but if your going to drop the forks ya might need a mate to help ya eye up your measurements.
  4. U a mechanic by trade Pnut?
  5. Let's say that the suspension at the rear is either too firm or too soft - I know I need to mess around with rebound and compression, but which do I start with?
  6. Nope but i've dismantled a thing or two and researched every bit of it before doing so.
  7. PNUT is the man
    i want to go to his next matience class lol
    i want to know more lol
  8. Well if

    Too hard : you'll need your c spanner from your tool kit first.
    Back off your spring two turns at a time.( TEST ) then a quarter turn at a time on the gas cylinder looking thing. You back off two at a time so you will notice a difference. One at a time and you wont.
    Too soft
    Tighten the spring with ya c spanner two turns at a time then the cylinder a quarter turn ( test )
  9. Cheers Deano! :grin:
  10. Your bike will be on stock standard setting tho.

    You will be able to turn the cylinder more than 360 deg either way. It dont stop just cos it's pointing at s or h ok
  11. If you get stuck or aren't quite sure Dave let me know and i'll work something out
  12. Thanks PNUT

    Looking forward to hearing some of your pearls of wisdom with Tip of the Month :grin:
  13. All good tips Mr PNUT :)

    Just another tip, if your not sure about any of the settings,
    the previous owner may have had a totally different riding style to you and therefore his/her setting wont be right for you. ( but what setting do you change 1st )

    The best thing to do is get the owners manual out, or ask at a bike shop and bring all the settings back to the FACTORY (std) settings and then ride the bike for a few days. To give you a start point on how the bike handles for you, then start to play with the individual settings

    I did that on the FJR and im still tweeking the settings

  14. Thanx for that Mr Technical :LOL: :LOL:

    Or ya could turn the lot back to none at all and build it back up to where it best suites you cos standard settings can be too hard for some people :cool:
  15. ride height adjustment is quite possible without touching the springs, and your comment is quite inaccurate for progressive springs as are commonly found in forks. Once you get close to binding the softer coils, the spring rate goes up - you are, in effect, changing the number of coils of the spring and changing the rates.

    Ride height should be the same for any rider, irrespective of preload - it is generally set by static sag of about a third of total travel. If you are heavier, you need more preload on the spring to account for the heavier starting mass, but the bikes tail will always end up at the same spot because the geometry doesn't change. The rate is dependant upon spring geometry and material and doesn't change with preload FOR A LINEAR RATE SPRING.
  16. PNUT, any chance of making these weekly dude?

    Looking forward to your next class too. Any ideas when it will be bro?
    I need some serious help.
  17. ??? I'm not sure what myth you're blowing away with your first statement.

    If you look at the Steve Brouggy suspension set up articles on bike point, I think they disagree with your statement.


    Sure adjusting preload changes ride height, but thats a SECONDARY effect. Preload should initially be set for static sag of your combined bike, gear and weight.

    Height is best adjusted using shims or equivalent - but note, it WILL change geometry and result in quicker/slower turning.

    SO what does preload actually mean??

    Changing preload changes the size of the INPUT at which the suspension first begins to respond. Or said in another way, WHEN the suspension will act to an input.

    If you tighten the spring, i.e. add preload, it will [in laymans terms] effectively make the suspension "stiffer" because a bigger bump or input is required before the suspension responds. Technically - the only way to truly make a spring stiffer is to install a spring with a higher spring rating/constant...

    Changing rebound and damping can give the appearance of stiffening or loosening suspension - but all that these things actually do is control the rate at which suspension will move to a given input. Therefore they do not technically change the spring's stiffness.

    Brouggy does a great job covering the basic ground work for understanding suspension.
  18. Fixed wanted to know about the rear suspension, to see what he had to do to make it firmer or softer. I mearly pointed out to him where to find it and what spanner and cylinder to turn not change any springs?
  19. The only thing that really makes suspension harder or softer is changing the spring rates is correct
  20. PNUT - not sure what your 11:37 and 11:39 posts mean for your original myth blowing tip???