Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

tick tick noise with new rear sprocket?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Glennb, May 21, 2006.

  1. Hi all I just put a new larger (47 tooth) rear sprocket on my GPX all went well putting her back together . I re alligned the rear wheel using the string method, but now I have a tick tick noise coming from my front spocket and the chain is jumping around as well.
    could I have done something wrong? or do I need to put on a new front sprocket as well ( I know its recomended but this one looks ok)?

  2. Sounds to me like there's a 'tight' spot in the chain and the increased diameter of the sprocket is showing it up. Usual wisdom is to replace both sprockets at the same time as the chain (if you can afford it, that is :shock: )
  3. Cheers Paul, been a bit tight with the money in the last 6mths so Ive been doing things on the tight ( I new it would bite me on the bum) chains not that old so I might give it a good clean with kero and get a new front sprocket.
  4. Whats the string method ?

    I tightened my chain this afternoon and aligned it using vernier calipers with a digital mircometer. I rode it for a while to feel any wobbles and strange sounds, it seemed okay.

    I think i need a new chain though, the arrows are just on the red area on the sticker with Jap writing on it. My japanese is way below average :p, my guess its a warning to change.

    How many kays anyway till you need to replace the chain ???
  5. A too tight chain wil go tick-tick as mentioned. Thats it trying to snap.

    Check you have adjusted at the tightest point.
    If the loosest point is then way too loose its new chain time. If it has been ticking due to too tight the chain will not be as healthy anymore and will probably deteriorate quicker.
  6. Yes I forgot about that, adjusting at the tightest point. Hopefully I can loosen it up a bit as the chain is only 4mths old. Dont know how it got tight spots in it as I oil it regularly.
  7. What did you use as your reference poitn. i.e. what were you measureing from
  8. a 4 month old chain should be ok. They wear faster if you use old sprockets so change your front one now and enjoy long chain life.

    The string method is good for wheel alignment but not neccesarily chain alignment. Check using the marks on your swingarm as well, they must be even or your rear sprocket and chain will not line up with your front sprocket. To put it another way, the marks on your swingarm are equidistant from the swing arm pivot and are there to enable you to position your rear axle parrallel to the output shaft of your gearbox. This is what you must line your rear axle up to (and subsequently your rear sprocket).

    The tolerances allowed when building mass production road bikes can see the wheels being up to 10mm either side of the centreline of the bike. This is not enough to upset the dynamics of the cycle but can make using the string method of wheel alignment a little hit and miss. Rather than moving the rear axle it may be a better solution to shim the swingarm or wheels slightly to one side or the other. Then the rear axle stays perpendicular to the centreline of the cycle and parrallel to the output shaft of the gearbox.

    Sorry if this is a little hard to get your head around, it's good to know people are happy to do thier own work. Enjoy.
  9. The problem with counting on the swingarm marks is that they are rarely 100% right.

    My last bike was 1/2 a graduation out.

    They are pretty hit and miss in getting it right at the factory and then a bit of a bump to the swingarm puts them out further.

    If anyone has some good tips in this department I'd be keen to know.

    A straight edge on the sprocket might help.

    But as stated, square is more important then aligned, as the cush mechanism will have enough float to allow for a few mm out of alignment.
  10. I have not tried it myself (shaft drive on my bikes). but I read on another forum about using one of those laser levels you can get at bunnings for $99. It seems a bunch simpler that a piece of string, and accurate enough for the chain itself.
  11. thanks for that, after reading this a few times I think i understand :? but I did notice to have my wheel alligned the swing arm markings are out buy half a notch, and the ticking noise is more noisy than when the swing arm marks are even.
    So when I put my new front sprocket on, would it be ok to have the wheel a touch out of aligment to have the sprockets and chain in aligment together?
  12. would it be possible that your chain is too tight ?
  13. the tightes point seems to be around 20mm in play I would of thought that would of been enough
  14. have a look down the line of the chain, its not noticeabley kinked just off the rear sprocket?

    how often does it click? once per revolution of the chain?

    Does it click if you have the rear wheel off the ground (bike in neutral) and spin it by hand?
    Thats the first thing i would be doing. Identify what clicks.
  15. Thanks guys , put a new front sprocket on today and just re-alligned the wheel and brought the wheel in a little more and its not so much of a ticking noise now. It has sofened and the looks of things the noise I have now is just the chain slaping against the front sprocket, which i guess is normal and maybe slightly loader cos of the greater angle the chain connects due to the larger rear sprocket.