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Tightening chain on suzuki across

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by karl2ltgc, Sep 23, 2007.

  1. Ok, so i just got my learners yesterday and did about 150ks today, went for a ride with some friends. Noticed the chain was uber loose with about 40mm or so free play so i had a go at tightening it as per the manual.

    Only thing is i got a bit excited and i think ive over tightened it an i cant seem to work out how to loosen it off(tried rolling forward an back then grabbing rear brake) as the nut at the back only allows for tightening.

    Also the axle nut when i tightened it all back up well the whole shebang was turning(ie stud an nut both turning together).

    I made sure both sides tightened equally and i marked the little notch with a black marker before i adjusted it just to make sure they both got done equally. Its probably moved about 1/2 notch back(still about the middle of the nothes) and I have exactly 10mm of play in the chain(top to bottom, measured with a ruler).

    Now the manual says 15-25mm play so is 10mm going to be a problem? Ive test ridden it an all was good. Before i was having problems shifting gears and seemed to end up between gears fairly often, but feels much tighter now, is this a chain slack related thing or is it some placebo effect?

    Another question, the bar that runs from the shifter to the box itself has a couple of nuts for adjustment, how should it be set up? There is a teeny bit of play in it should there be zero play???

    Cheers Karl

  2. I always trenble when people talk about "tightening" a chain. We adjust chain slack... ;-)

    A tight chain gets tighter as you ride and makes a loud whining noise, audible from the bike and on the roadside. You stress the chain as well as the countershaft and rear wheel bearings.

    A "loose" chain does not really affect the bike's performance, or gearchanging, or anything else. It is also very important to rotate the wheel for at least one full run of the chain (maybe 4 wheel revolutions) to check for tight spots in the chain. The chain should then only ever be adjusted so that the tightest spot has the recommended slack.

    Not at all. You should loosen the adjusters by a complete turn or two, make sure the axle nut is also loose and then push the wheel back towards the front of the bike. You might need to thunp the tyre with your hand to make it move back. Push it back further than it needs and then gently screw the adjusters, checking the slack as mentioned above.

    Before you screw in the adjusters, though, retighten the axle nut somewhat so that there is a little resistance for the adjuster bolts to work against. In other words, make sure that the hub is not free to move around in the axle/swing arm area.

    That's not unusual, either. Just hold the axle on the other end to stop it from turning.

    Way, way, way too tight! The chain is adjusted to have the correct amount of slack, not tightness. I am not playing with terminology, just trying to give you the correct methodology.

    All in the mind, I'm afraid. :) There is no correlation between gearchanging and chain slack.

    That adjuster is for lever height - it determines at just what point the lever is in relation to your foot. The height adjustment has no effect on the slop in the pivot mechanism.

    Don't feel too bad - after many years practice I still occasionally get a chain adjustment wrong and have to back it off.


    Trevor G
  3. Muchos gracios!

    Thats gota be the best reply to any question ever. Thanks alot.

    Now I'm off to the garage.
  4. I'm not sure I agree that chain tension doesn't have an effect on gear-changing. I've always found changing on a loose or poorly lubricated chain is less crisp than a perfectly tensioned and lubricated chain.

    Probably the most important thing is finding the tightest point in the chain and tensioning there. I never understood why there is a tightest point, but anyway... This is a little difficult on an Across since there is no center stand, but it is important nonetheless. I used to wheel mine back and forwards, both before and after tensioning.

    Also never let the chain get too loose. It isn't fun throwing a chain. I've had it happen twice in my years of riding. On the one occasion it happened on the Across it actually smashed some pin that is required for the clutch to work and also cracked a casing. I wasn't happy, though it could have been worse I suppose.
    The other time wasn't a loose chain, but somehow I tore a sprocket tooth off, which then popped the chain off.

    One thing worth considering is getting an automatic chain lubrication system like the Scottoiler. They keep the chain well lubricated and you rarely have to tension as wear is kept to a minimum.
  5. Since the gearchange occurs entirely independantly and ahead of the chain final drive it can NOT be affected by a loose chain.

    If you mean that the backlash or slop in the drive system is affected by a loose chain - eg, when you back off and accelerate - then I could agree with you there.


    Trevor G