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Tightening up front brake lever

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by heffa, Sep 19, 2009.

  1. Ok, a couple of weeks ago I installed new Hel braided lines front and back on my SV. Fully bled out the system before installing the new lines. After clearing out all the air possible, I tightened the bleed nipples with the brake lever at about half way. Then tapped all the lines to move the air bubbles and left her overnight.
    So next day I take it round the block to test. While the brakes are now far more responsive (needed to bleed the system badly), there is about a centimetre of slack in the brake lever and master cylinder action before the brake starts to bite. So I get out the hose and fluid again, and try tightening the bleed nipples with the brake lever nearly all the way out. Then tap the lines again and let it stand for about 6 hrs. Then go for another ride. No real difference.
    Next I tried bleeding out all air by wrapping a cable tie round the lever/handlebar (left it over night). Again no difference.
    The pads were starting to get a low, so this morning I picked up a new set. I cleaned out the callipers and pistons, pushed the pistons back and chucked in the new pads. Took the bike out for a bit of a ride to start wearing them in.
    Brakes are now responsive as hell, but I still have the same play in the lever and master cylinder.

    I've considered gluing a spacer in between the lever and master cylinder piston, but that's more a last resort.
    Any suggestions?

  2. Funny coincidence replaced my lines last weekend on the VTR1000.

    Have a close look at how the brake assy is mounted on the handlebars. On the VTR the line from the piston is sloping uphill towards the banjo connection/s.

    Air naturally collects here and no amount of bleeding will remove.

    I removed the brake assy and carefully tilted the unit (brake reservoir cap off), untill all the air came out.